14k service questions...

I'm (slightly over-) due for the 14k service on my 2016 ST-S, purchased new in Jan 2018.
When I was scheduling the service, I asked about replacing the brake fluid, as noted in the MOM.
The service manager said they inspect but do not change it unless they felt it necessary, e.g. dirty. He also told me its about 3 hours/$300.

Same with the coolant, they inspect but do not replace unless necessary, about 1-1.5 hours...though this is not indicated in the MOM.

Thoughts on either of these? I'm leaning towards just having the brake fluid replaced.

Everything else I'm fine with, and I've been happy with this dealer so far...except for their unwillingness to install non-Kenda tires, but I've already dealt with the rear (had another dealer install a Kumho Ecsta last week) and will probably deal with the fronts (leaning to Federals) in the near future.

And no...I'm not too keen on doing too much of my own work...a man's gotta know his limitations :joke:

I took my wheels to Discount Tire to mount my Federals. They did not have the correct cone to balance them. Smart Car guy ahead of me had the same issue. Reports for Federals needing very little weight, and the tire tech said it mounted them with the dot aligned with the valve stem. Brought them home and put them back on. They are running nice a smooth! Big improvement in handling.

Read pg. 95 of your operator's guide. It says replace brake fluid at 14,000 miles or every two years (whichever comes first). Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. That's why you change it, not just because it gets dirty. Ask the service manager just how they "feel" it needs changing. "Feeling" is a prelude to sex, which in NJ could mean you're getting screwed by the dealership. :gaah: The flat rate manual for my Spyder says 3.4 hrs to bleed brakes but I've never paid more than $180 at 2 hrs of labor and even at that service I had other things done and was at the dealership less than 2 hours total. The two other times I had it changed, at a different dealership, now closed, I was charged based on .8hr and 1.0 hr, respectively for $92.00 and $106.00, respectively (the $92 included a veteran's discount). Your coolant is supposed to be changed at 28,000 miles or five years, pg. 95. My Op Guide says same thing and I checked with BRPCare, asking them if it was also supposed to say "whichever comes first," and they said "yes," 28K or five years, whichever comes first.

STS: that's a 998 twin...service manual suggests doing a valve check. Don't waste $1500.00 for that.

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Originally Posted by JayBros

Read pg. 95 of your operator's guide. It says replace brake fluid at 14,000 miles or every two years (whichever comes first). Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. That's why you change it, not just because it gets dirty. Ask the service manager just how they "feel" it needs changing. "Feeling" is a prelude to sex, which in NJ could mean you're getting screwed by the dealership. :gaah: The flat rate manual for my Spyder says 3.4 hrs to bleed brakes but I've never paid more than $180 at 2 hrs of labor and even at that service I had other things done and was at the dealership less than 2 hours total. The two other times I had it changed, at a different dealership, now closed, I was charged based on .8hr and 1.0 hr, respectively for $92.00 and $106.00, respectively (the $92 included a veteran's discount). Your coolant is supposed to be changed at 28,000 miles or five years, pg. 95. My Op Guide says same thing and I checked with BRPCare, asking them if it was also supposed to say "whichever comes first," and they said "yes," 28K or five years, whichever comes first.

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In Arizona we do not even have to drain moisture from compressors!!!!

Thanks JayBros and ARTraveler...
I will call back and ask if the cost of brake fluid flush/fill is "additional" or some overlap with the 14k service.

As for the valve check, this is supposed to be included in the cost of the service, which has been estimated at $700 +/-, not in addition to.
I'll confirm this as well.

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Originally Posted by ARtraveler

STS: that's a 998 twin...service manual suggests doing a valve check. Don't waste $1500.00 for that.

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:agree: X's 100 ..... and what's worse is the dealers know the valve's don't need adjusting until may be 100,000 mi. .... but they do know how to charge you for " allegedly " doing it..... If you have someone to assist you a " brake flush " doesn't re-quire a master mechanic to do it. There are plenty of post / threads on the forum explaining how it's do .... Many, many folks here don't bother with the " BUDS " thing because the amount of fluid that it will " fix " is very small .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

RE: Valve checks. Most of the members on the site will agree that the valve check service is overkill. Now that the 998/twin has come and gone, what many of us have been saying for years is turning out to be right on.

I consider myself a site beta tester when it comes to the valve checks. As a new owner in 2008, I did what the manual and the dealer suggested. I did the requested valve check. NO adjustments were needed. My next valve check was done at 28,000 on a different Spyder. A 2010 RT'S. That did not need any adjustments either. Both valve check services cost me $1500. I had the "usual" oil change/filter checkover stuff which usually cost me $350 at the dealer. It was a part of the $1500 totals. The dealer screwed up the valve check on the 2010. It was done as my last service of the year. I found a puddle of oil under the bike a month or so later. I took that back to the dealer in the Spring and they had to fix it on their dime. They did not put a new gasket in when originally done.

As Blueknight mentioned above. There are some dealers that I suspect would charge a client for the service and do nothing...because they knew it was a worthless service in most cases. In both my cases I knew the dealer had the bike tore down.

I was going to think about it at 50K on my future 998's (I have had four of them), but never made it past 45K before trading them off. None had any valve problems.