I dunno...fishing line...I'm not seeing a clinch knot or surgeon's knot there...
Thanks for the pics. What did you use for the outer casing?
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Watch this video. I think it will help answer your questions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_xhy6mKvPI
You are correct.... I drilled a tiny hole next to the gas Cap and fished a thin wire under the glove box to the area just forward of the seat latch ... I then attached the wire to the latch arm ..... since the gas cap is closer to the front of the bike than the latch .... the angle allowed the wire to pull open the latch .....all these methods work the same way, they are a little different in the way the wire travels to the latch ..... Mike :thumbup:.........PS - Kudos to the member who discovered the Telephone wire , that is very strong stuff, very thin, flexible yet stiff enough to feed thru blind area,s .............I was going to suggest using it, but not all have access to it ..... Mike
It's best not to tackle it the first time when you're under time pressure. I just took these pics today of the headlight surround removal. The trick is to get at that bolt that's out of sight underneath the front of the side panel.
In this one, I've removed the hidden bolt and pulled the surround slightly forward so you can see how the various panels are secured at that location.
You could just get a generic key cut (no transponder) and slide it under the passenger footrest rubber pad. That way, nobody can steal your Spyder (won't start with that key), but you can still unlock the trunk if you leave your keys in your heavy pants and you change into lighter clothes because the sun finally came out.
(Don't ask me how I know this works.:dontknow:)
I had mine in that spot on my old Spyder for 7 years and it never moved...
I think you missed the point of this Thread ...... WE ( me and a lot of others ) don't want to use the Ignition switch for opening Anything .....if / when yours breaks and you get charged $400 or so to fix it ....the spare Key thing won't seem to be as good an idea as once thought ....... Mike :thumbup:
You can also use a 1/4" dowel to reach in and push the lock open. You can lift the frunk lid enough to reach in with a dowel. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but still pretty easy. Play with it first with the lid open and when it's in place hold it and lower the lid. Then mark on the dowel how far it has to go in to make contact.
This is shown on the 2013 RT I had but it would be same for other models.
I like those ideas and will try something as starting to have intermittent problems...but...how do you get it open if locked out?
Yes, I saw that....any other options I wonder.
None that easy and straightforward that I know of. I suppose you could connect a cable to the latch like the one going to the ignition but I don't right off hand where the best routing for it would be. You could get a solenoid like was used on the 2013 & earlier RTs and come up with some wiring so you can power it to pull the lock lever open.
I have a 2014 RT but it is the same as yours ….. I tried pushing that area ( shown above ) with my thumb - it caused a lot of pain …. pushing that small lever gives you no leverage ….. Everyone who views this method should try it on their own Spyder ….. I have opened a few RT hoods with a thin flat piece of steel stock, but came in from the other side and had to go under the Blk plastic cover to get to the large lever ( that can't be seen here …… good luck everyone ….. Mike :thumbup:
Right...there is no easy way to get to the mechanism without removing the black panels and you need the trunk open to do that as well as taking off other panels.....I think doing some kind of redundant option need to be done.....maybe the next time I can actually open it
Preventative maintenance i.e. Clean latches and lubricate every 3-4 months and adjust the mechanism when needed. Cables stretch and need to be adjusted on occasion. Cable may need to be cleaned with bicycle cable cleaner if needed. This is not failsafe but will save you a lot of head aches and need to install makeshift secondary cables. I do this to all my latches on frunk, seat, side bags and trunk lid on a regular basis and have had good luck on both Spyder's.
Jack
Well actually you don't need to have the Frunk open …. I've done four successfully by going in from the right side ( as seated on the bike )…. that panel can be lifted ( not easy ) and a rod slid under the panel..... The Bent end of the latch is has 5 x's the area of contact than the front part of the lever ….. just sayin ….. Mike :thumbup: