Rear tire change, unable to get caliper back on

2021 F3Limited

I've changed a lot of tires and have had a bit of trouble with some getting the brake pads back over the rotor on some. But I've never had one that I could NOT get back on regardless of what I did. I even bought a 'piston retractor' tool.

The pads just will not part enough to allow the rotor to fit between them. The parts guy asked if it was possible this was one of the new style pistons that screw in; I told him I didn't think so. But now I wonder. I have no experience with a piston that does not simply push back, usualy with the assistance of a large flat blade screw driver. So any help would be appreciated. The piston has two 'indents' that look like might fit a pin wrench but trying to turn it with a pair of needle nose didn't work. Of course EVERYTHING is secured with yellow 'loc-tite' of some kind so that wouldn't surprise me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by McRuss

2021 F3Limited

I've changed a lot of tires and have had a bit of trouble with some getting the brake pads back over the rotor on some. But I've never had one that I could NOT get back on regardless of what I did. I even bought a 'piston retractor' tool.

The pads just will not part enough to allow the rotor to fit between them. The parts guy asked if it was possible this was one of the new style pistons that screw in; I told him I didn't think so. But now I wonder. I have no experience with a piston that does not simply push back, usualy with the assistance of a large flat blade screw driver. So any help would be appreciated. The piston has two 'indents' that look like might fit a pin wrench but trying to turn it with a pair of needle nose didn't work. Of course EVERYTHING is secured with yellow 'loc-tite' of some kind so that wouldn't surprise me.

---

It IS! :thumbup:

You'll need to Push IN HARD & turn clockwise at the same time, especially if you're only using needle nosed pliers. ;)





Ps: I hope it's clockwise :opps: Now that I've posted it up, I'm second guessing myself?!? :dontknow:

Disconnect the brake linkage at the pedal before you start. That will keep anybody from walking by and pushing the brake just to see what will happen. It could also be accidentally pushed. Better to disconnect it than trying to get the calipers to release.

Screw the pistons back in clockwise and make sure the pads are properly situated in the caliper all the way. Use needle nose pliers or Ron's 'piston retractor' tool. They should slide in and on very eaisly. Don't force anything. My new pads slipped in and the caliper slipped back on with no pressure needed. Somebody in NM may be close enough to come over and help you out.

I've many REAR tire changes ..... I never had an issue like yours, and don't understand why you did ..... Good Luck ...;.. Mike

Parking brake?

OK, so the piston DOES screw in? All other suggestions are good but BTDT on all but 'disconnect the brake' which I failed to do. The brake was not 'pushed' but the E-brake was set and released. I think this pushed the piston out the thickness of the rotor too much. And here I thought getting the tire of and back on would be the hard part!

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try the 'push hard and turn' before I buy the tool.

cir-clip plyers also works well to turn piston

needle nose pliers will work in most cases to turn the piston.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by trikermutha

needle nose pliers will work in most cases to turn the piston.

---

And so they did. I used an old pair of needle nose and clamped them with a vice-grip; I don't think I needed the vice-grip for torque but it kept the needles lined up. I've rebuilt a lot of calipers but all on older bikes and never ran across the screw-in pistons before. So now I know and it won't be too long before I need new pads and can relive the process! Thanks for the help and suggestions.

But before I go, one more question: I failed to line up the spokes on the 'drive belt sprocket' with the spokes on the wheel when I put it together. Other than slight cosmetic blight, is this in any way a problem? Yes, I can get to the valve stem as it is.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by McRuss

And so they did. I used an old pair of needle nose and clamped them with a vice-grip; I don't think I needed the vice-grip for torque but it kept the needles lined up. I've rebuilt a lot of calipers but all on older bikes and never ran across the screw-in pistons before. So now I know and it won't be too long before I need new pads and can relive the process! Thanks for the help and suggestions.

But before I go, one more question: I failed to line up the spokes on the 'drive belt sprocket' with the spokes on the wheel when I put it together. Other than slight cosmetic blight, is this in any way a problem? Yes, I can get to the valve stem as it is.

---

Valve stem access is the only issue I had when I did the same. I corrected it at he next tire change.

Buy the tool from Ron, it is SOO much easier than using needle nose pliers. Ask me how I know. Money well spent for a specific use tool.

Al in Kazoo

may i ask , why are you changing your tire on a new machine.. tks

Good question. I got 10,000 miles out of the original Kenda, wear bars quite visible. Normally I might have put on another couple thou but I'm headed to AK in June and won't leave home without it (new tire).

I almost bought Ron's tool; and yes, it would be a little easier than the needle nose. BTW, I'm a fan of Ron so don't get me wrong. But the needle nose worked very well, especially with the addition of the vice-grips.

10,000 miles in a yr. awesome......im working on 2000 this yr.. lol...