I have tried to contact BRP Diagnostics and got no reply.. May have to contact the local Stealer and see what they tell me on BUDS :bowdown:Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
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I have tried to contact BRP Diagnostics and got no reply.. May have to contact the local Stealer and see what they tell me on BUDS :bowdown:Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Here are the instructions on changing the HCM filter and cover assembly. Right side Tuppeware has to come off then its appears pretty simple but the last sentence on the page takes it out of the DIY category unless you have B.U.D.S. that is used to activate the venting.
Good to know. I missed that last part when I did mine. My Spyder must of vented itself as I had no issues. In 18000 miles when it's time to change it again I will have to see if it will vent on it's own again. If not I will bring it to a dealer and have them vent it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
No. But I believe it it pretty straight forward.Quote:
Originally Posted by SPYD3R
Yes, this is it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
I love the part where it says; 'NOTE: Replace HCM filter frequently'.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
28,000 miles = Frequently? :dontknow:
What is the estimated price to have this done at a dealer?3-400?
I would guess that the total price would include an oil change with filters. However, an oil change is easily done by the owner. And the transmission oil filter replacement is probably the easiest part of the process on the 1330 motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by marty1096
I have replaced mine it is so easy I'm going to replace my second one this month no buds needed
It is not a difficult service. Take panels off and there it is, remove bolts and replace filter. Put pan uinder it to catch oil.......
Curious as to the hydraulics work on this....is it not the same oil source?
I changed mine Monday as part of the 56K service, no B.U.D.S., no codes, shifts fine. Now the crazy codes for a spark plug change, that's a different story but they disappeared.
Its easiest to just wait until your next 9300 mile or 15,000 km oil change and when you have a little extra time to walk through it but its easy especially if you have the ball head metric allen head sockets (Harbor Freight is a source). I usually let it drain a while, and take time looking over things while I get ready to install the new HCM hydraulic control module.
Clean off the surfaces and Remember to be easy on the cap screws when torquing it back and use a cross pattern to even out the seal on the filter module to the engine case. And the torque is just in inch lbs, so go easy.
That reminds me I need to order a couple more from BajaRon and some oil filters for the next change around 60,000 mi.
I opened one of the plastic cases, but little to see other than some pretty robust filter media.. I think Doc did a video on the HCM change.
I'm waiting for Mike "Blueknight911" to do his, then after he's finished I'll invite him over for a 6 hour beer... :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Here's my input from the first change I had done...10/20/2015 miles: 25,858
Pictures, torque specs, etc. in attached link:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=1#post1061377
There seems to be a fair number of misconceptions about the SE6 HCM filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geep
Changing the HCM filter is tricky or hard to do, (Not)
You need BUDS to change the HCM filter, (Not)
The HCM filter, filters the transmission oil, (Not). I will admit some culpability on this one as I reference this as a 'Transmission' filter (which it is not) because many relate to this terminology but have no idea what an HCM is.
The transmission runs in it's own, separate oil, (Not)
This filter treats only that oil which is then sent to the hydraulic control mechanism (or module, I can't remember which). The HCM takes the place of your foot on the shift lever and your hand squeezing the clutch lever. That's all it does. Shift up, shift down. The transmission gears run in the same oil as the engine and that oil is filtered by the engine oil filter.
Yep that HCM filter is really easy to replace once you get off the side covers.
In fact I still have the old one in my garage I wanted to open it up and see how much crap is in there :shocked:
I've seen 2 of these filters cut open, and pictures of a few more. They appear to be clean. Speculation is that you can go much further on this filter than the recommended 28,000 mile interval. This may be true. But gambling your HCM system on a maybe. Not so sure that's the best way to go. The HCM probably has some pretty close tolerance components for BRP to supply a dedicated filter to that function.Quote:
Originally Posted by trikermutha
Ok, I'm about to attempt my HCM filter along with a few other things. I was reading the service manual, and they refer to several gaskets and o-rings. Are there any that need to be replaced for this? Do they come with the filter?
The HCM filter comes as one complete assembly. The only difficult thing about it is removing the most rearward lower bolt; you have to remove the rear right side panel. You do not have to remove the underbelly panel immediately below the filter. I placed a sacrificial T-shirt under the filter and the amount of oil that came out wasn't more than a couple of ounces, didn't really saturate the shirt. Since you've the service manual you have the tightening sequence of the bolts. I went around them three times in sequence.
I changed the HCM filter myself, no BUDS. I did have shifting issues for about one or two miles but it cleared itself up.'
Guess I'll find out, hoping to get to it this weekend.
The HCM filter change on the 1330 Rotax is an easy job. The only thing you need to pay attention to (as with any O-Ring sealed component) is to tighten each bolt up evenly, a little at a time. Do not tighten 1 bolt and then move to then next.
The main thing is to provide even pressure around the circumference of the filter. You will end up with a small, even gap between the filter housing and the engine case as the O-Ring will hold the housing just off the engine case. This is an easy way to check to be sure you've done the job correctly. If the gap is not the same all the way around, then you have not gotten the bolts tightened properly. It's not difficult as long as you tighten each bolt a little at a time.
These retaining bolts do not have to be real tight. Just snug pressure is all that is needed. It is the O-Ring that is doing all the work.
Performing your own service work not only saves you time and money. It helps you to learn about your machine. And you will usually do at least as good a job as the tech at the dealership.
The shop manual mentions nothing about needing BUDS afterwards, and the job looks to be fairly straightforward. I'll do mine when it's due.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chupaca
I did mine at 28,000 miles. No BUDS needed.