Results 1 to 23 of 23
  1. #1
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    325
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Another RPM question

    I have read in a few forums, that what I was told by one of the Can Am Technicians from a dealer could be incorrect. He told me that with my 2016 F3 Limited SE6 I should shift at least 3500 RPM's to each gear (when possible) if I want to keep my transmission for a long time. Comments? Thanks.
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  2. #2
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Bullfeathers!
    The new hydraulic clutch engagement setup insures a full lock-up as low as 2,000 rpm.
    The old centrifugal system that was used on the SE5 transmissions didn't start to luck, until much later. It cost some riders a bunch of burned clutch plates.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    MOgang Member xpeschon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Waynesville MO
    Posts
    1,194
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    There is a sweet spot on the SE for sure and for me and mine its right around there however closer to about 4000 RPMs mark. I think that was pretty good advice but its hard to shift at that rate simply because when your riding it you kind of want to ride it aggressive every time, or at least I do and there is no way I can maintain the 4000 RPM although I try.


  4. #4
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    325
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Bullfeathers!
    The new hydraulic clutch engagement setup insures a full lock-up as low as 2,000 rpm.
    The old centrifugal system that was used on the SE5 transmissions didn't start to luck, until much later. It cost some riders a bunch of burned clutch plates.
    Thank you that is exactly what I read but I wanted to make sure.
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  5. #5
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I'm an advocate of "Low & Slow" for shifting the SE-6...
    2nd & 3rd gears get grabbed at 2,000 rpm...
    4th, 5th, and 6th gears get "brought to the ballpark" at 2,500 rpm.

    The bike never bogs, and it always pulls strong and clean...

    But a lot of folks like to shift at higher rpm levels, and the bike likes them also!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #6
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    mathias,wv
    Posts
    225
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default rpm

    I don't agree with any set (low side) rpm to shift. There are to many variables to consider - are you going uphill under a load - are you riding in the middle of a group?
    For those that can't "feel" what their ride is doing I believe in being slightly on the "high" side. In almost all circumstances I find that 25 to 35 hundred rpm will cover you.
    Others will not agree - but this has worked for me for over 60 years driving. And as most of us here - I still have a lot to learn.
    My 2 cents worth,
    Tip
    [SIGPIC]

  7. #7
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    20,268
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default SWEET SPOT

    Quote Originally Posted by xpeschon View Post
    There is a sweet spot on the SE for sure and for me and mine its right around there however closer to about 4000 RPMs mark. I think that was pretty good advice but its hard to shift at that rate simply because when your riding it you kind of want to ride it aggressive every time, or at least I do and there is no way I can maintain the 4000 RPM although I try.
    jmho .......... But from as far back as I can remember the term " SWEET SPOT " has always referred to where the Engine's - POWER BAND produced the most performance ..... which was a combination of HP & Torque. I believe the OP's mechanic was talking about the clutch/transmission life and He was wrong !!!! ..... Mike

  8. #8
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    2014-Spyder-RT-dyno-chart.jpg

    Some of BRP's literature, that compares the powerbands of the 1330, and the 998...
    While they do peak at about the same rpm level: the 1330 has a whole lot more on tap in the lower ranges...
    At 2,000 rpm: it almost matches the 998 at it's peak!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ceresco, Michigan
    Posts
    8,633
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Bullfeathers!
    The new hydraulic clutch engagement setup insures a full lock-up as low as 2,000 rpm.
    The old centrifugal system that was used on the SE5 transmissions didn't start to luck, until much later. It cost some riders a bunch of burned clutch plates.
    You're on an RT... the F3 is just begging to be ridden like it's stolen. I can't imagine ever having the RPM's down to 2,000 when shifting... or basically anytime... ;-)

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  10. #10
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I NEVER said that it's for everybody...
    What I've said, is that the bike is perfectly capable of loafing along at a sedate pace!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  11. #11
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Valley Springs, AR
    Posts
    41,270
    Spyder Garage
    8

    Default

    Another "hot button" topic for sure. Sadly, you cannot count on what most people say. "They" always get credit.

    Basic information--and then you do it "your" way from there.

    Two cylinder: Likes to be driven and shifted in the 5000 - 5500 rpm range. This is the one that "they" are saying that the clutch will get issues if not shifted and operated above 3,500 at least 60% of the time. It has five gears but the 5th is like an overdrive and usually does not come into play until 65 mph or higher. I drove the Hana Highway on Maui (about 50 miles) in first gear the whole time. Speeds 30 and less. This one has a 9,500 redline--but I have never been there.

    Three cylinder: Likes to be driven and shifted in the 3000 - 3500 range. At 65 mph in sixth--this one purrs along at 3,500. This one has a 7,500 redline--but I have never been there.

    Each version has a "sweet spot" for shifting for what YOU think is the optimum. Go for it, and enjoy the ride.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 03-24-2017 at 02:19 PM.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  12. #12
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Central Valley, Ca
    Posts
    152
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Confused

    I am kind of confused on this. I thought we had this discussion before. On the Dos and Dont's:

    The “ECO” mode shift coach suggests shifting at the following rpm’s:
    1st to 2nd: 1,800 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd: 1,950 rpm’s
    3rd and up: 2,200 rpm’s

    From another posted forum some would shift:
    1st to 2nd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
    3rd and up:
    2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s

    Another individual stated to shift at:
    1st to 2nd: 3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd:
    3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
    3rd and up:
    3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s

    What would be the recommendation for shifting for new Spyders?



