Was riding to work this morning and half way through the ride when I switched to 5th gear I got an E on the screen and then it keep saying check engine / check transmission. I pulled over, turned off the bike and turned it on and all went clear so I started riding. I went again into 5th gear and same thing, at this time I realized it was when I was getting to 5th gear it was getting the error. The bike was running and all just getting that error. I kept riding and then it started happening in 4th gear. I almost got to work and then it wouldn't get out of first gear until i pushed the up shift hard (SE5) and then if i let off the accelerator it went into E/N.
I don't like the symptoms it's presenting and I hope it's not a big big burden on my head.
When I did the oil change /exhaust replacement, I got the check transmission light once but it went again. Read on the forums it happens if you do an oil change.
if not a glitch or soft shifting it tends to be the position sensor. You could check the wiring which is in the area of the oil filters to make sure all connections are good/tight and not damaged. Or take it to the dealer who may find it faulty and replace it..
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
I just went to the bike and try to "force" the issue, and I took it up to 5th gear in the parking lot and no go. All good. I'll see hopefully when I'm going hope the issue comes up so that I can get a code. I've been riding for a few days now and nothing and until today.
Could it be me riding the bike "hard" and changing the gears at 4-5k rpm could have caused the issue.
If it's not a failing or faulty gear position sensor, then it's probably more likely to be attributable to being too gentle & not positive enough on your gear changes than it is to be due to 'riding hard'?!?
I'd suggest checking carefully that you haven't dislodged the wires or covered the position sensor with oil spill first, then give it another go, making sure that you are firm & direct about EVERY gear change rather than trying to be gentle or slow in your actions or tentatively trying to change gears with the revs too low. If the error 'E' keeps appearing, it's almost certainky gonna be a visit to the dealer job, & quite likely to need a new Gear Position Sensor, or at least cleaning up & drying out the one you've got - altho that seems to be a temporary fix at best!
Sorry, but these sensors in particular do tend to get a little tired over time...
I just went to the bike and try to "force" the issue, and I took it up to 5th gear in the parking lot and no go. All good. I'll see hopefully when I'm going hope the issue comes up so that I can get a code. I've been riding for a few days now and nothing and until today.
Could it be me riding the bike "hard" and changing the gears at 4-5k rpm could have caused the issue.
It's a 2009 SE5 GS.
Now I'm paranoid.
The recommended shift points for a 998 engine are 5000 - 5500. That is not riding the Spyder hard.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
I just went to the bike and try to "force" the issue, and I took it up to 5th gear in the parking lot and no go. All good. I'll see hopefully when I'm going hope the issue comes up so that I can get a code. I've been riding for a few days now and nothing and until today.
Could it be me riding the bike "hard" and changing the gears at 4-5k rpm could have caused the issue.
It's a 2009 SE5 GS.
Now I'm paranoid.
The symptoms point to a failing gear position sensor. It will likely need to changed out and the new one recalibrated.
Shifting up the rpm range is 4,500 to 9,000 rpm. There is no way that you should have been able to shift to 5th gear in a parking lot. Unless it's a really big parking lot.
The symptoms point to a failing gear position sensor. It will likely need to changed out and the new one recalibrated.
Shifting up the rpm range is 4,500 to 9,000 rpm. There is no way that you should have been able to shift to 5th gear in a parking lot. Unless it's a really big parking lot.
Yup! That thought crossed my mind also. Maybe to much very low rpm shifting. Fifth gear is for 65 + mph. Around town, first or second may be sufficient. Drove the Hana Hwy on Maui (50 plus miles) in first gear. Speed mostly under 25.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
The symptoms point to a failing gear position sensor. It will likely need to changed out and the new one recalibrated.
Shifting up the rpm range is 4,500 to 9,000 rpm. There is no way that you should have been able to shift to 5th gear in a parking lot. Unless it's a really big parking lot.
I was trying to just simulate the issue so I was shiffting at 3-4k and it was a half a mile stretch.
Also reading the forums it says it could also be "ground strap is missing"
I'll let you guys know once I go home what's the deal. How much would this cost if I had to go to the dealer?
