Thanks. Glad the guys are getting some of yours done. Are you learning yet how to do some? Not hard.
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Let's see...."learning how to do some".....does refilling their drinks, grabbing my hair dryer and learning what a 1,1/8 hole saw count???:opps::opps::opps:
I am totally dependent on them.:bowdown: Although I think I am going to attempt putting on the decals myself.:thumbup:
I left out Tim and Christie on the last post....Sorry Tim.
The No Magic Neon LED brake lights are installed and they are awesome! They are considerably brighter than the stock incandescents (don't know by what factor)... and they're apparently designed to never trigger the nanny... even if the LEDs go south... which is highly unlikely for a very, very long time.
See the pic below... daylight in the garage... my buddy, the weed eater, is holding down the brake pedal. :D
Install hints... total time required was less than 30 minutes:
1. Remove the seven #30 Torx screws which hold the under-the-seat / over-the-tire plastic pan in place. Set the pan aside.
2. Remove the rear two plastic rivets (under seat) for both black side covers... the ones with the "Spyder" decals... if you still have the decals. Lightly pull the side covers away from the bike and block them to keep them away using rags or anything else you have handy.
3. Release the securing tabs and flip the tail cover up (you've already removed the one screw in (1) above).
4. Remove each tail light by removing the two #30 Torx screws. Both extend up with the Torx head facing down.
a. One is very easy to get to... the rear most, in the center... exposed by removing the cover in (3) above.
b. The second #30 Torx screw is a little harder to find... in the front of the taillight, somewhat high. I used a small mirror and flashlight to position the screwdriver with the Torx bit.
5. If you purchased just the LEDs (and not the entire assembly as I did), follow the NMN directions for bulb removal and LED insertion.
6. Reassemble in reverse order... except if you don't have extra hands to help, install the rear-most, center screw first on each side. There are two small positioning prongs which fit in a slot extending from the screw hole. I tried to re-install the forward/high screw first (to make it easier) and couldn't get the positioning prongs to then fit the slot on the rear/center screw.
Update: At night, these lights are really bright... very visible.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...pictureid=2419
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...&pictureid=275
.I WANT TO NO WHERE TO GET THE FUZZ BOX SET UP AND HOW MUCH
MOST OF US WANT TO NO WHERE TO PICK IT UP PLEASE:pray: LET US NO THANK YOU DONNY VT228 :thumbup:
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/pict...&pictureid=424
Love your set up. Brilliant.
.... I've had the fender on for about eight months now.
Today, while removing the rear tire for replacement, I noticed a small hairline crack forming from the upper right of the Frenched-in license plate. The small hole is one I drilled to prevent the spread of the crack. Will use touch-up paint to fill in.
Also, by using a car jack under the rear frame (with the help of a piece of 2" x 4"), I was able to remove the tire without messing with the fender. So... that's out of the loop, anyway.
Have I said before that this fender is the ONLY mod on the Spyder I would NOT do again?
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...pictureid=3974
I have finally completed this thread.. And I am very impressed. Nice Bike ATA.
... first mod today in quite a while. I'm running out of things to do!
I ordered the Mel's Monster Garage fresh air intake from eBay last week ($89 + shipping) and put it on today. Fast service!
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...pictureid=4719
Installation
The right side black covers (mid and front) need to be removed. I won't go into that detail in this post... easy stuff.
The stock rubber air intake snorkels need to be removed by forcing them from the box... there are flexible internal and external rubber flanges on the snorkels... I removed by pulling the snorkels into the air box as I had the lid off already. Sorry... no pics on that but it is easy.
The underside of the stock front air intake needs a little slicing for this mod. I used a Dremel to remove the rear 3" of the intake (red X in the below pic) per the MMG instructions which are very good, BTW. Large pics are included.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...pictureid=4715
Once the small section was removed, I used a file and sand paper to clean up the cuts. The MMG intake mates to the stock air vent like this... with a rubber joint connector:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...pictureid=4716
The other end (rear) of the MMG intake is a "force fit" into the stock air box. The fit leaves a minor open area on my air box (maybe 1/64") but that is no big deal as it is upstream of the air filter. If desired, black RTV could be used to seal it up.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...pictureid=4717
I did add a drain hole (just in case) at the very bottom of the intake... it slants down from the front and then slants up to the air box. I had a feeling that the duct will probably collect and retain water in a rain storm. And because of the way the stock air box is constructed (air flow in is below the filter), water will not make it to the engine.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...pictureid=4718
Sometimes I make stuff... sometimes I buy. In this case, I'm glad I bought as the finished product is next to invisible and once spotted, looks like it belongs! Is it worth $89? For me, it was... I still have not recovered from the dual pipe marathon. :D
Performance
After some Juice Box tuning (.5, 7,7,2,2), I believe the combination of the intake plus the JB is pretty close to being as effective as the race air flow filter/JB combination. The new combination is awesome and the bike strongly pulls to red line in all five gears! Plus, no additional intake noise!
psssst... didn't try reverse performance :D.
I'm glad you bought that. I've considered it but just haven't had the extra $90 that wasn't earmarked for other mods, toys, etc. I'm curious to hear how it performs. :popcorn:
Actually, Brian, I'm not concerned about that at all. Fresh air is fresh air, regardless of how you get it from in front of the radiator. This one might produce less turbulent air because of the "smoothness" of the inside but that really doesn't matter, either. :thumbup:
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wow you are a true crafstman keep it up love to wach you mods:congrats: