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  1. #1
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    Default I can't be the only one......

    In adding some farkles to the F3T this week, I had the side panels off. Today I'm putting them back on and the two front screws that go into a brass threaded piece that is embedded in the plastic begins to spin as I get 3-4 threads in. Luckily I got the screw out but the brass insert still spins. I know this happens on inserts like this on plastic, but how do they address this on this particular bike?
    Insert will not come out so I might J B weld it. Only thing I see left to do is drill it on out and put a longer screw in with a lock nut on the inside?
    Help!
    Buckskin
    2016 F3T , Pearl White

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Copperman's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Buckskin View Post
    In adding some farkles to the F3T this week, I had the side panels off. Today I'm putting them back on and the two front screws that go into a brass threaded piece that is embedded in the plastic begins to spin as I get 3-4 threads in. Luckily I got the screw out but the brass insert still spins. I know this happens on inserts like this on plastic, but how do they address this on this particular bike?
    Insert will not come out so I might J B weld it. Only thing I see left to do is drill it on out and put a longer screw in with a lock nut on the inside?
    Help!
    Buckskin

    Lucky for you you got the screw out. That has happened to my wife's F3L and Harvey Clark (Spyderpops) repaired it at Spyderfest by using JB Weld. Once you put it in, let it set up for 48 hours before you tighten it real hard. The hardest part was getting it out with the screw still in and you didn't even have to do that.
    2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.
    2020 RT Limited , Chalk

  3. #3
    Active Member SpyderNeil's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Buckskin View Post
    In adding some farkles to the F3T this week, I had the side panels off. Today I'm putting them back on and the two front screws that go into a brass threaded piece that is embedded in the plastic begins to spin as I get 3-4 threads in. Luckily I got the screw out but the brass insert still spins. I know this happens on inserts like this on plastic, but how do they address this on this particular bike?
    Insert will not come out so I might J B weld it. Only thing I see left to do is drill it on out and put a longer screw in with a lock nut on the inside?
    Help!
    Buckskin
    Be sure to clean the threads on the screws of the Loctite.

    Neil
    2020 Harley Davidson Tri Glide Ultra
    2017 F3-T SE6 White / BRP Backrest / Nuvi 58 LM / Polaris Spring Spacers / CALSCI 22" Shield
    2016 RTE6 , Black

  4. #4
    Active Member Pat Clark's Avatar
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    Default Had the same problem on my new F3T

    Same issue on my new bike. Getting the front two screws to align seems a lot harder than it should be. Even being careful it's a PITA. I'll figure something out. The right panel has to come off semi-regular to change the oil which I'll do myself. Watching to see what others solutions are.
    Pat

  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default BRP & OVER-LOCK-TITEING

    You aren't the first one to report this issue ............ It appears in the past year or two BRP has been extremely generous with the LOK-TITE and is causing all sorts of damage ...... Dealers are braking things and not telling the owners ..... themwhen they bring the Spyders back they are being told THEY -the OWNERS did it ............... maybe we should ask the President at Homecoming to FIX THE ISSUE ....................yea right ...... Mike

  6. #6
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    Default

    Well, there is little comfort in knowing i'm not alone😅. But no solutions?? How Spyderpops repaired that is a mystery as this brass insert has to come out so one can put some JB weld on to hold it. This is not coming out. It just spins around. I put the screw in a few threads and use it to tug on to remove the brass insert? Not good. The fit on the brass insert in the plastic is very tight and if I did get it out and put some JB weld on it, it would squish it all out as I pressed it in. So one idea is to use a Well Nut. I would have to drill out the brass insert to allow the Well Nut to press in that hole. The Well Nut is rubber with a flange on the face and threads on the inside that fit the screw. As one tightens up on the Well Nut it creates a donut on the back side and holds the screw tight. It's like a blind nut. I will have to take the screw to hardware store and get right size Well Nut and then see what size drill to open up the brass insert and try that out. One nice thing about Well Nuts is that over time if they wear out you can just pull it out and replace it with a new fresh one. Now that I think of it, drilling out the brass insert may not be easy, as the brass insert will spin with the drill..........
    Buckskin

    Quote Originally Posted by Copperman View Post
    Lucky for you you got the screw out. That has happened to my wife's F3L and Harvey Clark (Spyderpops) repaired it at Spyderfest by using JB Weld. Once you put it in, let it set up for 48 hours before you tighten it real hard. The hardest part was getting it out with the screw still in and you didn't even have to do that.
    2016 F3T , Pearl White

  7. #7
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    Default

    Yes, that is an old Indian trick........

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    You aren't the first one to report this issue ............ It appears in the past year or two BRP has been extremely generous with the LOK-TITE and is causing all sorts of damage ...... Dealers are braking things and not telling the owners ..... themwhen they bring the Spyders back they are being told THEY -the OWNERS did it ............... maybe we should ask the President at Homecoming to FIX THE ISSUE ....................yea right ...... Mike
    2016 F3T , Pearl White

  8. #8
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    Default

    Well, I came up with a fix for those with the spinning brass threaded insert. It's a little delicate, but it works. I went to Ace Hardware where they have a whole section on little fasteners and stuff. I picked up some roll pins/tension pins. The ones I got were 1/16"x1/2". I use a 1/16 drill bit and made a mark on the drill with red marker pin. I held the drill up to the plastic and the brass insert and marked onto drill so I would not drill into the threads. Very slowly I began to drill into the plastic and on into the brass insert, checking to make sure I had not got to close to the threads. You can see when the brass shavings are coming out. Drill just enough to get into the insert and stop.
    Then I took the roll pin and tapped it in to the insert where it stopped and there it was. A pinned insert and no longer spinning.
    Pictures below.
    Buckskin

    IMG_0403.jpgIMG_0404.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Clark View Post
    Same issue on my new bike. Getting the front two screws to align seems a lot harder than it should be. Even being careful it's a PITA. I'll figure something out. The right panel has to come off semi-regular to change the oil which I'll do myself. Watching to see what others solutions are.
    Pat
    2016 F3T , Pearl White

  9. #9
    Active Member johnwinslow's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    You aren't the first one to report this issue ............ It appears in the past year or two BRP has been extremely generous with the LOK-TITE and is causing all sorts of damage ...... Dealers are braking things and not telling the owners ..... themwhen they bring the Spyders back they are being told THEY -the OWNERS did it ............... maybe we should ask the President at Homecoming to FIX THE ISSUE ....................yea right ...... Mike
    I wonder if they will have a line at the complaint dept.
    ?

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