What a mess ….. first oil change on my 1330

I had the 3000 mile first service done on my 2015 RT yesterday. I did my oil change my self. I have done all of them on my 2011 so I figured it would be easy! I put the bike up on the lift and wow, there is very little clearance to reach under and work, especially if the catch pan is under. I removed the short drain plug on the drivers right side and let it drain. When it was done draining, I moved the catch pan under the longer drain plug (drivers left) with the two orings and backed to off enough to let the oils drain very slowly and walked into my house. When I returned a couple of hours later, I discover at least 3 gts of oil must have "puked" out of the right side where the drain pan had been removed! I figured that side was done draining! What a mess, 3-4 qts of used oil covered my lift and the floor of the garage! It was certainly a learning opportunity for me. I am considering using a dremel and enlarging the openings in the plastic covers underneath to make this job easier and less messy. Has anyone tried this?? I simply removed the cover on my 2011 but getting this sucker off is MUCH more work!!

Ideas anyone??

Watch Shawn's video. He specifically talks about the mess.

One thing I would do differently is get a 3" long hose you can stick up into the hole of the pan, OD diameter large enough to tightly fit the hole of the pan and ID large enough to get the drain plug socket up inside it. This will allow the oil to not run all over the pan but out the hose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xL5AN-59Rb8

Bob

Step 5, page 124 of the 2015 operators guide, says to remove the oil sump drain plug first. Step 7, page 125, says to allow sufficient time for the oil to completely drain from the engine sump. Step 10, page 125, says to remove the clutch cover drain plug. When you drain in this sequence much less oil comes out of the clutch cover. One must also be aware that when the oil filter cannister cap is opened additional oil may drain out of the cannister into the clutch cover.

With my Spyder up on auto wheel ramps I had no problem with oil running anywhere it shouldn't because it appeared natural to me to strategically place some paper towel wads where oil might run onto the frame. I did have the benefit of a drain pan large enough to accommodate both plugs draining at same time--a smart investment on my son's part. It also serves as the container to tote the waste oil to the auto parts store dump tank.

FWIW, although the manuals say the Spyder should be on a level surface both drain plugs are at the aft edges of the engine and all the oil drained out with the rear wheel lower than the fronts. The proof of this draining was that when I refilled the engine with 5 qt of oil, ran it to operating temp and checked, the level on the dipstick was right where it was supposed to be--at the add mark. I have no need to enlarge any holes anywhere. YMMV.

Thanks for the hints! I did watch Shawns videos twice but still started on the wrong side of the engine, i guess! Clutch (short drain plug) is on the drivers right and engine (long drain plug with two o-rings) sump is on drivers left. Correct? Next time I will not use the lift and simply use ramps for front wheels and a jack for the rear. This way I will have plenty of room to work!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bmwlarry

Thanks for the hints! I did watch Shawns videos twice but still started on the wrong side of the engine, i guess! Clutch (short drain plug) is on the drivers right and engine (long drain plug with two o-rings) sump is on drivers left. Correct? Next time I will not use the lift and simply use ramps for front wheels and a jack for the rear. This way I will have plenty of room to work!

---

Larry, I had oil dribbling all over on my first change from the motor sump (left side) and after that, I dremeled out the holes on both sides. I made three blocks out of 2 X 10 lumber and stick these under the wheels after I jack it up. Makes for easier changes. Still haven't found a good method to get the left side plug out without oil running down my hand/arm. Haven't actually tried just loosening it till oil starts
draining and then go away till it stops. Will try that next time.

BTW, I use a pan for each plug.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bmwlarry

Thanks for the hints! I did watch Shawns videos twice but still started on the wrong side of the engine, i guess! Clutch (short drain plug) is on the drivers right and engine (long drain plug with two o-rings) sump is on drivers left. Correct? Next time I will not use the lift and simply use ramps for front wheels and a jack for the rear. This way I will have plenty of room to work!

---

Yes, you are correct. Remember we always refer to the Left and Right of the Spyder as the rider would sitting on the vehicle.

FWIW, when I last changed my oil, I found before lunch was the perfect time to pull the plugs and crack the filter cannister cap. I let everything drain while eating and there was only one drop on each drain hole when I returned.

Relax now, you've 9,300 miles or a year before you have to do it again.

The hose idea guys would be much simpler ;)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...1&d=1315517901

Bob

I used a top off of a spray paint can and cut the closed end off, then placed it into the hole under the drain plug...no mess

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mikej

I used a top off of a spray paint can and cut the closed end off, then placed it into the hole under the drain plug...no mess

---

Im afraid this fix - I don't understand. But them I'm old!!

Hi, I know that feeling at the start of doing it....

