Installed new brakes - HOT!

[Firefly]

So I installed new EBC brakes today. Is it normal for the new pads to be really tight against discs? As in they are always rubbing and causing them the heat up big time.


Went out and did some hard stops and am now letting it all cool down


We're talking melt the tip of my shoes hot!

[sabunim5]

Careful, don't warp the rotors. Sounds like the caliper piston(s) didn't retract far enough. Did you change all three sets? Are they all getting that hot?

[Firefly]

Careful, don't warp the rotors. Sounds like the caliper piston(s) didn't retract far enough. Did you change all three sets? Are they all getting that hot?

I changed all 3 sets-----


The wheels won't spin freely---- the pads are constantly against the rotors!

How is one supposed to get the the caliper pistons to retract further?

[Firefly]

Careful, don't warp the rotors. Sounds like the caliper piston(s) didn't retract far enough. Did you change all three sets? Are they all getting that hot?

While I'm concerned about the constant rubbing----and possible uneven depositing and 'baking' of the brake pad material----- rotors don't actually warp--- that has been well determined to be a myth.

Less techie article:

http://www.examiner.com/x-1060-Orlan...d-brake-rotors

More techie article:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

-------------------------

I'm just concerned about the constant rubbing--- doesn't seem right to me. I used to be able to spin the tires with the old pads--- no problem... even back when they were new.

[xpeschon]

Fly I don't think it would be the piston, I mean it could be but,,I'm thinking width of the pad might be off a bit,, There is mis-manufactured parts made everyday and maybe you received a bad pair,,

So I installed new EBC brakes today. Is it normal for the new pads to be really tight against discs? They should NOT be really tight but like right there..

The wheels won't spin freely---- the pads are constantly against the rotors!

Something is not right there,, in my experience with brakes your wheel should turn freely with the pad a SLIGHT distance from the rotor,, You may hear a LITTLE bit of rubbing for a few miles but should clear up.. Not sure what you have going on there Fly I am just giving you my 2 cents worth,, someone with some more expertise will charm in I'm sure.. Keep us posted please sir..

X-Joe

[NancysToy]

Something is very wrong! Possible causes are failure to retract the caliper piston fully, using a C-clamp or similar tool, pads that are the wrong dimension, pads not properly placed or seated on or in the caliper piston, the wrong pads for the application, failure of the caliper to slide properly on the pins or bosses, failure of the rotor to seat in the proper position, foreign objects, etc. My guess is defective or wrong application pads. The shop manual doesn't list the original thickness of the pad material, just the minimum, and it does not list the backing plate thickness. Your gonna have to compare with the old parts and guess a bit.

BTW, myth or factual, rotors do develop excessive runout...whether due to warpage or other factors. That is why there is usually a "maximum warpage" spec in the manual. No matter what the cause, it is important to check runout as well as rotor thickness when doing a brake job. Rotors can and do fail the runout spec. Also, I would not expect to see a warped ventilated, thick rotor for a car, but I have seen the thin ones for bikes and race cars fail a straightedge test when removed. If that is not warpage, I don't know what to call it.

If you end up in a box, give a call and we can study it and cuss at it together.

[SpyderWolf]

Something definitely doesn't sound right with the constant rubbing. I wish I knew what to do to help you out, but it sounds like this is something I will have the dealer do for me when the time comes.

Best of luck getting the issue resolved.

[AMTJIM]

Did you ever add brake fluid before you changed the pads? You may have too much fluid in the reservoir. As pads wear down, the pistons take up the gap and fluid from the reservoir fills the space left by the pistons. I know the brake fluid sensor is touchy on these spyders. There is really no reason to fill a reservoir unless there's a leak, is should hold more than needed if you run all brake pads metal to metal, but limp mode shows up early on these. Anyways, new pads reclaim the space the pistons took and the pistons want to send the fluid back, but if there is no room, it may have the effect of brakes applied. Be ready for that if you remove the cap.

[Firefly]

Thanks for all the great info guys....

I've never added break fluid-- and the reservoir is full.

When I installed the new pads I had the reservoir caps removed as the service manual says to do.... pried the calipers open-- removed old pads-- installed new--- pried open again as they kept trying to close-- pried them open long enough to get them on the rotor----

going to go remove the reservoir caps and see if that changes the pressure at all.

Otherwise I guess I'm pulling them off and putting the old ones back on....

