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Considering doing my FIRST oil change and have found video's on YouTube with examples of 1330 oil changes for the year 2014 RT and 2015 RT.
Wondering if these videos would be the same and apply for the 2017 RT LIMITED 1330 OIL CHANGE???
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated:clap:
They will be the same for 2014 through 2018 RT'sQuote:
Originally Posted by Tennis4040
Watch this video; IMO it's the best one. Shawn talks a lot but he has some very good points:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb...ature=youtu.be.
Remember, T45 Torx bit for crankcase, 6mm Allen for clutch cover, a.k.a. transmission. Torque for crankcase plug 21 lbft, +/- 1 lbft, Clutch cover plug, 15 lbft, +/- 1 lbft, Oil filter cover, 18 lbft, +/- 2 lbft
THANKS FOR THE RESPONSES:yes:
One last question, I do see two plugs, ONE for OIL and ONE for GEAR, correct.
I only see that you REFILL in the OIL FILLER BUT NO where did I see a GEAR FILLER???
So does this oil separate after the oil change within the engine design to both oil/gear compartments ???
One fill point for both engine and transmission.
A point to remember: do not replace the drain plugs or remove the drain pan(s) until you have drained the oil filter canister. When you break the seal on the oil filter canister you probably will hear additional oil draining into the pan(s). I think this additional waste oil out the transmission drain hole, at least that's where it sounds to me like it is draining from, but I am very hard of hearing.
Some of us owners who change our own oil will use a Dremel tool to open up the 2 drain holes in the plastic at the drain points. It really does make the job a bit easier and less messy.
Lew L
The enlarged drain plug access allows oil to drain without getting the oil all over the place
I’d be afraid I’d cut the wires making the opening larger. Can it be done safer by hand?
Not much to it. If you have a lift it makes it easier, but ramps work fine too. Pop the right mirror off, then remove the two panels. The front most panel doesn't have any screws, but the longer upper panel has a few. Pull the filter canister, then remove the drain plugs, that will help all of the oil to drain. A little will stay in if ya don't remove the filter cartridge. The mirror is the hardest part of the whole process, unless you have Magic Mirrors (which I recommend if you like to do your own work)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennis4040
You dont need to cut the plastic larger. Take out the drain plugs and they drain just fine.
It does help if you lift the Spyder some gives you more clearance to gte under the bike.
One drain is on the left the other on the right side
I agree. I roll a piece of paper towel and put it up in the space between the plastic panel and the engine at the the crankcase plug hole and have never even had it get oily.Quote:
Originally Posted by trikermutha
[QUOTE=trikermutha;1399967]You dont need to cut the plastic larger. Take out the drain plugs and they drain just fine.
QUOTE]
I also agree. Yeah, it'll splash some oil if ya dink around with the drain plugs too long, but I've never wished the clearance around the drain plugs was bigger. When you're at the last couple threads ya just gotta be a bit quick about getting them out of the way of the oil stream.
Just changed mine today! When you loosen the Torx drain plug, just unscrew it a couple of turns to let oil out. It will drain for a bit, then stop. Unscrew the loosened plug a few more turns, and let it drain some more. If you do this a little at a time, you won't get oil all over the inside of the plastic. The majority of the oil from the engine/transmission will come from this drain plug. Once you've done it a few times, it becomes a piece of cake to do! Just take your time, don't be in a hurry, and be sure the Torx bit and the allen bit are securely in their respective drain plugs before applying torque to loosen/tighten them.
:shocked: THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT INFORMATION !!! :shocked:
2 more questions ??
Does changing your own oil impact the WARRANTY in any ways ???
How would this maintenance impact data in the BUDS2 SYSTEM or do you just track this maintenance yourself on paper without BUDS2 ever documenting this work???
Just keep receipts just in c as se and do your own documentationQuote:
Originally Posted by Tennis4040
Absolutely not! The Magnusson Moss Warranty Act protects you unless BRP can prove something YOU did caused a failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennis4040
FWIW, the first time I changed my own oil and started the engine to check for leaks, waiting for the red oil pressure light on the cluster to go out seemed like forever despite the fact that it was less than five seconds. And I'd been doing oil changes on all kinds of engines for years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennis4040
Just keep receipts for the materials and a log of doing the work. In case of major warranty claim, BRP will ask for it. Been there and done that. But was no big deal as all the work had been done. Most dealers do not log the service in BUDS anyway.