I am losing clutch fluid every time I ride my 2011 Can Am RT Spyder. When it's parked, there's no fluid on the ground to show where may it be going. lol Thanks Brian
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I am losing clutch fluid every time I ride my 2011 Can Am RT Spyder. When it's parked, there's no fluid on the ground to show where may it be going. lol Thanks Brian
when it is parked, depress the clutch and see if you can see a leak. might be a loose fitting
slave cylinder could be leaking internally.
2012 RT with the clutch lever.
I think I have the SM5? The one with the clutch lever. Mine leaked on the right side under the clutch housing where the piston slides back and forth about 1/4 of an inch. The O-rings were worn out. I fixed it myself, and I posted it all here somewhere ... (which type of cycle do you have?)
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngers
I agree, my 2012 did the same thing, the 'O' rings are shot.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/i...cons/icon1.png Clutch Problems
This is information I have gathered from past posts on the clutch problem.
Clutch fluid is drawn into the engine past the worn O rings.
I bought and stored a set of 'O' Rings as my SM5 system responded well to flushing and adding fluid.
Past post notes:
Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild
Section #5 Diaphagm Cover of the OEM parts listing
Orings – 10, 11, 13
p/n 420431441
p/n 420431301
p/n 420631892
Look up 2013 -5 service bulletin in the forum
I'm guessing that your slave cylinder is failing. This is a recurring problem that is being investigated. You will have to replace the slave piston & O-rings, and the slave bushing (cylinder) and O-rings. Cost of parts is about $80 if it is out of warranty. You will recognize the problem by discolored clutch fluid, due the the aluminum that is sluffed off the slave cylinder as it wears, and the deterioration of the O-rings. Be sure to thoroughly flush the clutch system when you do the work. If the clutch fluid is clear, the first place I would look is warped clutch plates, as Lamont said. There is a newly revised clutch pack available, with steel plates and 5 plates/discs. Be sure they order the one for the SM...the SE clutch kit is different.
My extended service is good till March 14, 2017. Would it be covered? It only has 3700 miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by electricman
Yes
Clutch plates are a wear item and not covered by warranty, but the slave cylinder is covered.
Depends....Quote:
Originally Posted by electricman
Not likely being a normal wear item. Sometimes you may get some help with parts from BRP and sometimes dealer help but it is worth a try at any rate. Most commonly it is the o-rings and a simple fix....:thumbup:
Thank you for that info, we will see. It only has 3700 miles, it's hard to believe at that mileage. Thanks BRIANQuote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Thanks for the info Brian. Where can I get a cheap service manual?Quote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Quote:
Originally Posted by electricman
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-2011-Ca...ZUnXK-&vxp=mtr
hey this is electricman found out my 2011 can-am spider rt needs the rebuild kit for the clutch slave cylinder red line repair shop said $480.00 to fix it how can i fine parts to do it my self or some one to do it cheeper ?????? hhhhhhhhhhheeeeeelllppppppp
I would guess some\ one like pro-caliber in Oregon , or Washington state , they have a great break down on parts in an exploded view of parts , I got my o- rings from local dealer , they only had 2 , and it happened too be the 2 I needed ... 10 dollars for those rubber rings ! no do not forget I have the manual clutch ... if you have the manual clutch , and wish to do it your self , order the parts , and look in the forums here or the service manual if you have one ... I posted photos in here : 2012 clutch leak youngers : should get you close too the link ... will keep an eye out for a reply if you need a little more help only needed a few tools ...Quote:
Originally Posted by electricman
hey this is electricman found out my 2011 can-am spider rt needs the rebuild kit for the clutch slave cylinder red line repair shop said $480.00 to fix it how can i fine parts to do it my self or some one to do it cheeper ?????? hhhhhhhhhhheeeeeelllpppppppQuote:
Originally Posted by electricman
Thanks a lot for the info i will check into that. i am going to order a service manual cd from e bay did you ever see that ?Quote:
Originally Posted by youngers
#1 youngers
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http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/i...cons/icon1.png 2012 can-am spyder r-t ( s m 5 ) clutch leak found and fixed !good day every one , { the end of great days of riding is getting closer ... get in as much as possible and stay safe } o kay back too the leak . I posted on another thread , that I had a leak the clutch fluid { type 4 } leaked out , thought it was some where from the clutch reservoir hose too the clutch assist assembly ... { the s m 5 doesn`t have assist the s e 5 has it } so that threw me off ... had a friend come over , needed 4 sets of eyes and 2 heads to find leak , and we finally found the cause ------ http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...486263&thumb=1 --------- this is the friend looking down on the diaphragm cover on the right side of the cycle , the leak is coming from inside here , we took the diaphragm assembly apart , and this is what we had found , a little explanation if I may , the bike sat for couple years , as too have only 5500 miles on a 2012 , so what we think had happened , was the inner O -ring had dry seized too the cylinder wall , the lower part of the cylinder , the rubber O - ring was kind of chewed up , and looked as though it rolled and