I've mounted Acerbis Dual Road handguards with 17572 mount kit. No problems with mirror view except when the handlebars are on the top, although the problem is not the handguards, but the controller set. Added some Liqui Moly to the screws.
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I've mounted Acerbis Dual Road handguards with 17572 mount kit. No problems with mirror view except when the handlebars are on the top, although the problem is not the handguards, but the controller set. Added some Liqui Moly to the screws.
Two days ago, I changed the oil and filters on my 2012 RT SE5 for the first time by myself. Dealer does it quicker, but hey, gotta learn sometime right?
Today I was in the garage and gave it a good wax on, wax off; and it is now shiny and looking good :thumbup:
Replaced the 28 month old battery on my 2020. It was throwing a sporadic VSS code and sounding different when cranking. Put it on a battery tender until fully charged and it was still so dead the dash would not even light. Dealer was the only one in the area with the correct battery. All is good now. Seems to even run and shift better .
What a lot of Junk just to make the intake quiet, finally got ambitious enough to do it. Now I got lots of area free around the engine. ;)
It was a mildly irritating Saturday working on the tryke. We had three things to do - sway bar, NBV pegs and BRP armrests. We decided to tackle the sway bar first.
Now some time ago, I asked on this site how would I tell if I have a Bajaron sway bar. I was told to look for the end links - if they were plastic, then I didn't have one. Well, I'm here to say that's not correct in my case. We went through all the effort to get the sway bar out only to find the Bajaron decal on it. Measured the bars with calipers (just in case) and they're the same size. How annoying, I could have just bought the upgraded end links and done less work. So, since everything was apart and I had it on hand, we put the new one in.
Anyone want a used sway bar?
While we had it all apart, we went for the NBV brackets next. Watched a couple of videos that weren't clear enough for us apparently. It took us a couple tries to figure out what went in front or behind the bottom bracket mounting point so that everything would line up. We got it all together with the ISO pegs and it looks good. Haven't taken a long ride yet, but the pegs feel nice and give me another angle. Also I can rest my heels on the floor boards and my toes on the pegs.
Sadly, since we started late we didn't have time to get to the BRP Arm rests.
Got word yesterday that my M2 shocks are due to be shipped this week. That's going to be a serious project.
After that, I'm looking at a new seat.
Maybe I should have just bought a newer tryke?
So, someone gave you some bad advice. Of course that would be a logical thought, but as you discovered, it is possible to install Ron's bar without the end links. Just as some install his links without replacing the bar. I'm not sure why anyone would, but apparently your previous owner did. Lesson learned.
Replaced OEM air filter with K&N high flow filter. Not sure if it's gonna make a difference, but still, it's done.
Moved the seat heater switch next to the grip heater switch, Shoulda been there originally.
Wifes bike - 2020 Spyder RTL
Already did sway bar and air filter
Just added amber and red led lights to the fenders and amber turn signals on the back of the mirrors
Now she wants the added led tail lights/turn signals to the back of the side bags
Installed Wilbers Shocks Front and rear with an HPA for easy adjustment between 1 and 2 up riding. Went out for a solo test ride and also one with the wife.
It is a night and day difference from the stock shocks to this.
Got around to installing the BRP armrests. The right side was a real pain as I couldn't get the antenna unscrewed so I had to do it that really hard way. But they're on and look great. Waiting on the shocks to show up so we can fix the air system at the same time. Then we'll test everything out.
I replaced the back panel on my 2020 RT with a LinQ Rack as the stock cover cracked and did not accept a fiberglass repair job. I did remove all the finished and prepped the surface really well, but the resin simply lifted off with almost no effort. Instead of messing with it any further, I decided to add the Rack. It fits really well and seems considerably more substantial compared to the OEM cover that seems to be engineered to fail.
Brought my new-to-me 2017 RTL home on a flat deck
It was nice wet snow so it was like it went through a 35km-long car wash, so all the dust from 2 years of sitting came off easily. Tomorrow starts the fiddling and farkling.
Yesterday I replaced my battery minder cable with a longer, beefier one, then added a 12v and dual USB power unit to the handlebars. I used an SAE type plug that I can plug into the battery minder cord when underway.
Finished install of Kumho rear tire. 8019 miles on stock Kenda and the center was bald. Adjusted e-brake. Change oil and filter, new o-rings this time around as well. 3.25 quarts of 10w40, 2 quarts of 20w50. Change air filter with factory Can Am. Took it for a spin.
Kenda tire with 8019 miles is average, but the mixing of two different weight motor oils caught my attention. Is this something you do on every oil change or an experiment? Not saying good or bad, just inquisitive ! = a "13w43" approximate
Good Luck :thumbup: .Bill
Carbo, interesting on the oil change. I was thinking almost the same on the oil, 2.25 quarts of 5/40, and 2 quarts of 15/40. Thanks for the comment.
My spyder is still in hibernation. I did not do anything to it.
I am counting the days down for when my spyder will be getting out of hibernation!( Off topic: Sleds are sleeping)
Deanna
Oil is kinda of my thing.
The math you did, doesn't work, though, with oil and viscosity. There are tools on the web, one being the Widman Viscosity Calculator, that pretty accurately gets you the cold and hot points for viscosity of fluid blends. I actually simply thickened the hot point of the 40 weight to the top of the API 40 weight viscosity scale. I don't care about the cold side, the garage has never been below 40 degrees, and we are moving into warm weather rapidly. But I want, for me, and me alone, your mileage may vary, the thickest oil in the sump I can get, and still stay in the spirit of what CanAm is calling for. I ran Motul 15w50 once, and the engine was slightly hotter (temp gun) and general performance just felt off. BUT that stuff is really thick, at the high end of the 50 weight scale. Folks are going to chime in about how this isn't right, can't do that, stay with 40 weight, run CanAm oil, blah blah, run the AmSoil pyramid scheme, get your supplies from so and so. Nah, I'm fine, the Spyder is happy on this blend, and it's what I plan on doing for a long time.
Don't know. Is what it is. I assume with confidence that riding style plays a much larger part in MPG than the difference between the top and bottom of the 40 weight viscosity scale. That, and the variation in pump swlll we get here in USA.....
That is certainly the 'traditional' expectation, but I think you'd be very surprised at how much difference running even just a slightly heavier oil than recommended can make!! :shocked:
I've seen it first-hand in many vehicles & vehicle types, and I've noticed that those Spyders here in Oz that run even slightly heavier oils never seem to be amongst those getting the best mileage, so was wondering about yours too... :dontknow:
Got some magic mirrors and plan to put those on soon. Probably the same time I change the oil, tranny filter and air filter.