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OK.....It turns over and wants to crank but the screen goes to blue lines and the sound changes.......The battery is 8 months old and has been on a tender the whole time. It has only been sittin for 10 days with fresh 93 gas. I am thinkin its the battery???? Lookin for thoughts n advice. TY ALL In advance.
Double check your battery cable connections. For some weird reason, mine come loose allot. I also had to tap on the starter once. Don't know if that was the actual problem, but it fired up after that.
I'm not certain I understand the difference between "turns over" and "wants to crank" however I tend to agree with bscofield84. Check both ends of the battery ground while you're at it. The frame ground connection on my wife's 2012 RT-L was the culprit when her Spyder suffered the same symptoms you're describing. Good luck.
:agree::agree: with both above …… I wouldn't touch the main ground connection, just check to make sure it's tight …… Remove both connections to the battery …. put STAR washers on ( the kind that has the teeth on the inside …. re-tighten …… if that doesn't work the Battery may have a short or some other issue ….. have dealer fix it ……………….Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Arion
Turning over and "cranking" is the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by TONYO
Sounds like yours is cranking but not firing up.
Don't guess. Find a voltmeter and check the battery.
Then check the voltage while the tender is operating. Your tender might have gone bad.
But FIRST, as mentioned, check the connections AT the battery.
Ill reword it a bit.It turns over n damn near fires up b/4 it goes to the blue screen with lines. Then it keeps turnin over but sounds like its just not firing........Turns over fast. Ima take the battery out and have it tested ASAP. Thanks you guys!
Good info above but curious as to the new battery. OEM replacement other brand...?? If the dash goes does it stop turning over..?? if so it would seem there is a connection or battery problem. If it keeps turning over but does not fire up it could be flooded and you could try the TWO (throttle wide open). Crank it with th TWO for a bit then shut thiings off and try normal start... let us know...:thumbup:
Well then it probably is NOT the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by TONYO
Got plenty of gas in the tank ??
A shop visit might be necessary.
OK....Had the battery tested n it said to replace. Guy said it prolly has a dead cell. It is a batterys plus special.1 Year warrenty.SO Ima send it back n see if a new battery fixes my issue. TY All for the input.When I get the new battery ill update. LATER :)
Your situation is an odd one. Generally, whenever the battery voltage drops below 10.5 the cluster and ECM shutdown. If the battery is bad that usually happens as soon as you push the starter button. I'm thinking in your case, however, there was enough capacity and voltage to enable the start process, but once the starter started cranking the voltage dropped enough for the cluster to shut down, but apparently the starter stayed engaged. Looking at the wiring diagram I don't see how this would be unless a circuit to ground stayed active in the ECM. Before all the computerized systems a starter would crank the engine even when the the voltage dropped to maybe 8 or 9 or less volts.Quote:
Originally Posted by TONYO
Was the battery charged up correctly before it was tested? It's possible the battery is OK but just run down enough to fail the test. Best to fully charge then perform a voltage and load test.
OK Update.....Got a new battery..........Cranked great! Runs like a new one. Thanks Everbody for the help/advice.