What the heck! Fault codes P0571 and P1571

So I was just out getting my Spyder ready for my morning ride tomorrow and I hooked up the BRP Go app for the first time. I backed it out of my garage, pulled it back in where I could get around it. I installed in my new TPMS (nothing wired), played with the app, backed back out and it would barley move. I got it back in and I see these two the flashing warning indicator and I can’t activate my parking break. I check and I have fault codes P0571 and P1571.

So no ride for my over the holiday weekend? I looked on line and was confused by all the answers about those daily codes so I figured I ask you Spyder riders who have more experience.

Can someone tell me what I need to do to fix these daily codes please.

Thank you,
James Lasby

Crikey! Hope you get it sorted.

Bit of light reading for ya.

https://powersportsguide.com/can-am-fault-code-list/

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Originally Posted by JamesLaz

So I was just out getting my Spyder ready for my morning ride tomorrow and I hooked up the BRP Go app for the first time. I backed it out of my garage, pulled it back in where I could get around it. I installed in my new TPMS (nothing wired), played with the app, backed back out and it would barley move. I got it back in and I see these two the flashing warning indicator and I can’t activate my parking break. I check and I have fault codes P0571 and P1571.

So no ride for my over the holiday weekend? I looked on line and was confused by all the answers about those daily codes so I figured I ask you Spyder riders who have more experience.

Can someone tell me what I need to do to fix these daily codes please.

Thank you,
James Lasby

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Well if it were me I'd just carry a couple of pieces of wood to use as chocks ..... get it fixed after the holiday ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

What year and model are you talking about?

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

Well if it were me I'd just carry a couple of pieces of wood to use as chocks ..... get it fixed after the holiday ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

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It sounds to me he's in limp mode and can't go anywhere

Maybe check for a stuck brake switch or broken spring.

I went out last night hoping it had reset (wishful thinking) and there was another code - U0128. I did a bit more research and have disconnected my emergency brake and am having breakfast now after a nice ride. I found out how to by-pass the issue. Now I need to find out how to fix it.

My Spyder is a 2019 F3 Limited.

Thanks
James

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Originally Posted by Isopedella

Crikey! Hope you get it sorted.

Bit of light reading for ya.

https://powersportsguide.com/can-am-fault-code-list/

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This is good information. I book marked it for future reference, thanks.

Seriously!!!! Is it Aprils fools day again? So I just got home from my morning ride and I shutoff my Spyder, turned on the power and then tired the parking brake and I heard the parking brake motor kick in. I tired it a few times and it made the sound. I put my parking brake back together and it all works fine with no fault codes. What the heck is going on here? I know I know to keep some specific tools on my Spyder in case this happens again.

Thanks,
James

Thats totally awesome. :clap:

l am just learning about the Nanny System but it seems , somehow riding it a bit clears some of the codes.
Like if you adjust the belt alignment with the ass in the air for instance.
So that may have fixed it.

I didn't have time to explore the codes I posted as I had to go out, but thought it may point you in the right direction.

Hopefully you can get out there and enjoy that weekend ride. :yes:

I rode a few hundred miles over the Holiday weekend with no issues at all. I do have the needed tools on board just in case this happens again.

Thank you all for your help,

James

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Originally Posted by JamesLaz

I rode a few hundred miles over the Holiday weekend with no issues at all. I do have the needed tools on board just in case this happens again.

Thank you all for your help,

James

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these TWO things might help ...... I ALWAYS remove the Key when parked in my garage and move away from the ignition switch ( like on the seat ) .... and to completely clear the computer's .... dis-connect he Battery wires and touch them together .... then re-connect to battery ( use STAR washers on the posts ) .... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

.... and to completely clear the computer's .... dis-connect he Battery wires and touch them together .... then re-connect to battery

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Thats new for me. Care to expand on that. Like within a certain time or whatever, clears the computers ???????. :dontknow:

I do always remove my key but the night it happened I was out working on it and had the key on and off and perhaps that may have triggered whatever fault caused the error codes and for the Parking Brake to lock up. I get what Mike is saying about disconnecting the battery, that makes since but I am confused buy the touching the battery cables together part. Does this cause a reset of the computer? This would be good information to have. Thank your replies.

Thanks,
James

I just had the same issues again; well, I didn't even look at the fault codes this time.

I was out working on my Spyder, and I turned the key on but did not start it. I wanted to release the parking brake so I could roll it a bit to check my tire pressure.

Then I moved it and hit the parking brake button again and the parking brake light started blinking and it would not reengage.

