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  1. #1
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    Default Time for a belt idler?

    A question to confirm what I am already thinking. Since my last rear tire change, I have picked up a vibration in the 2 highest gears (4th and 5th) between about 4200 and 4400 rpms. Smooth above and below or under hard acceleration. I have had the tension checked on the drive belt and the tech tweaked it a little but had said it was within specs. Am I probably getting the harmonic in the belt? And if so, is this mostly cleared by the belt tensioner I have heard about on this forum?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member ingramwc's Avatar
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    Your RPM's are too low, rev that engine higher, it is smooth as silk above 5,000 RPM... Running at those RPM you are beginning to lug the engine!!!!
    Current ride: 2013 Circuit Yellow ST-S SE5

  3. #3
    Active Member Richardv's Avatar
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    Default Same here....

    Quote Originally Posted by fulltimer View Post
    A question to confirm what I am already thinking. Since my last rear tire change, I have picked up a vibration in the 2 highest gears (4th and 5th) between about 4200 and 4400 rpms. Smooth above and below or under hard acceleration. I have had the tension checked on the drive belt and the tech tweaked it a little but had said it was within specs. Am I probably getting the harmonic in the belt? And if so, is this mostly cleared by the belt tensioner I have heard about on this forum?
    ...I have ther same vibration. You can change the RPM range by playing with the belt tension, but it remains "somewhere" in that area.

    I already boughtt my F3 tensioner frrom BRP, and as soon as the Spyder will come out of storage, I will try to adapt it like Doc Humprey did for the RTs. I suspect it will fit since it is the same frame, fuel tank, and rear swing arm. (confirmed by double checking parts # in the shop manual).

    But still have do try it to prove it.....to be followed..... ;-)



    Richard

    * 2012 RS SE5 (hers)
    * 2013 ST SM5 (mine)

    Daughter RSS SE5 2014
    Son in law RSS SM5 2013

    P.S. 3 Kumho AST 225/50R15 and 1 Toyo Proxies 4 225/50R15 rear tires
    2 sets of Kumho 175/55R15 front tires
    1 set of Hankook V4
    1 set of Canadian Tire General tire Evertrek RTX in 14" for the 2012 ...

  4. #4
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    I have a 2012 rt i dont see a belt tensioner, does that year not have one?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ingramwc View Post
    Your RPM's are too low, rev that engine higher, it is smooth as silk above 5,000 RPM... Running at those RPM you are beginning to lug the engine!!!!
    Though the engine does indeed run as smooth as silk at 5K or above, there are 2 factors in play here.

    1 in 24K miles, I have not had the vibration before.

    2 that RPM range is where 55 mph sits. A not uncommon cruising speed in the midwest.

    PS, sorry for not getting back on line sooner.

  6. #6
    Active Member Spider-man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjanway View Post
    I have a 2012 rt i dont see a belt tensioner, does that year not have one?
    It's not standard, you need to purchase one after-market.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjanway View Post
    I have a 2012 rt i dont see a belt tensioner, does that year not have one?
    It works for all RT's.

    http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/road...amper-products

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richardv View Post
    ...I have ther same vibration. You can change the RPM range by playing with the belt tension, but it remains "somewhere" in that area.

    I already boughtt my F3 tensioner frrom BRP, and as soon as the Spyder will come out of storage, I will try to adapt it like Doc Humprey did for the RTs. I suspect it will fit since it is the same frame, fuel tank, and rear swing arm. (confirmed by double checking parts # in the shop manual).

    But still have do try it to prove it.....to be followed..... ;-)
    If you can figure it out, we sure can produce the mod. One problem is the parking brake pawl on that side by the front sprocket. Not sure how we will get around that. If I had one to experiment on, I could make it work.

    Good Luck! Hope you are able to do it!

  9. #9
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fulltimer View Post
    Though the engine does indeed run as smooth as silk at 5K or above, there are 2 factors in play here.

    1 in 24K miles, I have not had the vibration before.

    2 that RPM range is where 55 mph sits. A not uncommon cruising speed in the midwest.

    PS, sorry for not getting back on line sooner.
    But you also told us this was only after you changed the rear tire, so that's at least a third factor!?! Changed from what tire to what tire?!? Any size or make change? And did the vibrations become obvious immediately after the change, or only after ryding for a while on the new tire??

    That tire change could well have a bearing, if not being the sole reason that you 'now' notice vibrations when in the past you didn't?! It could even be that you always had the vibrations only they were masked by something else (a dodgy tire maybe?) & now that you have a different tire, the vibration has become obvious!! This can work both ways, an old dodgy tire masking vibrations so now that you have a good tire the vibrations are apparent; or it could be the last tire was OK & now you've got one that's not so good creating or enhancing the inherent vibrations...

    So what tire did you have & what did you change to? Any balancing or bearing changes done at the same time? Belt tension changes, new shocks, anything else really?!? Vibrations can be a real pain to sort, especially if you've done a few things before they miraculously 'appear'!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-07-2017 at 09:27 PM.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Pirate looks at --'s Avatar
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    Default ......

    If your Spyder was in alignment.......it might not be now!
    White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.

    2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.

  11. #11
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    Default OK, so lets try to answer

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    But you also told us this was only after you changed the rear tire, so that's at least a third factor!?! Changed from what tire to what tire?!? Any size or make change? And did the vibrations become obvious immediately after the change, or only after ryding for a while on the new tire??
    I began to notice it within the first couple days.

    That tire change could well have a bearing, if not being the sole reason that you 'now' notice vibrations when in the past you didn't?! It could even be that you always had the vibrations only they were masked by something else (a dodgy tire maybe?) & now that you have a different tire, the vibration has become obvious!! This can work both ways, an old dodgy tire masking vibrations so now that you have a good tire the vibrations are apparent; or it could be the last tire was OK & now you've got one that's not so good creating or enhancing the inherent vibrations...

    So what tire did you have & what did you change to?

    I had the stock OEM tire. I changed to a Yokohama Avid Touring S in a 215/60, a little taller tire. I can't really comment on the tire as it handles and "feels" fine in all other aspects. Running about 23 PSI.
    Any balancing or bearing changes done at the same time? Belt tension changes, new shocks, anything else really?!? Vibrations can be a real pain to sort, especially if you've done a few things before they miraculously 'appear'!
    No other changes. As mentioned above, the belt tension has been checked to OEM specs. I know from reading and talking to others that this "harmonic" has raised its head before or there wouldn't be aftermarket devices to correct it.

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