Doc Humphries Vibration Damper

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

I ordered my damper last Wednesday and had it Friday. I love fast service. I watched the install video but actually doing it was easier. The hardest part was getting all the tupperware off, and even that's not all that hard. I then took my '14 RT-S out for a test ride on I-70. Earlier I could always know when I was going 75 mph, I'd get that annoying rumbling. But yesterday I found myself riding along at 82 and no vibration. I could tell a difference at slower speeds too. With this damper and Lamonster's wheel balancers my RT-S rides as smooth as our car. The only vibration I feel now is the engine, and that's minimal.
Great product, well worth the money. Every RT would benefit from this addition.
Buckeye Chuck

[Bob Denman]

Isn't it great when a product does exactly what it says that it will do?

[Ramg66]

Nice, I'm going to look into it.

[Chupaca]

's for the review. Always nice to have reviews of the products sold here for reference for new shoppers and old pros as well....

[Ryan12]

I put mine on yesterday 6-1-17 and the little vibration gremlin went away. This a must on these. Made a BIG difference on my 2012 RTS.

The Farkle im dredding is the sparkplug and wire change. I cant seem to find a good video on this one.

[007james]

I put mine on yesterday 6-1-17 and the little vibration gremlin went away. This a must on these. Made a BIG difference on my 2012 RTS.

The Farkle im dredding is the sparkplug and wire change. I cant seem to find a good video on this one.

For your information, I had my Spark Plugs changed by a Dealer along with new Wires at 32,000 miles on my 2012 RT. I looked at the old ones removed, and they looked almost new! They were not burnt at all, and might have went another 30,000 miles. But, I changed them any way. The OEMs must have been Iridium.

[dukeBlue48]

I had mine installed while at Doc's place getting a wheel chair carrier mounted. Rode home over 260 miles. Big difference on the interstate and felt it also around town at lower speeds. My 2015 RTL is so much smoother at those "highway" speeds. Thanks very much doc for your fine products!

[wrb3004]

About 2 weeks ago I had my Spyder at the dealer for various things one of those being installing a new rear tire (General Altimax Rt43). When I got it home I noticed more vibration than usual. I hardly noticed any before. I installed Doc's vibration damper and it seemed to make it worse. When I get around 50 mph it really growls when in 5th gear but seems to stop when I shift into 6th. It seems to growl/vibrate at different intervals. I also notice a slight grinding noise when coming to a stop like the belt is too tight. At least that is what it seems like to me. My Victory Vision will make a similiar noise if the belt is too tight like the belt is grinding on the pulley. I wonder if anyone else has had the same situation.

I use the 10# method to check and set the tension on my Victory. Applying 10# of pressure should give me around 1.25" of slack in the belt. Does the Spyder have a spec for this method? I need to buy a Krikit to check the tension that way. I have read many posts where the tension should be around 220# I think. I need to re-read some of these posts.

Any insight would be appreciated. After the tire replacement I didn't ride it much before installing the tensioner so I may take it off to see if there is a difference. Thanks.

[Roadster Renovations]

About 2 weeks ago I had my Spyder at the dealer for various things one of those being installing a new rear tire (General Altimax Rt43). When I got it home I noticed more vibration than usual. I hardly noticed any before. I installed Doc's vibration damper and it seemed to make it worse. When I get around 50 mph it really growls when in 5th gear but seems to stop when I shift into 6th. It seems to growl/vibrate at different intervals. I also notice a slight grinding noise when coming to a stop like the belt is too tight. At least that is what it seems like to me. My Victory Vision will make a similiar noise if the belt is too tight like the belt is grinding on the pulley. I wonder if anyone else has had the same situation.

I use the 10# method to check and set the tension on my Victory. Applying 10# of pressure should give me around 1.25" of slack in the belt. Does the Spyder have a spec for this method? I need to buy a Krikit to check the tension that way. I have read many posts where the tension should be around 220# I think. I need to re-read some of these posts.

