Putting a resistor across the + & - wires seems to negate the voltage savings of an LED.
Asking for a friend...:D
Putting a resistor across the + & - wires seems to negate the voltage savings of an LED.
Asking for a friend...:D
Somewhere on this forum, was posted a reply that said the linked bulbs will stop hyper-flash. I don't remember where it was posted, but I did write the link down so that if I ever needed it, I could order some and try it. I have no idea where the thread it was posted on is now.
https://www.amazon.com/EverBright-Ex...5617762&sr=8-1
When SpyderPops installed a bunch of LED's I had the hyperflash and he somehow he punched some buttons on the left controls on the handlebar and stopped the hyperflash. I don't remember the correct button sequence he did though. Maybe someone whill chime in shortly with the answer.
I tried that repeatedly on my 2019 and I couldn’t get it to work. If you’re trying to save electricity remember that the bike has a 90a alternator, so you’re not likely to see a significant gain by installing LEDs.
Yeah, the hyperflash “fix” worked ok for our models, Ex-Rocket, but does not work for the later 18+ models.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket
Pete
I just put those LEDs in my 2018 and they hyper flash. The programming for earlier models does not work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwolf
I might be the one that posted about those bulbs. I was hoping that the "no CAN-BUS error" meant "no hyperflash", but was also prepared to take other steps, if necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwolf
I got the hyperflash. I went through Lamonster's procedure, it did not help. I got a pair of 6Ω resistors. Installed properly (across the turn signal leads like another bulb), still did not help. Tried the two of them in series (for a 12Ω load), no help. Tired them in parallel (for a 3Ω load), STILL no help.
I noticed that the signals seemed to operate normally until the engine was running. Then they would hyperflash. I had one more inspiration and tried Lamonster's procedure with the engine running, not just with the key ON.
THE HYPERFLASH IS GONE!! :thumbup:
I don't know what differences there might be on your 2018, but this worked on my wife's 2017 RT-S.
The resistors are still installed. Not sure if I would be motivated enough to remove them and try again.
Since they are working fine (for now), I will probably just leave them alone.
Did you try the remedy with the engine running? That is what worked for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoking1127
.
Sequence didn't work on my 2019 F3S ...
I did not work for my 2018 RT-L. I am returning to LEDs to Amazon today, unless someone comes up with a program sequence for 2018+ Spyders. I do not want to install resistors and that defeats one of the advantages of LEDs.
I'd go ahead and put the resisors in. Have you tried in series with the bulbs ?
In my opinion, the main advantage to LED's in a motor vehicle is the brightness, and the long long life, the power savings isn't really an issue with the engine running.
Now in a sailboat, that's another story.
Hyper flash is kinda sexy. I defeated it on my spyder by adding a relay in line to work with the lights but I was adding lights. Dunno if that's a fix for all... 2016 until I discovered the programing. One may be able to add an auxiliary bulb in line which is what I fixed the hyper flash before learning the procedure. Watch this video to see what the dash lights do. If you wait long enough you may see it. I had someone here tell me that it worked on their 2018+. This dash light flash is visible in Lamont's video as well. If you can see it, the fix might work. I don't know anyone here in Greenville SC who owns a Spyder much less try one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q1CHHRARuA
I ended up installing 8 ohm 50 W resistors and all is good. The LED are very bright. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoking1127
No metal in the area behind the tail lights so I mounted the resistors on nylon standoffs so air can flow around them.
Fixed amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=8+0hm+50+w+resistor
Yes, you can certainly save some energy by switching to LEDs, but on a Spyder, it's irrelevant. The alternator is capable of putting out so much more than the bike needs, so there is no need to scrimp on a couple of amps here and there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoking1127
There are advantages to LEDs that are a bit more important than energy savings.
1. They light up quicker. Depending on the bulb/LED, it might be up to half a second quicker. "Half a second?" Yeah, it's not much, but every little bit counts.
2. They usually last a lot longer.
3. If proper LEDs are used, they are usually brighter.
4. They cost more money, so you can justify bragging about them. :thumbup:
.
I highly favor LED lighting, but will not add resistors to be able to do so.
1. Do not like the heat
2. No current draw improvement
3. I've added LED turns when a M/C flasher can be replaced with a timed flash, rather than based upon load
4. Flashers are illuminated briefly, so LED life not usually a benefit. Great benefit for tail/brake, etc.
Regarding hyperflash, most (all?) states have adopted SAE standards of 60-120 flashes per minute.
5. You can strobe LEDs. No can do with incandescent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve W.
Illustrated:
https://youtu.be/C_muSpk29Tg