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Very Active Member
Ordered a case (RP) from my local O'Riely auto parts store one morning - arrived later the same day. Cost: $11.99 a qt. (plus tax).. have not installed as yet, but plan to at 3,000 mile point.
don
Did own: 2008, Red, SE5 - and 2010, Black, RT-S Premiere Edition Number 670
Now Own: 2014 Black RT-S SE6
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Oil debates seem to have more lives than a dozen cats!
There is no question that if you use an oil rated at or above the manufactures specs and change it at the recommended intervals there are no warranty issues.
It is amazing that some dealers/manufacturers are still telling owners their warranty will be void if they don't use the manufacturer's oil or get it serviced at an authorized dealer. That is just bunk.
Besides, there isn't any manufacturer that makes their own oil anyway. They buy a standard, over the counter product from Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobile, etc., that you can get at Wal-Mart, slap their label on the can and jack the price up. The customer FEELS like they are doing right by their vehicle and the dealer is happy with the money in their pocket.
The difference between 5w and 10w is not all that significant (as others have mentioned). And the standard is not consistent throughout the industry either. Some 5w oils will perform like another's 10w oil at service temperatures (and visa versa).
However, the difference between blended (Dino + Synthetic) and full synthetic IS Significant. This is where I would put my money. Why mix some good stuff in with the (well, not bad, but less good).
Sure blended is better (depending on the ratio). But for a little more money you can have 100% good stuff. Oil in a Spyder has to deal with everything from cylinder temperature and pressure to getting crushed in the gears and sheared in the clutch.
Every independent test done shows a significant improvement in lubrication with a full synthetic oil over straight dino or even blended oils. Some synthetics will do better than others but the real jump in performance is with any of the full synthetic oils.
Someone else mentioned that the thinner oil stays on metal parts better. This is not really true. Thinner oil tends to run off more quickly than thicker oil. This is not as much of an issue with today's oils as it was in the past. Thinner oil will flow more quickly on start-up than thicker oils and will reach critical parts more quickly.
They say 85% of engine wear occurs at start-up. But even this issue has largely been eliminated with improved oil technology and innovations like valved filters that keep oil from draining out of pressure gallies.
Another advantage of 100% synthetic oil is that it stays on your parts longer than dino oils.
Go for the full synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-40 (either is fine) and your Spyder will not bite you later on.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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I just had my first services at dealer now I have 900 miles, my question should I wait to change over to the RP at my next oil change or go ahead and change it now.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by burg650
I just had my first services at dealer now I have 900 miles, my question should I wait to change over to the RP at my next oil change or go ahead and change it now.
I waited until I had over 3000 miles to change over. I actually had 5000 miles when I changed. Old habits are hard to break! I have changed my motorcycle oils at 5000 miles for the last 40 years, so the Spyder won't be treated any different. So I guess that's up to you. I would wait until 3000 miles and get my money's worth out of the first service.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by aka1004
please post where you got the stuff from and how much?
cyclemax is what i need right? 10w40? thank you
my spyder is ready for oil change anyway and i am all for better performance. i wonder if they make oil filter for spyder
Just saw some at Wal-Mart the other day. It was NOT with the auto oils but in the ATV/lawn mower area.
The glass is half full.
Mike Murphy
Happy Spyder Owner
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Active Member
I've been having shifting problems,even after the spring change, software update and sensor change. So at my 4,000 mile oil change I switched to Royal Purple. I only have about 150 miles on it since the change but so far it has gotten worse than it was before . I'm hoping that after a liitle more break in period it will get better. If not it will be back to the dealer again. I've read quite a bit about Royal Purple and had high hopes for this helping to fix the spyder. Oh well I'll keep pulling over shutting it down and waiting my two minutes before I'm on my way again.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by bnlrobinson
I've been having shifting problems,even after the spring change, software update and sensor change. So at my 4,000 mile oil change I switched to Royal Purple. I only have about 150 miles on it since the change but so far it has gotten worse than it was before . I'm hoping that after a liitle more break in period it will get better. If not it will be back to the dealer again. I've read quite a bit about Royal Purple and had high hopes for this helping to fix the spyder. Oh well I'll keep pulling over shutting it down and waiting my two minutes before I'm on my way again.
Does not sound like a problem that oil is going to fix... another trip to the dealer may be in your future.
Have you called and talked to them about it? At least you would be on the books as still having an issue after a "Fix" was attempted by the dealer.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Active Member
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Does not sound like a problem that oil is going to fix... another trip to the dealer may be in your future.
Have you called and talked to them about it? At least you would be on the books as still having an issue after a "Fix" was attempted by the dealer.
I've had it back one time since the recall service and they can't get the bike to mess up when they ride it (they had it 3 weeks). I've been trying to document when it happens and give them the report when I take it back. I was actually hoping it would get worse. Somedays it might lock up 4 times and other times it might go 2 weeks without a problem. I have noticed that the display light for the speedometer and rpms stays lit when I turn the key off and I don't get the alarm telling me the brake isn't set. I got a 5 year warranty so hopefully it will get fixed sooner than later. But I must say I do love my spyder.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by bnlrobinson
I've had it back one time since the recall service and they can't get the bike to mess up when they ride it (they had it 3 weeks). I've been trying to document when it happens and give them the report when I take it back. I was actually hoping it would get worse. Somedays it might lock up 4 times and other times it might go 2 weeks without a problem. I have noticed that the display light for the speedometer and rpms stays lit when I turn the key off and I don't get the alarm telling me the brake isn't set. I got a 5 year warranty so hopefully it will get fixed sooner than later . But I must say I do love my spyder.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...1&postcount=28
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Active Member
SE5
Thanks for the help Lamonster, I'm going to call the dealer right now.
