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Active Member
Bajaron sway bar links.
Having my ST-S laser aligned on Monday regarding the left hand curve issue.
He was asking some questions about the issue and mentioned Bajaron's sway bar and links, which I told him that I had already installed.
He then asked about the "tightness" of the ball joint connections in the links and wanted to know if they were all firm or loose. He showed me a box of several links he had in stock and found that there were various degrees of tightness from one end to the other. He had attempted to find out if this may have any effect on the steering/handling, but had not received any answer yet.
For anyone who has installed these parts themselves, have you noticed whether this has affected the bike control/stability in any way?
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The metal links are stiffer, but I couldn't feel any difference. Just the peace of mind getting rid of the plastic ones.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Originally Posted by ARNIE R
Having my ST-S laser aligned on Monday regarding the left hand curve issue.
He was asking some questions about the issue and mentioned Bajaron's sway bar and links, which I told him that I had already installed.
He then asked about the "tightness" of the ball joint connections in the links and wanted to know if they were all firm or loose. He showed me a box of several links he had in stock and found that there were various degrees of tightness from one end to the other. He had attempted to find out if this may have any effect on the steering/handling, but had not received any answer yet.
For anyone who has installed these parts themselves, have you noticed whether this has affected the bike control/stability in any way?
i put the Bajaron sway bar on and then had a laser alignment on my F3T and it made a HUGE difference!
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Active Member
He was referring to the round sections (balls?) of the links that are inserted into the ends of the link where the bolt passes thru them. Some of the balls were tight, but not binding, and some were very free moving and could very easily be turned without effort. He was expressing an idea, but not an opinion.
As long as no one has had any issues with this, I am good.
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There you have it....
from the man who knows joints...(hiem joints that is)
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Current Ride
2015 RT-S SM6 Cocaine
Pearl White
Diamond R Web Armrests
Shorty Windshield
Previous Ride
2012 RT SM5 The Beast
Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Yeah, I had a loose Helm joint recently, Arnie .......it manifested itself as a clicking when the suspension compressed. I found no change to handling/steering in any way. I have replaced the Baja with a stock Spyder joint temporarily until I receive a new one from Ron (on the way). I have noticed no handling change using this temporary setup either.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Originally Posted by ARNIE R
He was referring to the round sections (balls?) of the links that are inserted into the ends of the link where the bolt passes thru them. Some of the balls were tight, but not binding, and some were very free moving and could very easily be turned without effort. He was expressing an idea, but not an opinion.
As long as no one has had any issues with this, I am good.
My balls are loose but I do get some binding at times. (quick adjustment and there fine) (I am expressing an opinion) Ron's Hiem links are ok with me.
Chris
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Yes
And they are metal( along with Ron's anti-sway bar. How BRP could use plastic in critical suspension parts is a.
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by BajaRon
This person has not contacted me. But I am more than happy to talk to him.
These ball joints have a tolerance range of about 2 thousandths of an inch. But this is enough to give varying amounts of friction in the ball swivel. The stress on these ball joints is tremendous. Even if you could not budge them with your hands it would make no difference in the way the bar, links, suspension functioned. The relatively small amount of resistance even the stiffest of these ball joints exerts against the sway bar is meaningless.
I would love to reduce this tolerance variance so that every ball joint had the exact same friction coefficient. But to do so requires a completely different, much more expensive manufacturing process. It would add about $30 (My Cost) to the link set and would not improve function or safety at all. I have determined that though these ball joints do not come out as uniform as I would like, it just is not worth the additional cost.
By the way. Not a single one of these Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links has ever failed. This includes accidents where one or both links suffered enough impact to significantly gouge the aluminum.
You are good to go!
Thank you, Sir. I kinda figured that there was not an issue. I had only recently installed the parts a few weeks back and commented on how much better the ride and handling had become and that left turning issue was present before and after. That is why I wanted them to look at the alignment since I know that it doesn't take much of a misalignment to throw things off, especially on a machine that tends to be twitchy in the first place.
Really appreciate the response. 🤓
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Very Active Member
Thou it's not on the installation papers, I greased my new heim joints before I put them on. Took some time but gives me peace of mind.
AKA Jud Smales, Four Year Spyder Ryder!
"Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati"
The Critter 2016 RT-S
Cat Bypass from Lamonster
BajaRon Sway Bar
Hella dual horns with relay
BRP Hitch with trailer module
Foam Grips
Adjustable Air Deflectors
Driver & Passenger Gel Pads in Seat
Shorty antenna
Ultraguard half cover
Gremlin bell from my son
Break Stripe Kit from Wrap My Spyder
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Just returned home from having the Spyder laser aligned.
I haven't had a chance to take it out on any twistie yet due to the extremely windy conditions plus the wife has demanded some projects to get done around the house today.
Now yesterday was also extremely windy with heavy gusts such as today is. Yesterday, I was getting blown all over the place, even on the straights. Today, on the way home I took the quicker main bypass, which is mostly straight and hardly got blown around at all - it felt much more in control.
They said there was a negative 10 on one wheel and a negative 20 on the other in relation to the rear wheel. I hope this helps when I get out to test it further.
Only 90 bucks.
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2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by SteveLaoyster
Thou it's not on the installation papers, I greased my new heim joints before I put them on. Took some time but gives me peace of mind.
The Heim Joint Links should not be lubricated. Grease or oil will attract dirt and other contaminants which will act as an abrasive and eventually destroy the joint. A dry lubricant would probably be OK if you really wanted to do something along those lines.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
By the way. Not a single one of these Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links has ever failed. This includes accidents where one or both links suffered enough impact to significantly gouge the aluminum.
You are good to go!
Sorry. Your heim joint links, these begin to rattle after several thousand km (ca 30.000 km). They definitely have far too great tolerance. Even the clipre rust. I'm disappointed.
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Hello Ron,
Thanks again for your quick support. The new replacement Join Links are much better than the old version. I just installed the new one. That doesn't wiggle anymore. Many thanks for the support "also across the atlantic" .
Best regards from Germany ans always stay healthy
Micha
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BajaRon
By the way. Not a single one of these Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links has ever failed. This includes accidents where one or both links suffered enough impact to significantly gouge the aluminum.
You are good to go!
Exactly why I buy quality products. Thanks....
Greg Kamer
"It's better to be not riding and wishing you were than be riding and wishing you weren't."
USAF, 20 years, retired
Sheriff's Office, 23 years, retired
2018 Can Am Spyder RT-Limited
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Originally Posted by Micha.
Hello Ron,
Thanks again for your quick support. The new replacement Join Links are much better than the old version. I just installed the new one. That doesn't wiggle anymore. Many thanks for the support "also across the atlantic" .
Best regards from Germany ans always stay healthy
Micha
Not a lot of my dog bone links failed considering how many are out there. But I don't want any of them to fail (by 'Fail', I mean no longer function properly. Not a catastrophic fail). The new link design has, so far, been 100% bullet proof. Salt and other chemicals wreaked havoc on the old design. I am glad you are happy with them.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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