This time I just manually released the parking brake by removing the connecting bracket, started it up, and the light was off.

I reattached the parking brake and it was all fine. I think I will be engaging or disengaging the parking brake only with it fully started, going forward.

Thanks,
James

I had the little e-brake issue again over the weekend. I was going to go out for a nice early morning ride and my damn brake would not release and the light flashes, for no known reason. I am just sick of this fault, for what these machines cost it is absurd that his issue exists. Why would Can Am not fix this issue? I am sick of it and think Can am should be ashamed for such a idiotic problem persisting.

A week or so ago I had it parked on an incline and got the flashing brake light of the dash, and found the fluid low, which led me to doing brake pads a few days ago, and had it up on blocks without the parking brake on and let it roll off the blocks when I was done. I rode it around the park, and everything seems fine. So I wanted to go for a ride today to do 4 40mph hard brake applications to seat in the new pads and I had a flashing brake light and codes p0571 and P1571. Shut it off and restarted and no flashing brake light. Something in the back of my mind recalls low brake fluid levels can cause the same flashing brake light. Am I wrong? This is the one I want to ride from Arizona to Washington in June, and I do not need issues out on the highway in the middle of nowhere.

Reliability is a wonderful thing when you can find it. Hope you trip proves to be trouble/worry free.

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Originally Posted by Snoking1127

A week or so ago I had it parked on an incline and got the flashing brake light of the dash, and found the fluid low, which led me to doing brake pads a few days ago, and had it up on blocks without the parking brake on and let it roll off the blocks when I was done. I rode it around the park, and everything seems fine. So I wanted to go for a ride today to do 4 40mph hard brake applications to seat in the new pads and I had a flashing brake light and codes p0571 and P1571. Shut it off and restarted and no flashing brake light. Something in the back of my mind recalls low brake fluid levels can cause the same flashing brake light. Am I wrong? This is the one I want to ride from Arizona to Washington in June, and I do not need issues out on the highway in the middle of nowhere.

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Yes low brake fluid will cause the flashing warning .....Mike :ohyea:

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Originally Posted by Snoking1127

A week or so ago I had it parked on an incline and got the flashing brake light of the dash, and found the fluid low, which led me to doing brake pads a few days ago, and had it up on blocks without the parking brake on and let it roll off the blocks when I was done. I rode it around the park, and everything seems fine. So I wanted to go for a ride today to do 4 40mph hard brake applications to seat in the new pads and I had a flashing brake light and codes p0571 and P1571. Shut it off and restarted and no flashing brake light. Something in the back of my mind recalls low brake fluid levels can cause the same flashing brake light. Am I wrong? This is the one I want to ride from Arizona to Washington in June, and I do not need issues out on the highway in the middle of nowhere.

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So, you had a low fluid level and did a brake job. Then AFTER the brake job, you got those two codes and are wondering if they can be caused by low fluid level. Well, most folks top off the fluid as part of a brake job. Consider doing that.

However, those two codes have nothing to do with fluid level. Coming straight out of the 2018 RT code list in BUDS2 - those two codes are telling you that there is a disparity between what the computer thinks is the actual Parking Brake condition, and the position indicated by the Parking Brake Light Switch. Officially called the HBS switch. One code is for engaged, the other code is for the disengaged positions. No, that's not the button on the left grip, that's coming from the little micro-switch on the front parking brake pulley.

So, pull off the right side panels. You'll see the front pulley for the parking brake cable. There's a micro-switch mounted there that is operated by a tab on the pulley. When the parking brake is disengaged, the pulley rotates CCW until the tab actuates the switch. It pushes on the little arm which pushes in on the nub coming out of the switch. When the parking brake is engaged, the pulley rotates CW, releasing the arm from the switch. The parking brake motor keeps turning until the cable gets tight from applying the brake, and then is turned off.

So, inspect, clean and lube the little arm and switch nub. Check for arm damage. Sometimes they get bent. Make sure the switch operates easily with a nice, distinct click. Inspect the harness and connector from the switch to the main harness. Also, because you had all that stuff apart for the brake job, check for excessive slack in the parking brake cable when the brake is disengaged. There should be no bowing of the cable as it exits the sheath. If there is, adjust out the slack with the adjusters on the rear caliper. Works like any other motorcycle cable adjuster.

Infrequently, that micro-switch does fail. Easy replacement.

By the way, Spyder fault codes look like OBD-II codes, but are typically re-assigned to other functions for Spyder specific needs. Simply looking up codes on Google is frequently misleading.

