Considering the body panels needing to be removed, plus the windscreen being removed, replace the arm and reassemble, plan for two hours.
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I have a 2019 rtl is this a problem for all spyders with windshields?
If your 19 has an ARM that raises and lowers it ( and it does )...... It probably has the same one that has been used since 2010 ..... and that has been failing since about 2011 ..... the design is structurally weak... For some reason an engineer @ BRP designed it with SIX reliefs ( three on each side ) this dramatically weakened the part and causes failure due to cracking. Had they NOT created those reliefs I don't think the part would have failed, even if it is a CAST part. .... Thankfully BRP will now sell you the ARM alone .... Until recently you had to buy the ENTIRE motor assembly, just to get the ARM ..... However it's still the same Cr*py ARM , so that too will fail..... I suggest you look into what " noboot " sells to fix this issue ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:... Bad news, you have the same ARM I just looked it up @..cheapcycleparts.com ..... Annnnnnnnnnnnnnd BRP doesn't have the ARM as a separate part !!!! :gaah:
Thank you for the info
Well I have just read this thread from the start to date, and it was with some trepidation that I ventured out to check my windshield arm on my 2017 RTS I took a small led torch with a thin bendable extension protruding from the base which was perfect for getting in and around the mechanism allowing me to thoroughly examine the offending article. Phew what a relief at this moment in time it's just fine, well that was a relief to say the least, the windshield itself is also absolutely rigid no movement in any direction whatsoever. Of course I'm not deluding myself after reading this thread I know it's probably only a matter of time.:yikes:
So from now on I will be checking it on a regular basis, one thing in my favour is I have just recently changed out the very large touring windshield for the much smaller sports version, simply to improve the airflow a must I feel in the hot weather, with me being a bit of a short "arse" I could only look through the touring shield but now at least I can lower it sufficiently to see over the top and get some much needed airflow, and of course a smaller shield is going to mean less pressure on the offending arm, which may prolong it's eventual demise. :pray:
Hi,
After 40,000 kms the windscreen arm broke on my 2011 RT SE. Looks like I will be chasing a stronger replacement part from Noboot also.
Cheers,
Allan
I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.
I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.
Worked well. Highly recommend.
This is where I'm stuck. Once I get one 4mm hex head screw out of one side of a bracket, there's nothing to stop the brass barrel from turning when trying to remove the other screw from the other side. Can I just punch it through from the side with the screw removed?
I went ahead and punched it out.
Yep that thread locker hold them small screws in pretty good!
Take your time on when you remove the screws on the top of the gears and when prying the cover off. You may need a bit of heat to get the screws out or risk stripping the screws heads.
Does it matter that the new arm lacks the black washers at the pivot point?
You need to remove and install the sleeves on the new arm.
Okay, now I'm stuck again. I got the mechanism put back together and the windshield bracket mounted to the arms. But when I went to check the functioning of the mechanism, it went up okay, but won't come back down. So now the arm is jammed tight against the dashboard cowling and I can't budge anything.
Can you still move the top cover??
Can you remove battery power and pull it down??
You maybe also be able to run the arm motor off a 12 vdc source to raise it up and down. But would need jumpers to make it happen.
The dash cover is trapped. I think releasing the switch would stop the electric motor running. Turning off the ignition certainly would.
Maybe I blew a fuse; I'll check that.
Isn't there supposed to be a travel limiter to prevent this from happening? If so, where / what is that? Obviously didn't work this time.
The limiter is related to the magnet on the side that was taped up. Hope its still there?
It looks like the motor goes back to the WPM module
You did place it back into the correct position correct on the gears? Sorry have to ask questions.
Did you put the magnet back on the shaft in the same spot too?
I did tape on the magnet so as not to lose it, but it's possible that it fell off as I was reinstalling the shaft and arm.
I put dabs of paint on all the pieces as instructed so I'm fairly confident it was properly oriented.
I'm concerned that if I pull down too hard on the billet arm, I'll break something in the gears. Should I be?
I wonder if the magnet is missing or the shaft was off a slot? I am sure you marked it correctly. But that magnet could have fallen out??
Can you put pressure on the top cover versus trying to pull the arm down?? I guess you could try it but I would be very careful as you cannot just buy the gears. You have to buy the whole module if something breaks.
Let me see if I can move mine since I have mine still in pieces..