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Experiencing the lockup in gear,stuck in gear and stalling . Saw a thread where the wave spring was the problem. The wave spring appears to be integral with the centrifugal clutch. So,if i replace said clutch,how deep will i need to go before getting involved with clutch shims and all that? Looks like it is before the clutch pack itself. Oh and pressure plate as well. Yes,oil is clean and at the proper level.
David
Assuming that this is a SE model and looking at all the parts the only way to know is to take it apart. Though we have seen many instances where units stuck in gear have had other issues such as the paddle shifter and actuators. You may have to have it checked at a dealer to be sure what your looking at. if you have or want the breakdown check cheapspyderparts.com :thumbup:
Yes,this is an SE,hence the centrifugal clutch.my understanding is the actuators actually engage and disengage the clutch as well.Is this a common failure, Roadster has about 63000 on it.So,if dealer has it,and it locks up,i assume BUDS will point to actuator.Otherwise,maybe complete clutch replacement...ugh.
David
Hey Pandy. I think I saw that same thread. The way I understood it, the wave spring was replaced by itself and everything else was then put back together. The faulty spring was not causing the centrifugal clutch to disengage when it should as engine RPM decreased, thus stalling the engine. It was not an issue with the hydraulic actuator. The wave spring is available separately for about 30 bucks. Looking through the shop manual, the centrifugal clutch is furthest inside the drum. The clutch cover, pressure plate, clutch plates, and clutch hub all must come out to reach the centrifugal clutch assembly. Take note that the centrifugal clutch assembly also has a separate component called the pressure plate. Different plate. Two components by that name in the entire clutch mechanism. After all that, disassemble the centrifugal clutch, replace the spring, reassemble everything. I trust you already have a shop manual if DIY. I wouldn't say this is a very common failure. Good Luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandy
Yep,have shop manual. Will investigate wave spring and see if I can pry any information out of the local Spyder buffoons er rather mechanic.i think shims and spacers might only come into play if clutch plates are replaced,either way,ill have to take pains to keep everything in order.
David
I'm trying to understand how the waveplate would get it stuck in gear? Is it permanent (still stuck) or temporary? I also have an 2008 SE, and have a weird issue. It will stick in a gear (2,3,4 usually) or pop into neutral. No codes, no flashing symbols. Do the 30 seconds key out, then it finally flashes "E" then shifts down by itself. 30K on it, replaced the GBPS w/ BUDS reset. I don't think it is the paddle, as I can hold it in after it shifts, and if it was dirty I think it would randomly shift again or cause something weird, but never does. Ordered one anyways to put on.
Mine doesn't stall though. Wondering if you experience same thing gear-wise.
Steve
Thw wave spring as a culprit was mentioned in another post,hence pursuing same. As an oh by the way,it is pointed out in the manual that said spring has a very specific orientation,or clutch will not disengage. Well,orientation may be good,but it might be broken. I have reached out to other experts and am waiting to see what conclusions might be drawn. And what is a GPBS? Not sure about that one. No,no random shifting,just klunks into gear and stalls,clutch still engaged. Seems to me to be a purely mechanical problem.
GBPS = Gear Box Position Sensor. It’s the sensor that tells the computer what gear you’re in. Also supplies gear position on the display. Will impact control of shifting, but not the clutch. One of you has a shifting problem - appearing electrical - the other has a clutch problem - appearing mechanical. Careful not to mash both issues together. Then this thread will really get confusing.
About to commence clutch disassembly to determine whether clutch or transmission is the culprit. So, if I remove the discs themselves, and reuse,does anyone here know if it will require the compression tool. Not replacing clutch pack yet.Plan is to remove centrifugal clutch and pressure plate,manually shift gear and see if spyder will move. I think with clutch out of the picture,that will determine what could be wrong. If it is internal to the gears, looks like engine from salvage will be the cure,not splitting the case on a 2011 with close to 64K miles. Well, here goes
Wishing you luck.
I'm getting more sure that my problem is also mechanical now. Replaced all electronics, still will just randomly stay in a gear and not shift. Actuator moves solidly. I was kinda hoping his symptoms were similar, but alas they are not. I did catch the RPM's jump during a shift without the bike going faster. Sign of clutch slippage from what I read. Maybe nanny locks out shifting when she detects engine RPM not being what it should be. Still looking through shop manual!Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
Steve