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We hit a large pothole and I had a open can of Dr. Pepper in the drink holder. Yep, DP all over the dash and switches:banghead:. I've cleaned it up but now the funkin' frunck won't open. Could the key switch be covered with sugar? It opened just fine before our little ride. How do I get the key switch out to clean it up. Does the dash come off without disassembling the whole damn front end? Thanks for any help you can give me. It's a 2015 RTS
I think it would take a LOT of soda to Gum up the Switch. Start by having some one press on the hood at the top in the middle, ( while you turn the key ) they should probably try to lift it also ( there is no spring un-less you added the one I created to POP the hood open ). I think you could safely spray some WD-40 into the lock, to loosen up any gumminess ………….. good luck …. Mike :ohyea:
A dry type lubricant, such as 3-in-1 Lock Dry-Lube, Wal-Mart carries it may be a better choice for lock mechanisms. WD-40 is a great product but not the best for lock innards. Best of luck
On a 2015, is the frunk latch release cable or electric? The seat latch works fine, but I'll be putting in emergency pulls on both latches.
Very good idea on the release latches - I have two on mine and did them shortly after I bought it ….. I did this BECAUSE the release is CABLE. I agree that the dry Lube is best - however if your switch is " Gummied up " I don't think that dry lube will do anything to get rid of that ….. jmho …. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by Revalden
Honestly, with soda kind of everywhere, myself I would have given the entire bike a good scrub with soap and water. Then as the Blueknight suggested, spray some WD into the key switch and cycle it. Doubtful it penetrated into the lock to foul it, otherwise the entire switch would be inop. Even lube the push in and turn with a touch of WD.
I too agree that dry lube is great for locks, however the Spyders key inserts vertically, and water, even from rain will enter the lock tumblers. A bit of WD occasionally should lessen the likelihood of corrosion of a stuck lock assembly. If it matters, on our 14 RTS, now over 5 years old, typically it gets a shot of WD in the key switch several times per year. No ill effects as of yet.
Chances are, as the BK stated, simply push down on the frunk hood while turning the key to unlock it. Very possible it is just sticking a bit.
All the best with it, and whether here on SL or on some of the FB groups, there is some cool ideas on secondary latch releases as a means to ideas if needed.