Thank you SS.

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By the way, Spyder fault codes look like OBD-II codes, but are typically re-assigned to other functions for Spyder specific needs.

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From the OBD-II PIDs Wikepedia

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Though not mandated, many motorcycles also support OBD-II PIDs.

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The Spyder's PIDs follow the style but not the content of "the standard OBD-II PIDs as defined by SAE J1979." Which is why

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Simply looking up codes on Google is frequently misleading.

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So, you had a low fluid level and did a brake job. Then AFTER the brake job, you got those two codes and are wondering if they can be caused by low fluid level. ... However, those two codes have nothing to do with fluid level.

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Two items for a successful pad change:

(1) Changing the rear brake pads requires the rear caliper to be removed which requires the parking brake cable to be disengaged from the caliper in some manner. In no instance should the cable adjustment lock nut be loosened and the adjustment distance changed. Changing the adjustment distance is only required if the cable stretched over time, was replaced or, perhaps, the PBM was replaced. [On a personal note, I replaced the rear caliper (along with new pads) due to the previous owner damaging the piston threads (at 77K miles the front pads were half worn but the rear pads were almost gone) and did not need to adjust the parking brake cable.]

(2) After remounting the caliper, pump the brake pedal until a firm response is obtained and then pump at least 10 more times. You need to remove the slack between the piston and the pads and the rotor and the pads. Only then should you turn on the ignition and operate the parking brake. Otherwise I believe there is the risk of over-rotation in the pulley mechanism.

There isn't much information on the WPM (which is on CANBUS) but I believe it has a torque (ie cable tension) sensor as part of its operating cycle. And this is related to the two P codes.

If the cable adjustment was changed, dig out the Service Manual and follow the procedure for correct adjustment.

Some notes from my 2014 Service Manual:

PARKING BRAKE DOES NOT WORK

1. Faulty WPM module or wiring.
- Check if windshield works properly.
- Carry out a WPM MODULE SIGNAL CIRCUIT CONTINUITY TEST.

2. Faulty PBS switch or wiring.
- Carry out a PARKING BRAKE SWITCH TEST.

3. Faulty HBS switch or wiring.
- Carry out a PARKING BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH TEST.

4. Faulty parking brake motor or wiring.
- Carry out a PARKING BRAKE MOTOR OPERATION TEST.

5. Wrong parking brake cable adjustment.
- Carry out a PARKING BRAKE CABLE ADJUSTMENT.

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BRAKE SYSTEM PRESSURE VALIDATION

NOTICE Do not pump up the brake pedal repeatedly before doing the validation.

In B.U.D.S., select Monitoring folder then the VCM page.

Slowly depress the brake pedal (only once) until you reach 3500 kPa (508 PSI) at the brake pressure sensor.
Maintain the brake pedal in position.
Check the Low Pressure Switch button value on the computer screen.

TYPICAL
1. Brake Pressure Sensor (PSI) value
2. Low Pressure Switch button

If Low Pressure Switch button is still off when you reached the required pressure the validation is successful.
If Low Pressure Switch button turns on before reaching 3500 kPa (508 PSI), perform the following additional steps:
Perform equivalent of 3 complete wheels rotation (for the 3 wheels).
Slowly depress the brake pedal until Low Pressure Switch button turns on.
Take note of the Brake Pressure Sensor (PSI) value.
Perform equivalent of 3 complete wheels rotation (for the 3 wheels).
Slowly depress the brake pedal until Low Pressure Switch button turns on.
Take note of the Brake Pressure Sensor (PSI) value.
Perform equivalent of 3 complete wheels rotation (for the 3 wheels).
Slowly depress the brake pedal until Low Pressure Switch button turns on.
Take note of the Brake Pressure Sensor (PSI) value.
Calculate the average of the 3 Brake Pressure Sensor (PSI) values previously noted.
If the average is EQUAL OR ABOVE 3500 kPa (508 PSI), the brake system pressure is conform.
Clear fault codes.

If the average is BELOW 3500 kPa (508 PSI), repeat BRAKE FLUID BLEEDING PROCEDURE with the following deviation:
– Lift the rear of vehicle and adjust master cylinder on level.

Ignoring the BUDS aspect, the theme above is repeatedly testing if the Low Pressure switch is activated (you can hear it click if it does). If it is then a low brake fluid level is a possibility as is trapped air in the brake lines.

Just found some Spyder DTC information by r.s.wenzel aka member spyderCodes

P0571 WPM HBS switch fault

P1571 WPM HBS switch deactivation fault