It's not a big deal changing the Gear Position Sensor and Althought the manual CLAIMS you need a re-boot via BUDS ...you DON"T .....been there done that ....... Mike .......... I think the part is about $135.00 +/-
Agree with Mike it's not a biggie to get it replaced.
I did try just replacing it without getting the BUD's reset done but it still played up so got the dealers to do a reset as well.
I did make me wonder if sometimes you could just get away with doing the BUD's reset without changing the sensor but for how much it costs its not worth the hassle of finding out - particularly if like me your 3 hours ride from the dealer.
Update: Got gas after work and rode it halfway home no problem was shifting at 5 K RPM, was in traffic half the time so when the traffic let up I went to change and from third to fourth it happened again. N and R light went going crazy and check engine and transmission. I just kept riding and then about 2-3 miles it went from E to the actual gear it was in 5th. Then the check engine light just stayed on till home.
Question: Can I still keep riding, or do I need to park the bike.
Question: Can I order the part and get it done myself or do I need to go to the stealers for this?
Before this issue happened, I had gotten on the interstate and accelerated fast and shifted up rapidly..... could any of these be an issue? Lol just trying to figure out if it was something I might have done?
Agree with Mike it's not a biggie to get it replaced.
I did try just replacing it without getting the BUD's reset done but it still played up so got the dealers to do a reset as well.
I did make me wonder if sometimes you could just get away with doing the BUD's reset without changing the sensor but for how much it costs its not worth the hassle of finding out - particularly if like me your 3 hours ride from the dealer.
A BUDS re-set won't fix a BAD sensor...... you need to change the part ...... and mine didn't need to be re-set ..... Maybe I just lucked out ...... But others her have changed all their BRAKE fluid and according to the MANUAL ....a BUDS re-set is needed ....However they didn't and it was OK ...... Mike
A BUDS re-set won't fix a BAD sensor...... you need to change the part ...... and mine didn't need to be re-set ..... Maybe I just lucked out ...... But others her have changed all their BRAKE fluid and according to the MANUAL ....a BUDS re-set is needed ....However they didn't and it was OK ...... Mike
Yes if the sensor is knackered then a reset isn't going to sort it but I do wonder if sometimes there's just a one-off error reported and BUDs remembers it and keeps reporting there's a problem.
I definitely had a problem with my sensor as it got worse and worse as I rode - initially 5th gear error but then spreading throughout the gears until it wasn't able to determine any gear properly and kept coming up with E.
Remembering what you'd said before about not needing the reset I decided to put it to the test.
I went to the dealers and we just swapped the sensor without doing the BUDs reset (got a good dealers so they don't mind me mucking around:-)).
Took it out for a test ride but it displayed all the same problems as before i.e. wrong gears displayed and then the E would appear. It was as if we hadn't done anything.
They then did a BUDs reset without touching anything else. Next test ride and it worked perfectly.
Hence why I wonder if in some cases something (e.g. several very rapid gear changes) may upset the sensor and BUDs and then BUDs will not let it go.
In other cases the sensors knackered but because BUD's not got too upset about it at that stage you can get away without a reset.
With the brake fluid I hadn't even noticed there was a requirement in the manual to reset BUDs - changed mine without bothering:-)
Last edited by PistonBlown; 05-19-2017 at 12:24 AM.
Yes if the sensor is knackered then a reset isn't going to sort it but I do wonder if sometimes there's just a one-off error reported and BUDs remembers it and keeps reporting there's a problem.
I definitely had a problem with my sensor as it got worse and worse as I rode - initially 5th gear error but then spreading throughout the gears until it wasn't able to determine any gear properly and kept coming up with E.
Remembering what you'd said before about not needing the reset I decided to put it to the test.
I went to the dealers and we just swapped the sensor without doing the BUDs reset (got a good dealers so they don't mind me mucking around:-)).
Took it out for a test ride but it displayed all the same problems as before i.e. wrong gears displayed and then the E would appear. It was as if we hadn't done anything.
They then did a BUDs reset without touching anything else. Next test ride and it worked perfectly.
