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See if the pedal stays up with the parking brake applied.

You should be able to unbolt that lever then and rotate the shaft....the part with the cable on top and spring on the bottom. don't use a C clamp until the shaft is retracted.

Sorry just noticed yours is a 2013....does it look like the one in the photo? It might be easier to rotate the piston.....or see if you can remove the round thing (bellcrank) that the cable is...

The lever that's attached to the parking brake cable....reposition the lever so you can turn it in the opposite direction.

:agree:

There should also be a ground wire somewhere from the engine block to the frame.

It's front wheel drive. :lecturef_smilie:

He paid $10,500 so for sure it's an older rs or gs.

You can even mix synthetic with regular oil:

http://chemistry.about.com/od/geochemistry/f/What-Happens-If-You-Mix-Regular-And-Synthetic-Oil.htm

Adding a little won't hurt a thing

KX started the other thread....it's about the only one you haven't commented on.:gaah:

I wonder if a shut off valve were installed in the vent line from the tank to the canister? Some pressure could likely build up but I believe the gas cap has a relief valve in case of too much...

There was a recall way back in '08. This was looked after a long time ago.

Caps go on this way with the ribs facing to the rear:

Permatex makes a coolant tank repair kit. Try an automotive parts store. You can also put the cap on the first notch and hopefully relieve pressure on the tank without too much leakage.
...

Found On Reservation Dump :opps:

I think we're both right, it just depends which decades we're talking about! It looks like the pre 60's cars were really simple like on that '55 cap. I don't think there was a diaphragm under that...

I'm pretty happy with mine too. I've got around 11,000 miles on it now. It's had the DPS recall and the ECM was changed when one cylinder quit firing. I haven't done anything else other than oil...

Here's another example....the older cars had a simple venting system drilled right into the side of the cap and was easy to see. This one's from a '55 Ford:

Yes, I removed the cap and the diaphragm has two small dimples...I imagine those are the vents but a bit too small to make them out. The diaphragm wasn't all sucked down either like all of those old...

They can be hard to see if you don't push on them like I did with the one on the left.....and here's the vent opening on my Spyder's clutch cap. There are two of them, one on each side. I removed the...

Take a look at your Dorman replacement and tell me if it's similar to these diaphragms which happen to have precision slits cut into them. The left is Chrysler and the one on the right is from a Ford:

Sorry you're wrong. Brake systems need to be vented to equalize atmospheric pressure. You're right about moisture being bad for the system though and that's why your fluid should be changed...

:agree: The slits are intentional and necessary for venting. Plenty of threads about this a few years ago. There are also venting grooves molded into the caps....orient the grooves in the caps...

I looked at my car and it's also a 1 ply sidewall. :p

It's been widely accepted as fact that the Kenda was a 2 ply tire.....it's a 3 ply! I never bothered checking till today. :opps:

24 is still too much....you need to go lower than that to make a difference.

What pressures were you running at?

I was running recommended pressures for the first few thousand miles and noticed the center wearing more than the edges early on. The tire would also skip or bounce over cracks in the road surface...

See if you might have some cracked vacuum hoses.