Found part during oil change

I completed the first Oil Change on my 2011 RT (I purchased it used so it may be the first oil change - Who knows)
I FOUND an Extra part inside the oil pan magnet. See the attached photo and tell me where it belongs and hopefully it was not an indication that the engine is self destroying from the inside. Maybe it was dropped in during manufacturing process and nobody noticed or so I hope. It is a small black color bolt a bit larger than a rice grain it has threads on the outise and a hex impression on one side and it does not appear to have been damaged since it was stuck to the oil pan plug magnet.:mad::shocked:

Finless Bob knows about this.

Not sure if this thread is anyway related to your issue? But I would take it to the dealer to check out.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...l+drain+magnet

This thread maybe more like what you have..

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...l+drain+magnet

Thanks PMK. hopefully Finless Bob will see this question and provides some sage advise to solve this mistery in a positive manner that does not include a mayor expense!

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Originally Posted by Oldtimer51

Thanks PMK. hopefully Finless Bob will see this question and provides some sage advise to solve this mistery in a positive manner that does not include a mayor expense!

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https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...l+drain+magnet

So, the dealer contacted BRP to see if they would cover the engine repair for the extra screw found in the oil plug during the 3500-miles oil change and in typical BRP disregard for their customers they denied the repair becuase the motorcycle is too OLD! The engine has original 3500 miles how is that TOO OLD?
We will drive it untill we are tired of it and will trade it to another or the same dealer since they sold it to me without doing any services. They could had found the extra screw since it was probably going around the engine for a long time ago and soon after it was purchased by the original first owner. Wondering if anyone is aware of any pending Class Action Law Suits against this company that cover all the MANY failures and the poor quality of several of their products. This is not an isolated occurrance. If you read many of the pages on this Forum you can see all the types of issues owners had dealt with right from the start of their production including all kinds of computer codes, failure modes, fires, steering assistant motors failures (DSS) just to name a few. If you have any leads or are interested to join the search for a good law firm willing to handle all these cases reply to this post and we coordinate our efforts. No taking it anymore! YOU CAN FILE ANY DEFECTS OR SAFETY CONCERNS AT THIS LINK: https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls THE NATIONAL Highway Safety Administration. Be as specific as possible when you file a report. The more people file the more more your concerns are likely to be investigated.

I went ahead and filed the complaint with NHSA ( Very fast and simple process)
Complaint Number: 11320128
Vehicle Identification Number: 2BXJBKC1XBV000926
Your Vehicle's Make Model and Model Year: CAN-AM SPYDER RT 2011
Note: Your VIN, make, model, and year are all protected under the Privacy Act.
What part of your car was affected? Power Train
What happened?
I completed the first Oil Change on my 2011 RT TRIKE (motorcyle) (I purchased it from a dealer used so it may be the first oil change ever performed since it only has 3500 miles. I FOUND a small screw( like a hex screw) part inside the oil pan magnet. See the attached photo. No aware that the engine is self destroying from the inside. It is a small black color bolt a bit larger than a rice grain it has threads on the outiside and a hex impression on one side and it does not appear to have been damaged since it was stuck to the oil pan plug magnet all this time. After further reading the Spyder Owners Forum we learned this situation has happened to other owners. In the new ones the BRP company paid for the engine repair because they were under warranty. Mine has expired warranty but only has 3700 original miles in the odometer. The small screw is a part that regulates the amount of oil flow into the rear cylinder head. This is a two cylinder engine. A dealer contacted the BRP company and they refused to cover the cost of the repair. The engine apperas to still operate correctly but some of the information posted mentions that the engine will eventually start leaking oil along one of the cilinder heads gaskets.
Files you uploaded.
small screw.jpg
rtaImage1.jpg
When did this happen? 03/10/2020
Was there a Crash? No
Was there a Fire? No
Was there an injury or fatality? No
How fast were you going? (in mph) 0
About how many miles were on your vehicle at the time of the incident? 3500
First Name: XXXXXXXX
Selections made -

NHTSA may share my complaint with the vehicle manufacturer prior to the start of an investigation or recall, and in the interest of safety.: Yes (box unchecked)

I wish to receive safety recall alerts from NHTSA: Yes (box unchecked)

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Originally Posted by Oldtimer51

So, the dealer contacted BRP to see if they would cover the engine repair for the extra screw found in the oil plug during the 3500-miles oil change and in typical BRP disregard for their customers they denied the repair becuase the motorcycle is too OLD! The engine has original 3500 miles how is that TOO OLD?