Hence why I wonder if in some cases something (e.g. several very rapid gear changes) may upset the sensor and BUDs and then BUDs will not let it go.
In other cases the sensors knackered but because BUD's not got too upset about it at that stage you can get away without a reset.
With the brake fluid I hadn't even noticed there was a requirement in the manual to reset BUDs - changed mine without bothering:-)
I hear what your saying ..... but it also sounds like there was no time given for the computers to re-set themselves .... Things can be cleared by just removing the key and waiting 5 minutes !!! .... or dis-connecting the battery..... I'm not saying yours wasn't necessary , just that mine wasn't ....... Mike
The procedure to initialize a new Gear Position Sensor is 4 pages long. Should take 10 to 15 minutes. It is a matter of teaching the ECM what the output of the sensor is in each gear. Sure it's possible that new sensor will have the same calibration as the old sensor. Just do it right and do the calibration when a new sensor is installed.
So I took the bike out yesterday night when I got home. It sat for about 3 hours and then we went to the hospital (wife's uncle had an open heart surgery). No signs reported back / forth. I mean I was changing gears at 5 K rpm and doing it slowly and carefully (very scared on every change) but there were no signs.
I didn't ride the bike to work today. Thinking of going tomorrow to get the panels installed in the morning so I'm going to let you guys know.
So as of now what should I do. Should I just ride it till the problem re-appears or call dealership for a price quote?
Update: called the dealer. Like Mike said, part is 135$. Spoke to the service department, they want me to drop the bike off and then they will let me know the price. Which I think is a load of crap... why can't they just let me know how much would it cost.
Bite the bullet and order the paddle shifter. That is the problem, and it will only get worse. Shifting at whatever RPM has nothing to do with your issue.
Bite the bullet and order the paddle shifter. That is the problem, and it will only get worse. Shifting at whatever RPM has nothing to do with your issue.
Paddle shifter??? What.
We been talking about the gear position sensor.... why would the paddle shifter be an issue and cause check engine / check transmission light?
We been talking about the gear position sensor.... why would the paddle shifter be an issue and cause check engine / check transmission light?
Could be wrong but possibly kep-up maybe was thinking you have an SE (the semi-auto) so was referring to the controller on the handlebars for that.
Firstly the sensor thing is annoying but isn't going to stop you riding the Spyder so there is no need to rush this repair. Swapping the gear sensor was an easy job, particularly if your doing a service at the same time because you need to remove the same panels.
So you could wait until you need a service and get the dealer to do both at the same time. Alternatively if you do your own servicing you could get the part, fit it when you next do a service - if you do find it needs a BUDs reset afterwards just go along to your dealers for that. It took my dealer about a minute to do the reset.
Normally I do my own servicing but because this needed doing I got the dealer to do the service and the sensor at the same time as I couldn't be bothered to muck about. It cost me for both service and sensor, labour and parts, NZ$400 which at todays exchange rate is US$277.
Could be wrong but possibly kep-up maybe was thinking you have an SE (the semi-auto) so was referring to the controller on the handlebars for that.
Firstly the sensor thing is annoying but isn't going to stop you riding the Spyder so there is no need to rush this repair. Swapping the gear sensor was an easy job, particularly if your doing a service at the same time because you need to remove the same panels.
So you could wait until you need a service and get the dealer to do both at the same time. Alternatively if you do your own servicing you could get the part, fit it when you next do a service - if you do find it needs a BUDs reset afterwards just go along to your dealers for that. It took my dealer about a minute to do the reset.
Normally I do my own servicing but because this needed doing I got the dealer to do the service and the sensor at the same time as I couldn't be bothered to muck about. It cost me for both service and sensor, labour and parts, NZ$400 which at todays exchange rate is US$277.
The OP stated near the end of the first paragraph of his first post; "(SE5)".
Check Engine/Check Transmission
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if not a glitch or soft shifting it tends to be the position sensor. You could check the wiring which is in the area of the oil filters to make sure all connections are good/tight and not damaged. Or take it to the dealer who may find it faulty and replace it..
Originally Posted by tecnodog7
.......... I think the part is about $135.00 +/-