[SpyderFun]

Thanks for all the great info guys....

I've never added break fluid-- and the reservoir is full.

When I installed the new pads I had the reservoir caps removed as the service manual says to do.... pried the calipers open-- removed old pads-- installed new--- pried open again as they kept trying to close-- pried them open long enough to get them on the rotor----

going to go remove the reservoir caps and see if that changes the pressure at all.

Otherwise I guess I'm pulling them off and putting the old ones back on....

Give the piston a chance to physically retract into the caliper housing. Remember, you are forcing fluid BACK into the reservoir and that can take a min or so for THAT fluid pressure to bleed off to the point where the piston will remain stationary. So if you remove the clamp too soon then the pressure you created will seek the path of least resistance which is away from the caliper or out. Hope this helps you understand a bit more w/o insulting you.

[Raptor]

Scotty had a good idea in that when and if you pull the new ones off compare the backing plates (thickness, shape, etc.) Chances are they may have given you the wrong pads! It happens...

[Firefly]

Just swapped everything back.... will see if the rotors are fubared.

These pads are way too thick--- no way was there enough room for this kind of thickness.

Going to stick with OEM from now on!

Live and learn.

[spyryder]

On the rear caliper, did you remove the parking brake lever and turn the actuator screw back into the retracted position?

[Firefly]

On the rear caliper, did you remove the parking brake lever and turn the actuator screw back into the retracted position?

Removed the cable only-- no need to remove the lever---- was easy to swap pads.

[spyryder]

Removed the cable only-- no need to remove the lever---- was easy to swap pads.

Piston won't go all the way back if the actuator screw isn't retracted. It wasn't tight reinstalling the caliper with the new pads?

[Firefly]

Piston won't go all the way back if the actuator screw isn't retracted. It wasn't tight reinstalling the caliper with the new pads?

Not too bad really--- but too tight against the rotor obviously

[draboo]

I changed pads before our trip with factory pads and had no trouble at all.

Tho I was suprised at how little the original pads had worn. I changed them at around 13K miles.

[Firefly]

Well---Spyder is screwed.

Old brake pads rub all the time now too--- and I've got a wicked wobble.

Sturgis trip next Friday is most likely OFF.

[Capt John]

Well---Spyder is screwed.

Old brake pads rub all the time now too--- and I've got a wicked wobble.

Sturgis trip next Friday is most likely OFF.

Wow! What a bummer! Are all three wheels (rotors) rubbing?

[Firefly]

Wow! What a bummer! Are all three wheels (rotors) rubbing?

Yup----- calling dealer tomorrow----- I'm screaming UNCLE!

[retread]

Just curiousity on my part.. have you ever adjusted the park brake lever? If you did, did you readjust it to compensate for the new pads?

john

[krb1945]

Seems the dust cakes in front of the rubber seals and won't allow the pistons to retract fully when you install new pads. You might take an old tooth brush and clean the caliper good. The clicking you are hearing may be the extra friction of the pad on the rotor. Lift the caliper remove the pads. Spray it good with brake cleaner then use the brush to clean any junk that might be caked on the piston stems in front of the rubber keeping the pistons from retracting. A honda mechanic friend of mine taught me to do this every time pads are changed.

For the wobble I can only guess... check to see if when you spin the tire by hand the thread is running true. If not... see if the bead seated good on the rim.

Hope this helps you... hate to see them go to the shop... seems many disappear for weeks at the shop. Pixie dust, I think. Ken krb1945

[SpyderWolf]

Yup----- calling dealer tomorrow----- I'm screaming UNCLE!

I am very sorry to hear this as well. I wish you the best in getting it sorted out quickly, and hopefully getting your trip back on.

[hondaman]

Is all 3 wheels not turning even after the old ones reinstalled?
It is easy to warp the roters if something is wrong and not cheap to replace roters.Usually roters dont warp just pad buildup.But enough heat and metal will warp.

[NancysToy]

For the wobble I can only guess... check to see if when you spin the tire by hand the thread is running true. If not... see if the bead seated good on the rim.

Good advise. Also check to see that the rotors are fully seated on the hubs. With the tires off and the calipers/pads removed, they can slip out of place and fail to seat fully, especially if the studs have a shoulder. This will not only make the pads rub, but will make the tires runout. Debris under the rotor can do the same thing.