un-rolled in one movement . here is the photo of the 3 pieces in side a diaphragm housing , before you have too take off t he bigger retainer housing , that holds the meat of the clutches ------- http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...571200&thumb=1 diaphragm housing the spring , is located behind the larger plunger with a large and small O -ring , and the 17 millimeter nut too the left is what hold all together ... here is the larger O -ring that was chewed up ------ http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...571393&thumb=1 ---- if you can you can click on the photo and hopefully you can see the rolled edge and the rough edges where this thing was dry sealed and just finally gave way ! { when I lost all the fluid the 1st time it was quite black , like something disintegrated and worked it way through the system , we cleaned and flushed the whole system , and had too clean the ports in the clutch reservoir too get it too flow easy again , must have pulled something up from bottom we guess } so now we have the rings assemble apart cleaned the plunger and 17 m.m nut with w-d 40 then coated with the type 4 brake fluid then assembled the o-ring too the plunger and nut after we soaked these O-rings in the type 4 fluid ... now we are too the center of the rest of the problem , the housing where the original O -ring sealed it self too the wall , look like the wall had scaring , { real fine scratches around the area of travel } --------------- http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...571853&thumb=1 --if you will notice it looks like two groves in the housing , { the one near the out side is the original grove , the 2 nd one inside is were the O -ring was stuck and broke free which in turn must have rolled a bit , the item in the center of the tube area is the 5 millimeter allen screw which runs too through the clutch plate assembly .. { so make sure this does not turn , if possible , a little will be o kay just roll it back , we had this one turn a bit too break the 17 m.m. nut free but rolled it back too position } so with the wear spot on the inside cylinder we tried to use a hone , but it is too narrow , for a good bore hone , so I had too get a very fine piece of emery cloth , { really fine sand paper 600 too 800 grit I forget , but it was almost smooth too the feel } I rubbed the area where the 2nd wear spot ring was at , until it was gone and a nice almost mirror finish was in its place , wasn`t total mirror but a dang lots better than when we started , { okay not sure where to put this foot note : so here it is --- when you break loose the 17 millimeter nut that holds all the other in place , you will find that the plunger and spring will not fall out , here is where a friend come in handy , have them depress the clutch , and be ready too catch the plunger and spring assembly the oil will pop this out easy, and oil will or might spray I bit .. that is how we got them apart } 17 millimeter metric off set wrench , and a 5 millimeter metric allen wrench you might have too give the off set wrench a couple good wacks too break the nut loose ... after we sanded the rough spots all around the plunger travel area , sprayed W- D 40 over the inside , wipe clean then rubbed type 4 brake fluid over the inside and reassemble the spring into the plunger and the nut over that assembly , { king of press with thumbs , working top and bottom ,then left side right side , at same time this will walk the assembly in it took us 4 times press this way and then just slide right in ... had too flush and bleed the system again , and re assemble the cycle { here is the good part ------> 2 part O -ring large one that was chewed up , the one on the 17 m.m nut --- price is under 10.oo u.s. dollar that is right 9.61 for these . we did have to buy wrench at 17 dollars ---- total time too take skins off start 11 a.m. Friday finish 4 p.m. that is take off skins and look for leak and diagnose the problem , reassemble 11 am Saturday too 4 30 p.m. and that is with dinner ! :roflblack: we were starving ! so if you folks need some service like this I will do it for 800 dollars but wait you can keep the old parts :roflblack: { seriously though , if you do not have an idea of how wrenches work and things fall apart , and what too look for , do not try this by your self , or with some one that also does not know what too do , I have been tearing things up for over 50 years I got practice ! ------ http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...573311&thumb=1 ------- looks fun huh !!!!! so have fun folks it is really really cheeper if you can do it your self ....
I have a 2011 RT and can not find rebuild kit, can u help?Quote:
Originally Posted by youngers
Alice you might try looking here if you know what you need. "click: https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...ster-sm5-parts This is if you have an SM5 2011RT
I need the o-ring clutch rebuild kit like u did. But no dont know the name or how to look for it. Can am dealership wants 250 for the whole kit, not rebuild
Is there a part number for this kit? And where can I get it from
Where can I get this kit, I having same problems with 2011 RTQuote:
Originally Posted by electricman
Try here... https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...iaphragm-cover You can see all the parts and need the Orings. Price is on there as well and better that BRP but all parts a OEM...:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alice
Thank u checking it out now(sent to mechanic)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Great post thanks, I have the same problem with my 2010 Spyder RT, mine keeps going into limp mode telling me it’s the TPS, I’m told this leak could be the problem, but there is nothing electronically connected to this ! Also did you have to reset anything via BUDS ? Many thanks ride safe Fozzie