2020 RTL Seat strut barely holds the seat open - ideas?

Dealer replaced mine free, but it might be less of a hassle to buy one and install it. That's what I would do
if I did a do over. Sometimes it's a pain with dealers, and who knows if the dealer replacement is gonna last?

I followed someone's (can't remember who) advice from this forum. We had two 2020 RTs with this problem.

1.) removed the panels,
2.) took out the strut,
3.) wound a compression spring (purchased beforehand - you want one heavy enough to put pressure on the strut fully extended, but not so heavy as to not allow the strut to compress almost all of the way down. Finding the right compression spring was more art than science. Try Ace hardware. ) around the extension arm of the strut and
4.) replaced the strut and panels.
Works like a champ. Cost about $4. (and and hour or two of my time).

Steve O. from Honda of Winston-Salem replaced one of ours (using an ice-pick-like tool with a 90 degree bend at the very end) in about 30 seconds. He removed the two outside panels, unscrewed the the top bolt of the strut, stuck the pick in one of the slots in the black plastic panel under the outer Tupperware (avoiding taking off the black plastic panel), used the pick to pull the clip holding the strut in, pulled out the strut, replaced it, replaced all the panels and did it in less time than it took me to type this.

Thank you for this thread. I ordered the suggested shock & eye kit for my 2023 S2S.

2020 RTL Riders seat (not staying up) Passenger seat removal questions

Bike has 1,700 miles on ii. I noticed that the rider's seat will not stay up when filling gas tank. Could temperatures affect this?

I can not even see how to remove the riders seat nor the passengers one. They are the heated ones. Any clear pix or videos on how to do this?

From what I can see the ram is on the left side and goes down into the chassis but do not know where?

Also I have read that you may be better off getting a replacement ram for the riders seat from a auto parts store? Anyone have a part number for a replacement ram?

My bike is still under the extended warranty to there is a $50 deductible, if I had the ram replaced with a Can am oem one would the replacement be any better?

I can see the ram (see pix)

A couple of disparate suggestions: We use 9 inches cut off an old broomstick and stored in the left saddlebag. Just prop the seat open when fueling. Replacement gas springs are available from McMaster-Carr. I took a quick look at their prices and it seems like you could save money by dealing with them. Also you could opt for "next strongest" rather than a direct replacement. Where the strut goes becomes obvious when you take the left side panels off the cycle.

To remove the pax seat, start by removing the pivot bolts at the rear of the driver's seat. Now that you have a clear field of action, you can barely see two plastic clips that hold down the front of the pax seat. Push them gently to the rear while lifting up on the front edge of the seat. It's hard to see and nearly impossible to photograph because everything is black on black. Having once seen it, you will discover that it is possible to remove the pax seat by merely opening the driver's seat without totally removing it.

Thanks

Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!

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Originally Posted by Bob L

Mine did the same thing (I have since bought a Corbin seat). BUT before that I bought this size spring (see photo). You unhook one end of the seat piston, push the spring down over the piston and reconnect the piston... and the seat will stay up while fueling! I cannot take credit for this idea, I got it here on the Spyder Lovers message board!

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That's a capital idea and easy to install as well.

I did the spring also. Best 5 bucks spent in a while.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by K80Shooter

Ok I have what I think is a suitable work around. Regardless of what Suspa stated in a email to me I did find one that works great. Suspa C16-14870 it is a 30# strut. I also was able to get the bottom and top ends off of the old strut so you can simply just use them if you want to.

I did replace the top link with another one which gave me about a 1/4" more lift at the stud which translated to a good bit of lift at the front of the seat. I like this better as you will have a little more room to fill it with gas.

Here's the best price that I found and as always with them I received them the next day. I'm sure this will vary depending on where you are located. Freight was a little under $8.00 so that also is reasonable.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1374 Part # 9416K14 in 30# You can choose another if you wish but it might break the plastic stud if there's too much pressure on it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1376 The eyelet end that I used is a 6465K26 it is plastic but works great. You can always use the old one.

Here's on showing the extra length I got with the new eyelet end.


Here's one showing the new strut installed.


Here's one of just the new eyelet


Here's one of the seat lifted

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Great news! Does the ball end come on that strut?

I found one at McMaster Carr that fit exactly but was like a 40 or 50 LB strut. The seat would jump up almost on its own. Don't remember the part # and this was on a 2012 RTL anyway. I 'm sure you can find a stronger one at McMaster Carr

I did order and receive the 30 LB gas spring from McMaster-Carr P/N 9416K142 for my seat on my STS and it looks like it will work. However, I wanted to see if the 20 LB gas spring P/N 9416K141 will be all that I need, so I have that one on order as well.

Yes, 2020 RTL seat struts are a PIA. Had mine replaced under warranty, now that one has failed. I'm done, I just use a prop to keep life simple. Gee whiz, this could not have been rocket science for BRP.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by K80Shooter

Ok I have what I think is a suitable work around. Regardless of what Suspa stated in a email to me I did find one that works great. Suspa C16-14870 it is a 30# strut. I also was able to get the bottom and top ends off of the old strut so you can simply just use them if you want to.

I did replace the top link with another one which gave me about a 1/4" more lift at the stud which translated to a good bit of lift at the front of the seat. I like this better as you will have a little more room to fill it with gas.

Here's the best price that I found and as always with them I received them the next day. I'm sure this will vary depending on where you are located. Freight was a little under $8.00 so that also is reasonable.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1374 Part # 9416K14 in 30# You can choose another if you wish but it might break the plastic stud if there's too much pressure on it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/1376 The eyelet end that I used is a 6465K26 it is plastic but works great. You can always use the old one.

Here's on showing the extra length I got with the new eyelet end.


Here's one showing the new strut installed.


Here's one of just the new eyelet


Here's one of the seat lifted

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Hey, Thanks so much for this. I tried the helper spring approach. It worked fine on my trunk, but the minute I added a spring to the seat, the spring started hitting the bodywork.
I just ordered the 30 lb strut.
Again, thank you so very much.

I installed the spring over my OEM shock. Works great.