Removing rear wheel on my Ryker?

OK, I have read the discussion regarding the wheel nut on the Ryker wheel, but I am not sure anyone has discussed the steps at taking the rear wheel off. Maybe they have and someone can point me to it. I have read the owner's manual and it shows two bolts removed from the swing arm and it says to swing the caliber out of the way. It appears that the brake disk is attached to the wheel, correct? I looked all over the YouTube for someone showing the process, to no avail. Just one with removing the front wheels. I am in the process of changing my rear fender and I just want to be sure that I know the correct process for removing the rear wheel to get to the fender. I know some of you have already removed the rear wheel and I believe someone said they have replaced the rear fender? Am I over thinking this and it is as simple as removing two bolts on the swing arm to move the caliber? I know I can probably figure it out once I get the thing started, but if I can pick someone else's mind first, then I can save some time and effort. I am just waiting for the delivery of my torque wrench before starting. I know I can take it apart but I want to be able to do the job and ride it without having to wait for something to be delivered.

I think you are overthinking things, I would say nothing ventured nothing gained. Once you receive your torque wrench remove the clip, wheel nut, and caliper bolts. If the wheel for some reason won’t come off then retighten everything to the torque spec.

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Originally Posted by KyBill

I think you are overthinking things, I would say nothing ventured nothing gained. Once you receive your torque wrench remove the clip, wheel nut, and caliper bolts. If the wheel for some reason won’t come off then retighten everything to the torque spec.

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I guess that if someone on here that has removed the rear wheel does not respond, I will have to just venture forth as usual. Before the Internet, I just did it and learned from my mistakes. With the Internet, I now learn from others' mistakes. Guess I am spoiled. I am not afraid to do it, just wanted to save time by not taking something apart that does not need to come loose. Thanks for responding.

You are correct in removing the 2 bolts holding the caliper. Yes the brake disc is attached to the wheel.
Here is what I posted some time back on changing the fender.

I have replaced the Rally fender on 3 Rykers with the standard fender. It cost around $75 for the full fender and 2 rivets from my dealer. Not really hard to do if you are a little mechanically inclined. You need to remove the rear brake caliper and rear wheel so you can get to the rivets holding the front part of the Rally fender on and drill them out. The new full fender rivets in the same place. You have to remove a few screws and bolts holding the fender on. The lights, and reflectors get moved to the new full fender. Took about an hour on the first one and the others about a half hour.
Decided to replace after riding down my gravel driveway the first time and saw some gravel and dirt on the swing arm and shock. I liked the look of the open Rally fender but the full fender looks fine and keeps everything much cleaner.

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Originally Posted by gskinner

You are correct in removing the 2 bolts holding the caliper. Yes the brake disc is attached to the wheel.
Here is what I posted some time back on changing the fender.

I have replaced the Rally fender on 3 Rykers with the standard fender. It cost around $75 for the full fender and 2 rivets from my dealer. Not really hard to do if you are a little mechanically inclined. You need to remove the rear brake caliper and rear wheel so you can get to the rivets holding the front part of the Rally fender on and drill them out. The new full fender rivets in the same place. You have to remove a few screws and bolts holding the fender on. The lights, and reflectors get moved to the new full fender. Took about an hour on the first one and the others about a half hour.
Decided to replace after riding down my gravel driveway the first time and saw some gravel and dirt on the swing arm and shock. I liked the look of the open Rally fender but the full fender looks fine and keeps everything much cleaner.

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Thank you. I had read your previous post regarding the fender change, but thought maybe there was a bit more to it. Yes, I purchased a new fender on line for about $64 and have the same idea about replacing the Rally fender. The Rally fender looks good, but it isn't for me. I didn't buy the Rally for the fender, but the other items that would cost me more if I was to put them on the 900 ACE. My 250lb torque wrench arrived last night so I am ready to make the modification.
Thanks for responding.

