Printable View
Brake lights were working until I plugged in the trailer, now they don't. :gaah:
Running lights, hazards, and turn signals work all work on the trailer and on the bike when connected and not connected.
I am using the RT harness (square plug) and the trailer has all LED bulbs.
Before I go tearing apart the Spyder I wanted to ask the experts what your opinions are.
Thanks in advance.
And, is this the very first time this trailer has been plugged in, or has this all worked before.
I would have to ask if you actually removed the fuse and checked it, or just gave it a visual. Sometimes, it is not clear that those fuses have blown just by looking. I know that you said your hazards work, and some trailer lights, but still, I would start by removing and testing F2 and F4 in the right fuse box before I tore into it.
Yes the first time I have plugged it into the Spyder. It has been towed with a car successfully.
I did pull the fuse and tested with emergency flashers (same fuse).
What fuse did you check, the brake light circuit? If so, that does not feed the trailer. Is there a fuse in F4, right fuse box? That feeds power to the trailer lights. If it is there and good then you'll need to start doing some more trouble shooting. All the trailer lights are fed from a battery feed through relays in the wiring isolator. You might have a break in the brake light circuit, either between the bike harness and the isolator, or between the isolator and trailer lights.
Any additional farkle lights?
You also need to verify the pinout of the trailer matches your harness. You can get a harness tester at any shop or Harbor Freight. It has LEDs. That will tell you if you have power. If so might be a BRP interface toasted. They are known to fail.
If you UNPLUG the trailer, do the brake lights then work with it disconnected ??
If NOT, forget the trailer and troubleshoot the brake light failure on the Spyder.
Sometimes coincidences can drive you nuts.
Friday I had a test ride and I did some breaking under normal conditions around my neighborhood.
The Spyder freaked out and went into limp mode and the Spyder was grounded for the holiday.
Tonight I am tracing wires, but I think this could be a simple break light switch gone bad? Haven't got there yet but with the recent error it seems plausible. Thoughts?
May just be dirty with crud tending to hold it closed. If it stays closed, like if you keep your foot on on the brake pedal, Nanny does get upset. Make sure everything around the switch is clean and it's working properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by markyodo
You did check to make sure fluid level is correct, right?
So this is new information. So ignore my advice I gave you on facebook because it no longer matches your symtoms.
To be clear the hazard lights work. So that just leaves the brake light switch or wiring. I would bet on the brake light switch. So first thing to do is take a look at it. Could be a simple as small rock or mud stuck in it. Not letting the switch close. If nothing visually wrong with the switch. Get a multimeter and test it.
Final update and resolution: Before I had a chance to further diagnose anything the brake lights just started working again. I used some compressed air and cleaned the switch. I will still be getting a trailer light tester to make sure my wiring is ok before I attempt another hookup and I am calling the dealer to see how much it will be to have them do a BUDS reading just to make sure there are no outstanding issues.
You might want to inquire about the price of a new switch too.Quote:
Originally Posted by markyodo
And if the trigger point is adjustable, might want to check that too......to be sure it isn't right on the ragged edge.