Reoccurring not constant code & check engine light?

Yup not constant & little screwy. Currently code P1174 (bank 2 too lean) & check engine light will appear one or other, swap, &/or both but nothing consistent. :dontknow: :dontknow: :mad: :banghead:
Mileage & findings summary:
52524m stalling at low idle,12-1400 red lights & parking lot speeds <5mph even some off ramps slowing to merge.
52945m new fuel filter.
58388m P1175 (bank 2 too rich) & C1290 (VCM)
58401m P1174 (bank2 too lean)
58403m new battery DIY; dealer did new starter, new plugs, & new purge valve assembly.
58411m back to me.
59359m stalls 4~5 times in downtown lights, (not usual route) no codes no check engine light.
59458m check engine light no code. added Lucas injector cleaner.
59488m swaps P1174 & no light.
59492m both.
59500m light no code.L
59503m both maybe a 1/4 tank left running Shell 93 (supposedly ethanol free) & only filling to the pumps auto stop, learned may have been overfilling tank, which is what killed purge valve & began stalls; & of course it didn’t start this till out of warranty. :barf:
Any ideas suggestions please, getting oil changed this week. The tech hopefully will see more with buds.

I'm thinking maybe with previous purge valve and canister issue you may have gotten carbon
granules from the old canister into the purge valve.

On my STS, as a preventative measure, I replaced the Vacuum hoses and Plug wires.
Also did a Canisterectomy to eliminate Purge valve and Gas Over fill and odor issues.

Wish you all the best on solving this problem.
David C.

I had similar symptoms before my MAP Sensor went belly up.
Keep an eye out for a P0107 or P0108 code getting thrown.
If it fails, you'll get a hard malfunction light and the motor will only run around 4k.
Not something you want to run out and pre-purchase, MAP sensors run close to two bills, but are relatively easy to swap out.
You can check resistance on the ECM pins to verify.
Good Luck

You didn't mention if the vacuum hoses to the MAP sensor have been replaced. Do that next and inspect that rubber boot for the throttle bodies for cracks. If you still have the original BRP spark plug wires, they have to go, too. Get the ones from BajaRon.

Sorry late reply still no update, The vacuum hoses were changed to silicons, not sure on the map hoses, plug wires were done & yet when I was dropping it off, the first thing the tech found was a short in the rear cylinder plug boot, previously installed by his co-worker, some 700+ miles ago.

FYI update got back from shop, here is what was listed on receipt as is
2/29/20~4/9/20
Found leaks @ piston seals & Oil rings
Parts:
Valve cover gasket
Piston lining
O ring
Cylinder sleeve
Hydraulic piston
O-ring
Piston lining
Spark plug
Cable as y
Cable as y
Tuflok plastic riv.

Additionally

piston lining had 2 different # & price, not just listed twice.
Replaced oil-(change w/o filters.) oil was drained with hydraulic piston replacement. :yes::yes::riding:Happy to have it back, now almost like Cruzr Joe
:roflblack:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...place-to-go-to

Just which Hydraulic piston & lining is that?

Part # 420656125 piston & 420431350, 420431360 linings

:thumbup: For the SE5 I now see. Obviously unrelated to the original issue. Why did they fit those parts? Just curious.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Freddy

:thumbup: For the SE5 I now see. Obviously unrelated to the original issue. Why did they fit those parts? Just curious.

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Somewhat related as there was a oil leak from previous work.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ranny-heads-up

:gaah: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :barf: Happening again:sour: thankfully not stalling, but blasted crazy code & light now at 64176 both P1174 & ck engine light 33m later just light, 64 308m both 5m later: light no code :dontknow: :dontknow: What would trip the check engine light that has no active code?! Please
Additional information: primarily Shell circle K 93

Not gonna help much, except maybe with the degree of concern... :p

Just remember that the 'Check Engine' Light might mean something sometimes; but it's also the default 'catch all' warning light that the computer will illuminate instead of saying 'What The...!!' or 'Fudged If I Know?!' :dontknow: . :gaah:

So when there's no active code associated with that particular light, basically that's saying that even the on-board computers have no idea what the problem is - which could mean that it's either too trivial a problem to stress over all that much :dontknow: or it's such a complex cascade of compounding issues that the computer just has no bloody idea of what code to choose/put up and instead, it's gone into 'auto-gibber' as a result!! :gaah:

Has anyone looked at/checked the O2 sensor/s &/or their wiring leads & plugs?? :rolleyes:

Yes & yes tech saw fuel pump had occasional lower pressure still nothing conclusive

is there an easy way to clear a check eng. light ??? with out buying any of the Can-Am high dollar programming stuff ?? no way I would ever buy any of that stuff .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sledge

is there an easy way to clear a check eng. light ??? with out buying any of the Can-Am high dollar programming stuff ?? no way I would ever buy any of that stuff .

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Can not force a clear (That I know of ) can clear codes that will let the light turn off**till next whatever. Understanding is check engine light a catch all for the many drive line sensors & respective program fixed limits. Code give general ideas where to look, bout it. You can try disconnecting battery (might loose trip meters) Sorry all I got as is still on going.