OK, so I proceeded to remove the rear wheel in preparation of swapping out the Rally partial fender with the standard full Ryker rear fender. The rear hub nut was NOT torqued at anything close to the 221lbs mandated in the owner's manual. It came off with little effort. By the way, the 2 1/2 inch socket fit perfectly (Klutch that I picked up on Amazon for about $22). The two long bolts in the swing arm were removed which allowed the brake caliber to be slipped off the disk that was attached to the wheel. The wiring harness runs from the swing arm to the tail lights. Taking off the tail lights was interesting. One screw was missing on the left tail light. There are three bolts/screws holding the fender to the swing arm bracket. The two on the bottom came off easily, bu the top, center one did not have the same clip nut. Instead the center top one was attached with a lock nut which was almost impossible to get a wrench on to hold the nut from turning. It appears that whomever assembled the cycle, ran out of the other slip/clip nuts and substituted a lock nut. I did eventually get it off. With the wheel and fender off, I proceeded to putting the full fender on. The holes in the new fender lined up exactly to the holes of the old. The small screw was easily removed and the rivets drilled out. A quick trip to ACE hardware and I picked up some replacement rivets. That part went smoothly. Assembling the rear went fine after that. Everything went back together. By the time I got it all back together it was dark and had been raining. I pulled the cycle out of the garage and ran it around the block to make sure that the rear brake and lights worked properly. All was good. By the way, I picked up a torque wrench on Amazon for about $35 with free shipping. The 2 1/2 inch socket was $22+ on Amazon and I do not remember how much I paid for a box of rivets. The fender was $64, ordered on the Internet. Even though it took me much longer than it would take a mechanic to change the fender out, if it wasn't for the time I spent trying to get to the one fender nut and busting it loose, I am sure it would not have taken more than an hour or a little more. Oh, and the red retaining clip that fits on the hub was removed by hand, with NO tools as well as replaced by hand. Hope that does not mean that I will lose it going down the road.

Yikes... breakaway torque for nuts is ALWAYShigher than the torque used to tighten the nut.

Sounds like the hardest part was heading down to Ace Hardware and having to shell out ~$9.00 for a small pack of rivets that would have cost you $.50 anywhere else. :)

Ace hardware is the only store in my town. While they carry a large assortment of knickknacks, bolts and screws, everything cost 2x - 4x more than you can buy it elsewhere...

What is the torgue setting for the two brake caliper bolts? The manual doesn't state that only the wheel nut torque. Thanks

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Originally Posted by Hamie

What is the torgue setting for the two brake caliper bolts? The manual doesn't state that only the wheel nut torque. Thanks

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37 +- 3 ft lbs. Per service manual.

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Originally Posted by MDLNB

OK, so I proceeded to remove the rear wheel in preparation of swapping out the Rally partial fender with the standard full Ryker rear fender. The rear hub nut was NOT torqued at anything close to the 221lbs mandated in the owner's manual. It came off with little effort. By the way, the 2 1/2 inch socket fit perfectly (Klutch that I picked up on Amazon for about $22). The two long bolts in the swing arm were removed which allowed the brake caliber to be slipped off the disk that was attached to the wheel. The wiring harness runs from the swing arm to the tail lights. Taking off the tail lights was interesting. One screw was missing on the left tail light. There are three bolts/screws holding the fender to the swing arm bracket. The two on the bottom came off easily, bu the top, center one did not have the same clip nut. Instead the center top one was attached with a lock nut which was almost impossible to get a wrench on to hold the nut from turning. It appears that whomever assembled the cycle, ran out of the other slip/clip nuts and substituted a lock nut. I did eventually get it off. With the wheel and fender off, I proceeded to putting the full fender on. The holes in the new fender lined up exactly to the holes of the old. The small screw was easily removed and the rivets drilled out. A quick trip to ACE hardware and I picked up some replacement rivets. That part went smoothly. Assembling the rear went fine after that. Everything went back together. By the time I got it all back together it was dark and had been raining. I pulled the cycle out of the garage and ran it around the block to make sure that the rear brake and lights worked properly. All was good. By the way, I picked up a torque wrench on Amazon for about $35 with free shipping. The 2 1/2 inch socket was $22+ on Amazon and I do not remember how much I paid for a box of rivets. The fender was $64, ordered on the Internet. Even though it took me much longer than it would take a mechanic to change the fender out, if it wasn't for the time I spent trying to get to the one fender nut and busting it loose, I am sure it would not have taken more than an hour or a little more. Oh, and the red retaining clip that fits on the hub was removed by hand, with NO tools as well as replaced by hand. Hope that does not mean that I will lose it going down the road.

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Thanks for the detail explanation. I just installed rear tire fender on my Rally. Followed your instructions here, it worked out great. I didn't have reviter and most of the hardware stores are close due to the Chinese Virus, luckily I had aluminum flat head machine screws 1-1/4" worked like a charm. I didn't take it for spin yet but all the lights working no codes and was able to put it back in garage. Hopefully one day next week take it out for spin.

Good job. Looks like you have the same luggage box that I have on mine, only I put it up close enough to use the backrest when I am driving.:thumbup:

I had to put mine behind the passenger seat cause I ride with my kids. I am in search of driver backrest unfortunately ones that slingmods have can't use it with passenger seat.