If I understand a previous thread somewhere, it would be wise not to open the radiator drain valve, but instead, disconnect the main lower hose connection. Cold and wet week ahead so I will do some maintenance on the bike.
If I understand a previous thread somewhere, it would be wise not to open the radiator drain valve, but instead, disconnect the main lower hose connection. Cold and wet week ahead so I will do some maintenance on the bike.
That's correct. The drain plug "tap" is pressed into the radiator housing. When you loosen the plug the press fit joint can come loose.
:agree: ….. Doing this via the hose connection is a much better idea, none of those parts are likely to break …..jmhjo ….. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez
Yes the correct way to do this is to remove one of the lower radiator hoses to drain the system. by 2014 the drain valve was removed from the radiators and BRP listed the lower hose removal as the only approved method. Since BRP only uses one time clamps you will need to have one available (most people use ss worm clamps).Quote:
Originally Posted by ARNIE R
One of the most frustrating things about this for me was trying to fill the overflow bottle on the Spyder as it's placement makes it hard to read as well as had to fill. I tried a turkey baster and that was a mess a funnel with a long neck works, but I found that to also make a mess.
What I finally came up with is taking the cap from the antifreeze bottle and drilling a hole in the center just large enough for a plastic tube to go through it. I used 3/8" ID clear tubbing from a big box store (Menards, Home Depot) Using about two feet of it using silicone to glue it in place.
Now I just pinch the tubing to stop the flow and no mess!
There are different types of antifreezes on the market today. Some brands are not compatible with other brands. Does anyone know what brand or which chemical compound antifreeze BRP put in their 1330 spyder motors? There are basically two types that are used, silicates based compounds and organic acid based compounds and the two cannot be mixed. It's possible there is even a third type of antifreeze out there. There is always a certain amount of residual coolant left in the system when it is drained. I'm not sure how much would remain in the 1330 and if incorrectly mixed with a non-compatible brand, would there be enough in there to cause an issue.
:agree:, …… if you flush with very hot water ( remember the thermostat has to open ) a few times 99.999% of the old anti-freeze will be changed ….. jmho ….. Mike
Do you know which or what antifreeze is the OEM antifreeze?Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Good idea, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by PW2013STL
I believe there was a post from a few years back, that identified what the make-up was for the OEM anti-freeze..... good luck finding that post ….. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dogs
Believe it the OAT type but would have to check my bottles. You could use the green type but not rated for long periods versus the pink/orange type that brp sells.
I guess this would be it. Correct? https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRP-Ski-Doo...-/153063301003Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
I believe the manual says use coolant that is compatible with aluminum engines. If you do that you should be fine.
As stated in my manual:
Always use ethylene glycol antifreeze containing corrosion inhibitors specifically recommended for aluminum engines.
Well this will work ….. it should it's sold by BRP …… But at $15.00 per QUART that's pretty expensive stuff …… others have posted " if it's labeled for ALUMINUM engines it's OK " …… Well maybe …….. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dogs
This is the standard Green Antifreeze. They recommend the Long Life Pink/Orange antifreeze. Most vehicles these days are using the long life Antifreeze compared to the old days.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dogs