I utilize low profile ramps on the front tires and jack the Spyder up so I can level it out with wood blocks on the back tire.

I've done it many times now and it gets much easier. I use a "mortar tub" (similar to this picture) under the bike as it allows both drains to drain at same time with plenty of room for any other issues that might come up! The mortar tub covers the whole bottom area for draining - works for me! I pour all my used oil in a 5 gallon container for recycling later from the tub.
https://sp.yimg.com/xj/th?id=OIP.Ma7...=0&w=281&h=173

I do remove both lower plastic shields under the drain plugs - seems they thought it might drain out those little holes, but it doesn't. Believe me, I found out the hard way on my first change. Your will get used to how to pull the drain plugs without making a mess - especially the double O ring plug - go slow and when it stops unscrewing pull it out quickly.

I've got 26,000 on my 2014 RT Limited and the last oil change (just last week) went the best ever...I think I'm finally getting the hang of it!

Good luck, not so hard once you have completed a few oil changes.....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by finless

The hose idea guys would be much simpler ;)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...1&d=1315517901

Bob

---

That is a great idea and worked well on my 2012 RT -- NOT for the 2014 RT (1330 engine) though ... it's a different set-up !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jim&Teresa

That is a great idea and worked well on my 2012 RT -- NOT for the 2014 RT (1330 engine) though ... it's a different set-up !

---

:agree: Always used a hose on my 2011 and it worked great. Tried doing that on the 1330 and it doesn't work. It took a few oil changes on the 2011 to perfect the technique. I'm sure the 1330 will be no different. Two so far, third coming up shortly.

On my 2014 RTL I removed both plastic shields and left them off
Does not seem to hurt anything ridding with them off

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gypsy_100

:agree: Always used a hose on my 2011 and it worked great. Tried doing that on the 1330 and it doesn't work. It took a few oil changes on the 2011 to perfect the technique. I'm sure the 1330 will be no different. Two so far, third coming up shortly.

---

Why doesn't it work on the 1330?

Bob

Should have called Shawn FIRST..then do it.........?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think I'm going to look at wedging 2 silicone hump hoses between the engine and the bottom cover for the oil to drain through...I have hex drain plugs...

You guys have some great ideas and that started me thinking...

I'll let everyone know how it works out and maybe some pictures...I'll be doing my end of the year service sometime in Nov...(If BRP get my DESS problem fixed)

larryd

I'm following this thread with interest as I will be doing my first Spyder oil change in about 2,300 miles (I just passed 10,000). I've performed oil changes on lots of bikes, but have never seen one with a setup like this one, where oil dribbles all over the place after you release the plug. I've also never had one with two plugs, so I'm ordering an elongated drain pan so I can capture both at once.

I'll have plenty of kitty litter on hand for this task :p

Pam

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pampurrs

I'm following this thread with interest as I will be doing my first Spyder oil change in about 2,300 miles (I just passed 10,000). I've performed oil changes on lots of bikes, but have never seen one with a setup like this one, where oil dribbles all over the place after you release the plug. I've also never had one with two plugs, so I'm ordering an elongated drain pan so I can capture both at once.

I'll have plenty of kitty litter on hand for this task :p

Pam

---

Newspapers all around underneath works good too. 3 or 4 thicknesses will keep oil off the floor.

Loosen the dipstick when you take the drain plug out. Some air has to get in the top before the oil can drain out the bottom.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by finless

Watch Shawn's video. He specifically talks about the mess.

One thing I would do differently is get a 3" long hose you can stick up into the hole of the pan, OD diameter large enough to tightly fit the hole of the pan and ID large enough to get the drain plug socket up inside it. This will allow the oil to not run all over the pan but out the hose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xL5AN-59Rb8

Bob

---

Nice! Thanks.

Auto parts stores sell big bags of oil dry that have always been able to clean up any mess I have ever been able to make, and a few times that was a lot of mess.

1330...Put front on car ramps, get oil pan ready, crack open the left side drain plug until the oil is flowing out, remove right-hand mirror and panels, replace oil filter, replace panels and mirror, go for a cuppa while it finishes draining, replace and tighten the left drain plug, move oil pan to below right drain plug, remove plug and allow to drain, replace drain plug and remove oil pan from under Spyder.
Fill with correct quantity of engine oil.
Start engine and check all is OK.
Reverse off the ramps. Clear away.
Job done!

I opened up both holes with the Dremel tool. Makes it all much easier.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lew L

I opened up both holes with the Dremel tool. Makes it all much easier.

---

What holes?

The holes in the plastic where the torx/hex go into the drain plug. I have the aftermarket plugs and must use a metric socket. Enlarging the holes makes this MUCH easier.
Lew L

PS: bump skid??????