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Last Friday I traveled 200 km at night on poorly lit road and noticed very poor lighting.
Then in addition to changie the bulbs for more powerful ones I would like to shine inside the headlights that have been matt.
Does anyone remember a DIY on this topic?
I remember seeing a video several months ago about opening the headlight assembly but don't know where it is now. What I do recall is that it is a very involved process and way beyond what I would want to take on. Perhaps easier to just add additional driving/fog lights. Some really light things up.....
Best is to add driving lights.. there are some nice LED types and you can also change the oem bulbs to LED. Seem they are the choice but there is also the HID. I added driving lights and fogs and it does the trick....:thumbup:
What kind of matt are you seeing inside the headlight?Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalva
Let's say that the crystal has lost transparency and is opaque. It seems that the glass of the focus in its interior part has been "matt"Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Lamonster Garage has a great video on headlight install, disassembly etc. Click on the Lamonster link and search lighting. i want the lights he sells, just not sure I wanna do the install. Looks like a big job.
Good luck.
Hi Jarred, I have a 2018 F3L. I installed the Lamonster fogs with halo rings. Not to bad a job however the right side was a little tighter than the left.
Joe
Curious and trying to fully understand and offer ideas.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalva
The RT series headlight has an outer plastic shell with a clear plastic lens on the forward side.
Additionally, the RT series utilizes a projector lens that sits just forward of the bulb. The projector lens, I am unsure of the material it is made from.
I would believe, that if the light assembly were removed, and the bulb were removed, it should be possible to carefully clean, wipe and maybe polish a bit the projector lens inside surface.
The projector lens surface I mention is next to the bulb itself and sees the most heat. Any work accomplished would need to be done through the small opening of the bulb mount, so soft cloths on a non scratching stick of some type would be needed.
If the hazing is on another surface, there may be no recourse unless you replace the headlight assembly, or use the techniques posted on the internet tha show how to remove the outer lens by warming the entire headlight assembly, not specific to Spyders, but rather many sport compact and truck guys do this to tint the clear lens after removing.
Thank you very much to all.
I will start changing the OEM lights by LED and I will see if it improves.
Add driving or fog lights, here, in Spain is not an option because they are not allowed if the bike was not homologated like that.
I'm going to study the threads of lights and light bulbs.
Thank again.
If I'm not mistaken, the haziness you see is on the OUTSIDE of the transparent plastic headlight cover. This happens eventually with all modern headlights that have the plastic cover (not just motorcycles). There is a protective film on that plastic cover which eventually becomes opaque; it has to be removed and renewed using one of the kits made specifically for that. I've done it on my two vehicles but haven't had to do it yet on my Spyders.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalva
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrlIhRea8u8
I had that issue with one of my headlights. I used a coat hanger with a small piece of rag attached and some rubbing alcohol to clean the inside of the lens. I have no idea what caused it. I accessed it through the back of the housing. It was not easy, but do-able. You can bend the coat hanger to reach the front of the projector lens. Mine was not inside the projector, but on the front of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalva
There was a soft recall here in oz if you complained about the fog they would replace the lights.fit led you will not be dissapointed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I will check where the problem really is, outside or inside. Actually an exterior polish would not hurt either, so I do not lose anything trying.
Thank you.
If the OEM bulbs replacement and exterior polish doesn't go, this will be my next step.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel The Biker
Thanks!
Hi StuQuote:
Originally Posted by stu
Tried to get BRP to change my low beam (fog lights for you US based ryders).
Mine are 'fogged' up. The first question asked was who did all servicing on the bike. My answer was - where in the service manual is the schedule for servicing the headlights. Their answer was, sorry not our problem.
Cheers
Frank
This is what they look like
Did you try redoing the exterior coating on the lens?Quote:
Originally Posted by mcalva
Not yet. :opps:Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPete
That REALLY looks like my light 'glass' went after about 36 months - it was a recognised issue on the 2013's here in Aus, & BRP replaced the glass on those and the hi-beams.... mind you, the hi-beams had almost melted all the way thru right in the focus spot, so they really hadta fix them; but the lo-beams (where the Fog lights go in the USA) were just heavily fogged like yours Mcalva!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fearless
Frank, I think you should take that one or two steps further. Your question was valid and you deserve an answer. If it's under warranty and they can't show you what service you were supposed to do that you didn't do, then it's on them, not you. I had this come up several years ago with a Yamaha jetski. We were on a Florida lake when the jetski sank -- all but the instrument panel and handlebars went underwater. Once it was "rescued," we took it to a Yamaha dealer who was able to restore it very quickly by taking out the plugs and cranking the engine over, shooting geysers of water 40' in the air (very entertaining BTW) and there weren't even any residual problems. The cause of the sinking was a hose fitting that had come loose somewhere under some panel, completely out of sight. The hose connected the water pump to the jet, so essentially the engine had pumped the inside of the jetski full of water, causing it to sink. Yamaha denied coverage, saying it was a maintenance issue, that I had failed to tighten the hose clamps. This really annoyed me because there was no way anyone could have even known there was a hose clamp under there and you'd have to remove the seat and six or seven screws to remove a fiberglass panel even to look. So ... I asked the same question you did, where does it say in my manual that I have to remove this panel and tighten a hose clamp? You SOBs didn't even tell me there WAS a hose clamp in there! They couldn't answer me. Suddenly Yamaha decided this was covered under warranty! After that, I guarantee I opened that panel every year before taking it out! Being on a sinking jetski in alligator-infested waters is not an ideal experience.