  13. #13
    Active Member Beachbum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Myrtle Beach S.C.
    Posts
    72
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Top end for me!

    I have a 2015 F3s sm6 and I wind it right up to 6000 or 7000 rpms when I have the room. I bought 10,000rpms and I aint afraid to use 'em! This is AFTER the engine is warm and I do keep my oil fresh.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Somewhere USA
    Posts
    714
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    As noted from my post on this topic I found 4000 RPMs made shifting smooth. 3000 made hesitation annoying as my head would bounce so to speak. Too argumentative as a topic to discuss further, my thoughts.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beachbum View Post
    I have a 2015 F3s sm6 and I wind it right up to 6000 or 7000 rpms when I have the room. I bought 10,000rpms and I aint afraid to use 'em! This is AFTER the engine is warm and I do keep my oil fresh.
    You might have paid for a tachometer with a 10,000 rpm range...
    But the 1330 will only rev to 8,100 rpm.
    (7,500 rpm: if it's in neutral, and just getting it's juices buzzed a bit! )
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  16. #16
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ussoldier View Post
    I am kind of confused on this. I thought we had this discussion before. On the Dos and Dont's:

    The “ECO” mode shift coach suggests shifting at the following rpm’s:
    1st to 2nd: 1,800 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd: 1,950 rpm’s
    3rd and up: 2,200 rpm’s

    From another posted forum some would shift:
    1st to 2nd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
    3rd and up:
    2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s

    Another individual stated to shift at:
    1st to 2nd: 3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd:
    3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
    3rd and up:
    3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s

    What would be the recommendation for shifting for new Spyders?


    This is actually a good question!
    The amount of information out there is staggering...
    The key on ANY new engine, is to "avoid" full throttle, and heavy loads..., and vary your throttle settings.
    (Don't let is drone on and on and on, at just one rpm level!)

    Keep this in mind, and you and your bike will always be best friends!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ceresco, Michigan
    Posts
    8,633
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    As noted from my post on this topic I found 4000 RPMs made shifting smooth. 3000 made hesitation annoying as my head would bounce so to speak. Too argumentative as a topic to discuss further, my thoughts.
    Exactly. I rarely look at the rpms.... I just know when I want to shift based on the kind of riding I'm doing... which is often in 'bat outta hell mode'.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
    Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
    Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!

  18. #18
    Active Member Beachbum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Myrtle Beach S.C.
    Posts
    72
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Huh,8100rpm ya say......now I want a refund!!! That must be the point where it seems to run out of steam in 2nd gear so I gotta grab 3rd. I don't look at gauges much, hate to take my eyes off the road.

  19. #19
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Valley Springs, AR
    Posts
    41,270
    Spyder Garage
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ussoldier View Post
    I am kind of confused on this. I thought we had this discussion before. On the Dos and Dont's:

    The “ECO” mode shift coach suggests shifting at the following rpm’s:
    1st to 2nd: 1,800 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd: 1,950 rpm’s
    3rd and up: 2,200 rpm’s

    From another posted forum some would shift:
    1st to 2nd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd: 2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s
    3rd and up:
    2,500 - 3,500 rpm’s

    Another individual stated to shift at:
    1st to 2nd: 3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
    2nd to 3rd:
    3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s
    3rd and up:
    3,500 - 4,000 rpm’s

    What would be the recommendation for shifting for new Spyders?


    Another "hot button" issue. Most of us do not like ECO mode--period. I find looking for the green arrow distracting. I don't agree with the shift points. Used it faithfully for one tank of gas. Got about 1 mpg more.

    They can keep ECO mode. Give me back the electronic activated frunk switch.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  20. #20
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beachbum View Post
    Huh,8100rpm ya say......now I want a refund!!! That must be the point where it seems to run out of steam in 2nd gear so I gotta grab 3rd. I don't look at gauges much, hate to take my eyes off the road.
    It's not actually running "out of steam"; you're up against the rev-limiter!
    (It feels like it just fell flat; doesn't it?)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  21. #21
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    3,459
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    2014-Spyder-RT-dyno-chart.jpg

    Some of BRP's literature, that compares the powerbands of the 1330, and the 998...
    While they do peak at about the same rpm level: the 1330 has a whole lot more on tap in the lower ranges...
    At 2,000 rpm: it almost matches the 998 at it's peak!
    It always cracks me up when someone posts this pic. Looks like it's done by a 5yr old with a box of markers, and while I can't comment on the 1330, that is nowhere near the power curve of the v990 motor....Lol

    Great marketing poster though!

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  22. #22
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    The 1330 is WAYYYYYY.... stronger than the 998 at lower rpm levels...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  23. #23
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    3,459
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    The 1330 is WAYYYYYY.... stronger than the 998 at lower rpm levels...
    Good for you.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •