I am quite fond of Speed Bleeders as they make that job ridiculously simple and a solo act to boot. Anyone here ever try them on a Spyder?
http://speedbleeder.com/
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I am quite fond of Speed Bleeders as they make that job ridiculously simple and a solo act to boot. Anyone here ever try them on a Spyder?
http://speedbleeder.com/
Get a quote from another shop. Those that have tried on their own, with experience of properly bleeding brakes, have done far more harm and expense than if they simply paid to have the task accomplished.
Downside of Speedbleeders is any compromise at the threads, that allows the entry of air, creates issues to obtain a proper bleed. With the amount of fluid needed to be pulled through the entire system, vacuum bled, done correctly works very well. Vacuum bleeding is also primarily a single person task, however I do complete every vacuum bleed with a few pump type bleeds at each bleeder fitting as the final bleed before topping up the reservoirs.
I have the Speed Bleeders on my V-Max and they seen to work perfect. Good, tight lever every time. I draw out most of the old flluid from the resivour with a turkey baster first then add new fluid . Rince and repete. Job done. I may get them for the Spyder. Thanksgiving turkey tastes funny though. :joke::joke::joke:
Lew L
Sounds as though you have not used Speed Bleeders. They have a sealing compound on the threads that prevents air from passing and a check valve that allows only the outward flow of fluid. I have never experienced such firm brakes until I started installing Speed Bleeders. At $7 a wheel, they are a bargain.
I'm looking for someone who HAS put Speed Bleeders on their Spyder and what they have to say about doing the job?
my speed bleeder was my wife.;)
I have BUDS and used it to flush my system at the 2 year mark (15 RTL). Following the BUDS procedure, the fluid that came out of the ABS module was much darker and dirtier than what came out of the calipers. Without BUDS, I'm not sure that all that fluid could be changed, since BUDS is the only way to get the ABS module to activate. Dark colored DOT 4 is an indication of absorbed water. Absorbed water will cause corrosion. Corrosion can cause an ABS failure. ABS module is expensive. Since it's only required every 2 years, I think it's a reasonable thing to have done properly to avoid what could be a far more expensive repair later, or worse, a collision in the event of an ABS failure. JMHO
You could lock your brakes a few times on a slippery parking lot, have the ABS kick in and then bleed them conventionally.
Any one have a problem where break indicator light stays on after you release the breaks. The breaks will release and lock, when I turn bike off it beeps as if the breaks are not on even though the breaks are locked