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Active Member
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????
Originally Posted by bnlrobinson
I've had it back one time since the recall service and they can't get the bike to mess up when they ride it (they had it 3 weeks). I've been trying to document when it happens and give them the report when I take it back. I was actually hoping it would get worse. Somedays it might lock up 4 times and other times it might go 2 weeks without a problem. I have noticed that the display light for the speedometer and rpms stays lit when I turn the key off and I don't get the alarm telling me the brake isn't set. I got a 5 year warranty so hopefully it will get fixed sooner than later . But I must say I do love my spyder.
Are you supposed to get an alarm when the brake is not set? I never have but everything else works just fine!!!
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Originally Posted by tberry
Are you supposed to get an alarm when the brake is not set? I never have but everything else works just fine!!!
Only if you have an SE5.
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Registered Users
When is a good time to switch over to Royal Purple? I have about 1700mi on my spyder. Normally I don't switch oils for like my car until I have at least 3000 miles on it. Should I wait?
It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent, but the most adaptive to change.
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Motorbike Professor
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Very Active Member
No sense in changing mid-stream unless you are having a specific problem. I'm currently having some issues with Royal Purple. Ever since I put it in (1,500 miles ago) my bike has a strange smell to it. RP techs said it was their 'syndelac(sp??)' stuff seating and buring off and it should go away. Well - it's been 1,500 miles and it still smells on acceleration and when I first start the bike up.
On top of that I have developed an oil leak over the last week or so - a few drops every time I park it. Never had such a problem prior to the RP oil - but cannot say that the RP is the cause. I've got all the tupperware removed and am looking closer at where the leak comes from.
Looking for another oil to try instead of the RP - maybe Mobil 1.
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Mod Maniac
Originally Posted by tberry
Are you supposed to get an alarm when the brake is not set? I never have but everything else works just fine!!!
welcome
ata = allergic to asphalt
My mods: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ead.php?t=5753
.
There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009
My Spyder:
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Firefly
Looking for another oil to try instead of the RP - maybe Mobil 1.
Advance Auto carries the Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil (actually not a racing oil but made for water-cooled sport bikes). I didn't like the spec on it, however, and will be trying the Castrol Syntec 5W-40, which is readily available at Advance Auto and AutoZone, among other places. Castrol makes a 5W-40 PowerRS R4 RT motorcycle oil, but it doesn't seem to be available locally, and the local stores couldn't order it. Amsoil makes a 10W-40 that is available locally, and is a top notch oil.
-Scotty
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Originally Posted by tberry
Are you supposed to get an alarm when the brake is not set? I never have but everything else works just fine!!!
welcome On your new spyder and welcome aboard. You will love this forum. Lots of good information from some great people here. Check out the Indiana thread from time to time. We try to get together every now and then for a ride. Where are you located?
Dick
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Active Member
Originally Posted by ataDude
welcome
good catch-- Welcome tberry
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Active Member
FYI. If you are going to use Royal Purple make sure you use Max-Cycle. That is the one for motorcycles. I know that you can get the Automotive RP cheaper at Auto stores but, they say not to use it in your bike. I sell it cheaper than everyone else but, in deferance to the rules of this forum I am not allowed to mention my companies name.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by teacherbob
FYI. If you are going to use Royal Purple make sure you use Max-Cycle. That is the one for motorcycles. I know that you can get the Automotive RP cheaper at Auto stores but, they say not to use it in your bike. I sell it cheaper than everyone else but, in deferance to the rules of this forum I am not allowed to mention my companies name.
While I am running the Max-Cycle, Tech support at RP told me that the 'Auto' version of the oils is also fine and won't cause clutch slippage.
Considering I never had oil leaks and funky smells prior to using RP---- I'm switching to something else to see if the RP was the problem. I'm 100% sure the smell is from the RP - but kind of doubt the leak is - but you never know.
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Active Member
I was going to change oil type to Royal Purple and read the owners manual on oil recommendation. States check API service label on the oil container for correct type. I when to the parts store to buy the oil and notice that oil container did not have an API service rating. Is label old because website states otherwise.
Can someone verify on a container that an API service rating exists on the label?
Or
Because BRP states only a recommendation the type oil does not matter and warranty is not void if a non-API Service oil is used and something happens related to oil?
Owner service manual;
BRP Recommended Oil Statement:
The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.
Always check the API service label on the oil container.
NOTICE To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting theAPI service SMor ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occurs.
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Blazing Member
Owner service manual;
BRP Recommended Oil Statement:
The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.
Always check the API service label on the oil container.
NOTICE To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting theAPI service SMor ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occurs.[/quote]
Royal Purple Max-Cycle 10w-40 made for motorcycles. Make sure you are not looking at the cheaper auto oil. Also most BRP dealers are using a blended oil now , so not fully synthetic against what the owners book says.
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