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It's too old from the perspective of time, not miles. Almost all vehicle warranties are time limited. This is probably the second oil change. The first would have been done at around 600 miles per the maintenance schedule.

This is not a safety issue. Your complaint to NHTSA isn't going to go anywhere. You need to see if the Consumer Protection Bureau will be of any help.

You realize, don't you, anytime you buy a used anything you are always buying a "pig in a poke"? I'm sorry for your situation, but unless you can prove the seller knew, or should have known, that the screw was in the crankcase you have no recourse against anyone.

I had a CB radio that I bought as new old stock from a reseller, not a dealer, that was not watertight and got wet and deteriorated inside and died. BRP said sorry! You couldn't have asked for a more clear example of a manufacturing defect.

Business as usual at BRP.

After buying USED cars and motorcycles all my life for 45 plus years never have I seen an engine that has missing or have loose parts inside the engine. I am not asking the dealer to do anything because it was obious that they never did any maintenance to this Spyder. If they have done an oil change they would had found the screw and probably ignored it and never tell the buyer anyway. They are in business to make money that is it.
It is the responsibilty of the manufacturer to deal with this issue because this is not the first time this happens to some of these engines. It does not matter the years but the total miles of the engine has been in operation. Engines are not designed to fall appart by just seating in a garage. They are designed to do work for long periods of time. There is not reason to make excuses for any company that makes millions from selling these defective products no matter how much a person likes the brand. I enjoy riding the Spyder but I still think it should be repaired under the company direction to protect their reputation at least. I also own other motorcycles and never had any troubles of this nature. It is different to compare a radio to an engine. The cost of the engine alone will be in the thousands versus a few hundreds for a radio! Let's see how many other owners are interested in bringing their complaints forward to the NHSA. An engine failing in the middle of a highway at high speed would be a safety issue in my view. The same as the failing brake pedal in the 2020 models is a mayor safety issue and those are being recalled now. So, it is all a matter of perspective in the end.

I agree, it is a manufacturing defect. But BRP, and others, offer a warranty that says they will fix factory defects if brought to their attention within a specific time period, a time period agreed to by the original purchaser. You knew, or should have known, there was no warranty on the Spyder when you bought it. BRP did their part. They covered the machine for the original agreed upon time, whether it was 2 years or 5 years. You're just upset that the super bargain you bought is turning out to not be a super bargain. That's the way of capitalism, isn't it? Even when a defect causes injury states have time limits as to how long the manufacturer can be held liable.

Yes, it would be good PR if BRP were to work out some accommodation to fix this part. But face it, you are one small pea in the entire stew pot and they have decided for whatever reason to not come to your aid. You say above it's all about money. That's true, but that's capitalism, right? In the capitalistic world sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. Unless you can by considerate persuasion, not by threats, get them to help you out, you lose.

It's not uncommon for manufacturers to offer 'goodwill' warranty repairs under such circumstances to the original owner. It is uncommon for it to be offered to a subsequent owner, sadly.

Bummer, but if there is no obvious damage, then how would BRP fix what isn't broke, or 'make whole' to the owner. The legal issue is basic, one has to show harm.

Ok, so BRP is not willing to offer warranty 7 years after the warranty calendar time ran out.

You have three choices.
1) Do no repairs and ride it until failure

2) Get it repaired

3) trade it in on a new whatever you decide upon.

Option 4, find the Finless Bob topic about this and sort out your best plan. Pretty certain the setscrew is a plug for one of the oil galleys. Bob detailed pretty much all the important info. Reinstalling the oil galley plug is simple, accessing the area adds time.

