Break pedal on 2016 F3 LTD

[Al Gully]

If you know someone who can weld, the brake link rod can be cut, shortened, and rewelded. The rod is actually a tube. I describe the process I used for my wife's F3 Limited here http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...e-link-rod-mod H2O

Thanks for the link, I can weld, so I will be doing this modification for my wife's 2016 F3L.
She's 5 foot nothing.

[Peter Aawen]

I've always thought that the brake pedal on the F3's meant you hadta twist your foot/toes up & back into an unnatural angle in order to operate it, so I have looked just a little into how that pedal could be safely lowered, & I believe it's not quite as simple as you might think & hope!!

For those considering shortening the rod, do be a little careful how much you shorten it! The pedal itself is on a pivot with a slot & pin arrangement in there that only allows a set range of total movement; so if you shorten the rod then yeah, it pulls the pedal further down, but at the same time it also makes the pedal closer to the bottom limit in its full range of travel & you may find you can't fully apply the brakes any more!! ! If that's the case, you might hafta use a die grinder or similar to lengthen the slot that limits how far the pedal can travel; or maybe you could re-drill the hole that the rod connects to, so that it returns the length of the rod/pedal stroke to something close to the original length without raising the pedal any!

I have also seen a 'V' cut into the metal of the pedal shank under the foot plate so that the shank could be bent down in order to close up the 'V' & lower the pedal without any impact on the full range of its travel; so when they got the height right, the 'V' section was fully closed & it could be welded back together & return the pedal shank to its original strength, just with the pedal in a lower position!!

Whatever you do, just make sure that once done, you can still fully apply the brakes in an emergency!!