Might I inquire as to what the symptoms were, how you realized it was your clutch. Any unusual sounds, etc. Which way was the clutch shimmed wrong? Too much, or too little. Thanks for your replies.
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BRP has known about the weak/slipping clutch since 2009, and put a new clutch in all Spyders since 2011. I bought my 2009 Spyder brand new and they replaced/upgraded a clutch under warranty, it was never a Recall but a well-known issue. Sunshine riders who never open the throttle will never even notice before their clutch slowly and surely smoke itself off - when the warranty is gone.
Easy way how to find out state of your clutch.
If it is 2010 or older - it needs a new clutch!
Test: bring it at 6000 rpm in 5th gear and fully open, if it reacts and accelerates, your clutch is still fine but will get there eventually. If engine revs up but no or delayed acceleration - it's a clutch time Pal.
Reason I ask, is now when I put it in 1st or reverse, the clutch grabs and at an idle will try to move the machine if it is on the level. Really not a problem, just don't have to have the rpm's up to approximately 2400 for it to engage. Slight brake pressure holds it just fine.
You have one. It sprays the clutch plates with oil constantly. The Rotax is a dry sump engine, so the clutch plates can't run in an oil bath in the sump to stay wet, they have to be fed with oil constantly. A jet feed of oil is better than old-fashioned splash lube anyway, as it has a controlled volume and less friction.
Mike,
Everything has it, or the clutches wouldn't work. It is what makes the "wet clutch" wet.
Mike,
I suspect it is not that critical, but for those that have experienced clutch problems, it should help prevent recurrence. More oil means a cooler clutch, and less likelihood of burning or warping the plates or discs.
There is quite a bit of difference in the new and old nozzles. The old nozzle is very short, whereas the new nozzle looks somewhat like the needles that are used to air up a ball. It is considerably longer. I will post a picture of it when I figure out how to attach it.
The only spring involved with this kit was the spring disc. The pressure plate and clutch drum assembly were not involved, so did not remove them, as my discs had just started slipping and were not burned. Shop mechanic as well as myself could not detect any burnt smell or color in the oil. Also no reason to take the the pressure retaining valve apart, since the oil had just been changed and the air nozzle would have no reason to be clogged or dirty. So the compression spring did not come into play, and was not part of the kit.
These are some photos showing the difference in the steel driven plate, the offset faces the disc pack, very important to soak the plates in oil for 1/2 hour prior to installing. The clutch pack compression device is used to compress the disc pack to enable an accurate measurement from the top of the friction plate to the top of the clutch hub.
Also a photo measuring the the top of the spring disk to the machine surface on the pressure plate. Last photo is the old and new oil nozzle. IMG_0758
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