Isn't this this a drain passage plug that goes under the cover on the right side of the engine. As I remember (and I don't remember so good any more) wasn't this an easy fix? It happened to Bob's 2011 also. Easy fix but not necessarily cheap.

Oldtimer, I see you have already seen Finless's thread about this same problem back in 2015. The info in that thread are about the best suggestions we can offer. I'm not sure but I think you can open up that part of the engine without having to take it out of the Spyder.

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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder

Oldtimer, I see you have already seen Finless's thread about this same problem back in 2015. The info in that thread are about the best suggestions we can offer. I'm not sure but I think you can open up that part of the engine without having to take it out of the Spyder.

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Correct, in simplest terms, the clutch cover is removed, it says remove the clutch also, but wonder if the location can be degreased, and the setscrew installed with a ball end driver.

Get it fixed, ride and enjoy. Stinks, but far less expensive than trashing an engine bearing from lowered oil pressure.

The local Spyder dealer asked for $550 to open the engine. (IE: take it apart and open your wallet later for the put it togther now than it is in our shop). I have learned a long time ago that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." It runs fine now and has probably been running fine for the last 5000 miles so far and if that screw was so critical to the engine operation they would/could had done a better job designing it so it would not come appart by itself with minimum usage.

Yes, this was a bad decision to buy a "used" Spyder. Another lucky person will get this spyder back one of these days minus one essential screw missing!
By the way BRP in the past has offered to pay for the Parts and Seals required for the repair. Now they can not afford to do that either.

Just as a comparison I purchased a "USED" 1989 Nissan Pathfinder from a local dealer. No warranties included. The transmission cluncked out a little over 51K miles. The Nissan Dealer could not repair the transmission. They called the Nissan Regional Manager and they sent a NEW $3000 Transmission and paid for all the installation and even paid the towing truck. That is good quality Service and staying behind your products. I have purchased several Nissans after that just to pay the favor!

Well, I wish I could say I feel that complimentary about Nissan factory service. I have a 2005 Maxima, which I bought new, and while it was still in warranty the audio system would not play if the car had been out in the cold, ~32°, all night. The dealer changed several parts but nothing they changed fixed the problem. Finally the regional rep said that was enough. "Besides, he doesn't drive the car when it's cold." The audio would work once the car warmed up. Do you think the dealer techs would leave the car outside and work on it in the cold? No, they brought it in and of course could never experience the problem because the car was warm. It still does it except it only has to be ~40° or colder now.

The clear coat started peeling off when it was about 4 years old. Nissan wouldn't begin to consider repainting it. It wasn't covered under the extended warranty.

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Originally Posted by Oldtimer51

The local Spyder dealer asked for $550 to open the engine. (IE: take it apart and open your wallet later for the put it togther now than it is in our shop). I have learned a long time ago that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." It runs fine now and has probably been running fine for the last 5000 miles so far and if that screw was so critical to the engine operation they would/could had done a better job designing it so it would not come appart by itself with minimum usage

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Now that you know what needs to be done to fix it, as explained in Finless' thread, see what the dealer will charge now. Didn't Finless say it was only about 2 hour job? You know, that screw may have been loose for only 50 miles. There's no way of knowing. Didn't Finless have over 9000 miles on his machine when it came loose. As you read in the Finless' thread, if you read the whole thing, there is a conflict between the one user's experience and an understanding of the role that screw plays. If I were you, I'd either fix it myself, or have an independent m/c mechanic fix it. Getting to that side of the engine isn't that complicated I don't think.

If you don't have the service manual you can download one for about $15 to $20 from canammanuals.com. Any competent mechanic can do the fix if he has the manual.

To me i would fix it one way or another ,if not i would not feel right to drive it .

So far I put another 3000 miles since I found the screw in the oil pan. So I assume it is not as vital or it would has self destroyed by now. Ready to trade it in! And move on to a new hobby hopefully not related to #BRP.