Any insight would be appreciated. After the tire replacement I didn't ride it much before installing the tensioner so I may take it off to see if there is a difference. Thanks.

Sorry you are having trouble. From what you are saying it sounds like the problem occurred after the tire was installed. The way of tire removal I have always done does not require belt adjustment. You might look at the tracking and see if it is different than before the tire was done. That would be a clear indication that it has been changed. I use 2 Crickets to set and check my belts tension. The wheel off the ground one I usually set around 90-100 foot lbs. This usually gives about 180 foot lbs on the ground. You should check the top middle of the belt in any case (just behind the damper). When checking the belt make sure you have stopped from going forward. Any backing up at all will give inaccurate results. Here is a video that explains how I do it.
Since we have sold hundreds of the vibration dampers we have not had anyone say that it made the vibration worse. One thing you should check is to make sure the orientation of the black bracket is straight in relationship to the belt. If that is off the pulley can still be centered on the belt, but will be at an angle. This will cause it to "skip" across the belt as it turns. We have had a couple of ryders to do that.



The adjustment is using the B.A.A.T.S system, but the basic concept is what you need. Crickets can be purchased from Baja Ron or Amazon.

[wrb3004]

Sorry you are having trouble. From what you are saying it sounds like the problem occurred after the tire was installed. The way of tire removal I have always done does not require belt adjustment. You might look at the tracking and see if it is different than before the tire was done. That would be a clear indication that it has been changed. I use 2 Crickets to set and check my belts tension. The wheel off the ground one I usually set around 90-100 foot lbs. This usually gives about 180 foot lbs on the ground. You should check the top middle of the belt in any case (just behind the damper). When checking the belt make sure you have stopped from going forward. Any backing up at all will give inaccurate results. Here is a video that explains how I do it.
Since we have sold hundreds of the vibration dampers we have not had anyone say that it made the vibration worse. One thing you should check is to make sure the orientation of the black bracket is straight in relationship to the belt. If that is off the pulley can still be centered on the belt, but will be at an angle. This will cause it to "skip" across the belt as it turns. We have had a couple of ryders to do that.



The adjustment is using the B.A.A.T.S system, but the basic concept is what you need. Crickets can be purchased from Baja Ron or Amazon.

Thanks Doc. I will check the alignment of the bracket and pulley and order a Krikit to check the tension. To me it feels too tight. The alignment of the belt looks good.

A question I have is the tension setting. I have read many posts where it should be around 220#(min-202#, spec-236#, max-270#). You are saying 90-100#. Im a little confused about that.

[Navydad]

I ordered mine Wednesday evening and got it Saturday. I installed it today, quick and easy and I even took extra time to check certain things. I removed the necessary tupperware and then took a short ride. I then checked the belt alignment and found the belt was running dead center of the front pulley and 2.5 mm off the flange on the rear. Good enough for me. I installed the gadget according to the instructions and then took a short ride before double checking the tensioner alignment and belt tension. According to my Kricket gauge my tension is at 215 wheel on ground and as I stated before the belt alignment is good. We have some very nice test highways around here with speeds varying from 55 to 70 and some nice long inclines to go with them. My belt vibrations started at 60 and last to almost 75 with the worst being in the 65 to 70 range. I took a nice long test run and found my bike very smooth at 60 and 65 on level road and the long inclines. I still get a slight "rumble" around 70, but even at that it is 90% better than it was. I brought the bike home, installed the tupperware, and marked myself down as another satisfied customer.

[Roadster Renovations]

Thanks Doc. I will check the alignment of the bracket and pulley and order a Krikit to check the tension. To me it feels too tight. The alignment of the belt looks good.

A question I have is the tension setting. I have read many posts where it should be around 220#(min-202#, spec-236#, max-270#). You are saying 90-100#. Im a little confused about that.

The 90-100 lbs is up in the air with the wheel off the ground. The on the ground reading usually adds 90-100 lbs of tension.
I will say this; with the damper on you can get away with lower tension and still not have vibration. Play around with it to get it the way you like it...