I know my air is not working so I aired it up manually it want hold air long is this normal and what’s the best entry to take old compressor off and change
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I know my air is not working so I aired it up manually it want hold air long is this normal and what’s the best entry to take old compressor off and change
Doc Humphries likes to get at it from the bottom by removing the rear wheel.
I like to go in from the top by removing the rear storage compartment module. I puts less strain on my body.
Go to YouTube and search for Can Am Spyder compressor and you will find both of our videos.
It's like the difference between taking out a hemorrhoid or a tonsil. :yikes:
Chuppy, I did it removing the entire rear section, followed the video, there is more in the threads
Only 8 months after replacement, ACS failed again
and ACS Rebuild and Rear shock, airbag etc
If you unplug the air ride dump valve you can manually air it up and the air should stay in unless you have a BAD leak...Do a site search and you should find some pictures and directions to unplug it...This will get you by until you get the compressor replaced...
Mine has failed twice and I put a quick unplug connection under the seat so I can just air it up manually and ride it home while out riding double...If you ride single you should be able to ride it without any air in the bag...larryd
This is happening to us too. Had the bike 3 years and it started happening. After putting air in it for years we thought we should have it looked at. Pretty pricey I must say. It seems we are all having issues and they should do something!
:thumbup:If you are willing to try, it's not that hard a job. You'll save a pile of dough. Search YouTube for Can Am Compressor videos.
Looks like I have joined the failed compressor club.
Stopped into my dealer today.
They plugged in and attempted to inflate/deflate with no luck.
Funny thing is no faults detected in past history but I know I saw shock failure fault.
My 2017 F3 Limited has only 4,000 miles.
Watch it be warranty part and $500 in labor.:banghead:
Easy to do and get the aftermarket compressor online save big and works great;)
The stock pump is cheap.... Get this one and it will last a lot longer.
And by the way... One of the biggest reasons the pump goes out fast, you have a leak so it is always cycling.
Just installed the VIAIR compressor purchased from Amazon. Required moving the brake fluid reservoir a bit via spacers, but generally fit pretty well.
Good job.
How do you get at the air ride dump valve to disconnect it waiting for compressor replacement thanks
Rudy,
Just remove the right bits: mirror, upper, middle, side and lower panel, and wind deflector. Follow the line from the Schrader valve under the seat to the valve. Disconnect. Then follow the line from the airbag to the compressor. Disconnect at the compressor. Then connect the lines and you end up with a direct line from the Schrader valve to the airbag. All the parts to do this are already on the bike. Air up the bag, measure from the rear fender to the ground. Go ride. Measure again tomorrow. If it has not dropped, bag ok. We did a lady months ago, and hers is still holding air. Lots of Spyder's don’t have compressors. Check it weekly, and air it manually. Best part? No cost! You can buy a compressor for $50 or less that plugs into your battery tender, carry that with you, and be fine. If you need help, call. Easy job. Joe
Yep, mine quit working about a month ago, but the pump seams to still work, but the bag won't hold air, so hope to take it in next week to see what's going on........oh, and I'm out of warranty by one month when it happened, no they won't back date it, but have an extended warranty that will hopefully cover it......I may even consider an 2up shock, have heard good things about it.
Thanks Joe still have extended BRP warranty going to shop in the morning hopefully they will fix everything Thanks again
Thanks Joe all is good new compressor and air bag
2011 Can Am Spyder RTS - SE5
Since the air compressor seems to fail normally from BRP and there is a replacement suggested - VIAIR 097C (Part # 00097 from 12 Vac), you would think Spyder would want or suggest as an alternative to their failed product. I understand that modifications are needed to brake line to clear the VIAR unit, which requires bleed brakes?
Question - does anyone know the process of checking support equipment that may have failed - when it is not the compressor? I.E. Fuse; air compressor limit switch; check valve; etc. before taking down everything?
There must be a simple check method as a process of elimination as to the real cause of the failure to not air up? If there is an answer - need to determine how to retrieve this from the forum (directly or indirectly) once answered without searching and searching the posting????? And I don't know whether it can be sent directly to us once posted... HELP!
It's not necessarily a troll Pete; & BBB, it could've been an inadvertent mistake, or an unknowing tick of the 'Requires Thanks & Likes' boxes to see the post by either hensman OR by maybe by RudyB (cos those triggers carry forward until removed! :rolleyes: ) .... altho those demands plus the demand from a new member (with no posting history to enable people to judge their veracity) for others to use an untested email address to reply rather than replying here DOES make it a little more suspect!! :shocked:
But we all really should give new members &/or posters the benefit of the doubt! :lecturef_smilie: So if you see a questionable post (like hensmanj's was before the editing that removed those demands ;) ) then rather than responding at all let alone as requested & so risking spam/scam/worse issues; or replying harshly &/or arbitrarily blocking them from your view, just Report the post so a Mod can check it all out :thumbup: