Just bought - 2014 Spyder RT-S SE6 77K miles with RT-622 trailer
I'm the wiring guy for a friend's SCTA roadster and his workshop is an hour-long commute. While I can ride my Moto Guzzi V7 III both ways, after six hours of work (fun) the return home is no longer safe due to fatigue. So I bought a 2014 Spyder RT-S SE6 77K miles (apparently mostly in the SouthWest) with RT-622 trailer. Nice backrest, great wind protection, cruise control. I haven't taken it above 65mph yet but I expect it will be fine at the 80mph of the car pool lane. BTW I'm an ATGATT guy with Roadcrafter Classic, Bell SRT-modular, etc. 3-wheels are the same as 2-wheels when it comes to safe riding gear.
Here's what I've purchased and will install to establish a maintenance baseline:
Can-Am 219800356 XPS Oil Change Kit (SE6)
Can-Am 420211156 Transmission Filter
GoldPlug MP-01 and MP-18 Drain Plugs
Can-Am 779150 XPS Pre-Mixed Coolant
NGK MR7BI-8 (90982) Spark Plugs
EBC FA630HH Front Brake Pads
EBC FA631HH Rear Brake Pads
ATE 706202 TYP 200 Brake Fluid
Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 LFP Battery
Service Repair Manual on CD
Shop Manual Supplement on paper
Here's what I will do afterwards:
Move Garmin Zumo 660 from Royal Enfield to Can-Am
Fabricate Turn Indicator Repeaters visible in sunlight
Fabricate Lifting Adapters for my 2-Post Hoist
Install LED 6K Headlight Bulbs
Install LED 3K Fog Light Bulbs
Install LED Backup and Turn Signal Bulbs
Order custom Front, Side and Rear Compartment Liners
Order someone's Front Shocks
Maybe order someone's Rear Shock (the stock ACS seems handy)
The 2-wheeler leaving the stable: 2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 in Lagoon Blue with SB/GG hot-rod engine. If you are interested visit https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/...91.0#msg352444
3 Attachment(s)
HCM and Fuel Filters Photos
At 77K miles without any service record I was establishing a maintenance baseline, which included the HCM and fuel filters. If you are changing the oil filter, you don't need to remove much more bodywork to get to the HCM and fuel filters. Some pictures.
The HCM filter was easy (I got mine from BajaRon). Make sure you thoroughly drain the engine oil first, both drain plugs. Remove the Torx fasteners, then tap and twist the old filter so its gasket frees up and gently pull it off. There shouldn't be much oil mess. Lightly lubricate the new filter's rubber parts and gently push it into place. Install the Torx fasteners with a GOOD torque wrench with at least 2 intermediate torque settings before the final setting. Follow the tightening pattern.
From my perspective if you have an SE6 then replacing the $100 HCM every oil change is cheap insurance. Although the transmission clutch pack doesn't appear all that hard to replace. Not that I want to quite yet.
The fuel filter was not quite as easy because the little critter is behind a bracket with a fussy filter clamp. I had to replace the hoses as well as hose clamps. Use the proper fuel-line clamps not worm clamps although a clamp was missing on the inlet of my filter and there was no leakage. Not a recommended practice. Remember any fuel leakage is next to your wedding tackle.
The inlet (left) side of the filter comes from the fuel tank pump. The outlet (right) side of the filter goes to a Y-fitting. The straight-through part of the Y feeds the fuel injector rail. The reverse part of the Y returns to the fuel tank pressure regulator. Sorry I forgot to take pictures of the Y because rebuilding fuel lines wasn't all that easy and I was concentrating on that fussiness. Remember when you first turn on the ignition after replacing the fuel filter there will be a squeal as air is purged from the fuel lines.
10 Attachment(s)
Oil Pressure and Voltage Gauges w/photos
So I bought this 2014 77K mile RT-S SE6 for my old age. I didn't buy it from the original owner so its maintenance history was opaque although I was told it was dealer-serviced; lived in SoCal; and primarily traveled in the SouthWest with an RT-622 trailer.
It seemed to shift properly and it always started but in establishing the maintenance baseline the oil was Black and the battery was old. So new oil, filters, battery.
The RT-S comes with coolant temperature and fuel level gauges; the base RT does not. Except as I discovered on this forum if you disconnect the RT-S gauges it goes into base RT display mode with coolant temperature and fuel level on the LCD display.
While the 1330cc I3 seems to be a tough engine, the paddle-shifted SE6 is worrisome as it seems to need proper oil pressure for operation. And the VSS, DPS, etc electronics need their electron pressure (voltage) too. So I bought two health gauges: oil pressure and voltage.
I wanted stepper motor gauges for their needles-not-numbers and 270 degree sweep. SpeedHut and Autometer were kinda outside my price range (I need new front tires) so I bought GlowShift which is a good-enough gauge (eg, 3-wire oil pressure transducer).
GlowShift offers 7 face color choices with the default being Blue markings on a White background.
The gauge function is powered by the Black and Red wires. The gauge face is powered by the Yellow wire. Remembering your color choice is powered by the Orange wire, which must be Always-On. Since I liked the Blue-White default, I connected the Red and Yellow wires to Ignition-On and left the Orange wire disconnected. I used a Ring terminal to connect to the Spyder gauge ground and a Spade terminal to connect to the Spyder gauge power so I didn't have to Posi-Tap any Spyder wires.
And here's what the dash panel itself looks like.
Them little Green lights? That's another post.
The service manual shows a port for measuring oil pressure via an adapter and a mechanical gauge. Looking at the front of the engine there are three choices.
You need GlowShift's M10x1.0 Male to 1/8-27 NPT Female Adapter, along with Loctite 243.
Do the gauges work? Yep. I'll post some videos starting the engine cold and then after it heats up (spoiler alert: lowest oil pressure is 18psi hot 1st gear idle at traffic light -- I'm happy!). And coolant temperature and fuel level are displayed on the LCD as promised.
5 Attachment(s)
4,500K HID Headlights w/photos
For no special reason, I wanted to change my headlights from incandescent 9005 to HID or LED (my Owner Manual says H4 but that's not for the USA). I wanted something around 4,500K for nighttime illumination but nothing was available in LED. And I prefer HID for projector housings anyway so bought DDM Tuning's 35W CANbus-compatible kit https://ddmtuning.com/DDMPlusCanbusHIDKit
The High-/Low-beam function in the Spyder is not the traditional two filaments but rather one filament with a mechanical shutter exposing more or less of the bulb's light. This is perfect for HIDs because they have a warmup time which results in beam-shifting delays. Except the LH headlight has a 5-pin connector with a jumper and the RH headlight has the same connector with 3 pins populated. Thus each side gets low-beam power, high-beam power and ground. Since the 9005 bulbs get continuous power during beam-shifting, I made a wiring harness that powers both the LH and RH HID ballasts from the LH 9005 bulb connector.
I also had to power the HID bulbs and needed extensions.
I used the Lamonster technique for penetrations into the headlight housings (thanks). The 5-pin connector is the chassis feed to the housing; the 2-pin connector was for the 9005 bulb; and the Blue and White connectors are for the HID bulb.
This mates to the chassis connectors. I ran the HID wiring outside the headlight housing opening and then through the same opening used for the headlight adjuster cable.
I mounted the two ballasts and their four warts (two filters and two ignitors) opportunistically under the headlights.
I also bought DDM Tuning's OE Fit 3,000K LEDs https://ddmtuning.com/SaberLED-OE-Fi...bs-5000LMPR-WY for the fog lights which will be wired so the appropriate side will flash synchronously with the turn signal while the other side is dark using three of my favorite programmable relays https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Z2EQCU But that's another post.:D
3 Attachment(s)
Givi 30L Monolock Case w/photos
For my Royal Enfield Classic 500, then carried over to my Moto Guzzi V7 III, I chose the Givi 30L Monolock Top Case http://www.giviusa.com/givi-products...ck-case-detail to hold my full-face helmet, gloves, etc when away from my bike. And wanted the same for my Spyder RT-S. I will never have a passenger so removed that backrest and I removed the tilting portion of the driver backrest leaving a pivot at the back of the seat. I mounted an aluminum U-section to the pivot and put the Givi adapter plate http://www.giviusa.com/givi-products...fit-kit-detail on top. The case includes a backrest pad although I'll be adding a second one for lower back support.
The case uses one key with two buttons to open the cover and to remove it from the adapter plate. They are at the back of the case which I tilt up to get access.
And it also tilts out of the way when I refuel.
Can-Am coyly suggests you can put your helmet in the side cases. Nope. And the frunk is a dark pit where I put my walking boots anyway (I don't like walking in my riding boots at my destination). The Givi 30L is my perfect match solution.:D
3 Attachment(s)
Some spark plug related photos and other stuff
Some things I wish I knew before I changed my spark plugs. LH and RH views of valve cover.
The engine air intake extends from the left-side fronk to the right-side throttle body. Above the engine are these two linked air boxes. On the left is the air intake from the frunk (worm gear clamp, Brown) and the air filter access (Green). You must remove the air filter, reach in, and turn CCW about 30 degrees the inter-box coupling (Orange). On the right is the throttle body connection (worm gear coupling, Blue) with breather hose on the side. The rubber tubes are held to the box with long tie wraps.
The changeover from Torx to flanged button socket head has gone well. Where the mating surface wasn't metal I included a washer. Yeah extra work but plastic gets old and brittle and repairs are a pain. And now I can easily see the fasteners because they're shiny stainless steel. I've used so much M5 and M6 hardware Amazon was offering a subscription (just kidding but I've got a 1qt bag almost full of Can-Am's fasteners). I'm now considering replacing most of the push-pin fasteners with M6 socket heads into rivet nuts. I can't do that with the U-nuts because they need the wiggle room.
I'm happy with the oil pressure. I'm running the XPS 5W40. The 1330 and I are happiest at 3,500rpm and above (smooth power quickly available) which is 50psi oil pressure. Hot idle drops to 18psi. Corresponding cold pressures are 58psi (relief) and 20psi.
Voltage is pretty much 14.4V all the time. The battery (Shorai LFX) has a resting voltage of 13.2V which drops lower after a few days. I've seen as low as 12V but starting power is strong.
I'm still learning to drive in the center of the road. When I first started riding motorcycles there was a grease mark down every road which you needed to avoid. And positioning the front wheels is still a challenge because I'm not in line with them.
Handling is terrible, even frightening at times. It has stock suspension and stock tires, 2015 year in front and 2018 year in rear. Tread good in all positions. Tie rod linkages good. Sway bar bushings seem loose to my thinking. Handlebar ends rock fore-aft, up-down a bit and from what I've read they shouldn't. I plan on removing the handlebar covers and will explore a bit from there. Certainly will do a deep dive when I change the oil in 3K miles.
Tried various techniques for stable steering. It will take and hold a set until the road changes and then destabilizes badly. I've tried lightly decelerating to put weight on the front tires before turn-in -- no joy. I've tried lightly accelerating to shift weight onto outside tire for turn-out -- no joy. I haven't adjusted air spring pressure. It's stable in a straight line at CA freeway speeds which these days are about 20mph over posted. But even sweepers tighten up the sphincter.
I need to study this vehicle's dynamics a bit more before I make any decisions. But I don't think it's tires. I don't think it's alignment. I don't think it's springing. It could be dampening, both compression and rebound, from old shocks. It could be swaybar although I find it hard to believe Can-Am would release a Spyder with these characteristics. Yes it leans but the disturbing part is the rapid change from stable to unstable (rocking repeating left-right) which significantly affects steering. And by the way, is the front suspension intentionally designed to enhance bump steer?:D
I installed the Lamonster Magic Mirrors -- very nice design. I'm going to order the TricLED Wide-Vu mirror when they return. And a Lamonster belt tensioner after I fix the handling because I can detect a harmonic at 76-78mph. Not bothersome and actually a handy reminder but harmonics probably increase belt and bearing wear.
I need to finish rear lighting (CHMSL, backup) which is a future topic.
3 Attachment(s)
Vredestein Quatrac 5 165/60R15 and 205/70R15 arriving tomorrow
Peter -- you have the persistence of my sister.:D
But I listen to my sister because she's usually right. Tire Rack will deliver the tires tomorrow if snow permits. Weather has been cold and wet so I probably won't see my tire guy until next week.
Yep that's a real coyote skull facing backwards on that helmet.
Next I'll walk through the Parts Catalog and see what front suspension wear parts I can replace.
When the weather is a bit warmer and drier I'll explore the upper portion of the steering linkage.
WRT to DPS, yeah that power feed looked to be at least an 8AWG, maybe 6AWG. The battery is a new Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 https://shoraipower.com/battery?type...33&year=380733 although I didn't clean any terminals past the battery. So I will do the DeoxIT thing https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/ for both fuse boxes and any heavy current connections I can reach without removing too much bodywork.
I too was concerned about DPS surge currents which is one of the reasons I replaced the SLA Yuasa and installed a voltmeter. The voltmeter doesn't show any drop while turning (turn-in and steady) although I had considered a second Shorai. BTW the oil pressure doesn't change during shifts up or down. So I'm happy with gauges, voltage and oil pressure.
I'll ask BajaRon for his thoughts on sway bar links and bump steer mitigation.
Racetech Suspension is just up the road 1.5 hours away so may pay them a visit too. They will be my supplier if I need to replace the shocks.
Thanks for the analysis and recommendations. I'll keep you informed on my findings.
Vredestein Quatrac 5 205/70R15 didn't fit and some other stuff
Took the Vredestein Quatrac 5 tires to Vey's Powersports this morning. The front 165/60R15 are mounted. The tire installer will find a new home for the rear 205/70R15 because it rubbed the top of the shock asorber. Thought I would downsize to /65 profile but research showed people liked the 215/60R15. TireRack had one left of a closeout Uniroyal Tiger Paw Touring -- it will be here Wednesday. The reviews said it performed satisfactorily and was quiet.
Vey's remounted my old tire for free which was very nice of them.
My /70 profile excursion looks to have cost me about $200.
In other news, EBC pads, SpeedBleeders and fresh ATE 200 at all three corners. I couldn't retract the rear piston. The groove on the rear Brembo pads was almost gone while the fronts were in good shape so at 77K miles I think the fronts had been replaced and the rears were original so maybe the piston was over-extended? Anyway I bought a rear brake assembly on eBay $40 from swing arm bracket to hardline. Piston retracted just like it was supposed to. And Yes the BajaRon tool is wonderful. As are the SpeedBleeders.
I'm proceeding one thing at a time on suspension and steering. After the rear tire is installed, I will find a laser alignment place (Vey's no longer does that service). And from there probably bushings as needed.
As part of suspension/steering investigation, I started disassembling the handlebar. What a surprise -- it's not a bar but rather a multi-part assembly. I discovered there is a "height" adjustment although if the bars were tilted higher my hands would intrude into the mirror rear view. Haven't found any smoking guns yet.
I also discovered the LH heated grip wire had been repaired and the RH heated grip wire had been damaged by pinching from the bar cover. I was already unhappy with the unlighted two-position switch so will replace it with a 12-to-24V booster and adjustable PWM to provide more heat with a visible indication (knob).
I've pretty much gotten used to driving the center of the lane. Still shaving the corners a bit too close. I like the paddle shifter. And that trailer I never intended to buy sure is handy. Takes me about 10 minutes to install/remove the hitch. Fit for purpose.:D