Get the rear axel nut loose

I wish I had a good air wrench. But since I don't, I tried to use my own power to loosen the rear axel nut on the right side of the bike.
I need to take some of the tension off the drive belt. Im getting 200 pounds on my Gates meter that I just bought in order to check it.
Also my drive belt is only about 10-12 thousands away from the shoulder on the rear sprocket.
But I couldn't break it loose. Anybody have any ideas other than buying a new air wrench?

Not sure what you are using to try to break the axle nut loose but you may need to purchase a wrench that is long enough to get you some leverage or use a breaker bar and socket to get it loose.

I've got the breaker bar and socket.
I'm going out to get a 2-3 foot piece of pipe in order to get even more leverage.

Thanks much, Jim

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Originally Posted by JimSter

I've got the breaker bar and socket.
I'm going out to get a 2-3 foot piece of pipe in order to get even more leverage.

Thanks much, Jim

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I was going to suggest this - however you figured it …… :congrats: good for you ….. Mike :ohyea:

Here are the parts I bought and made. Advantage is getting a torque wrench for 180 pounds in the mix. Minimum for the belt is 1mm or 0.04"

>36mm socket which works with the oil filter too<

>1/2 inch torque wrench / breaker bar<

>36mm box/open end wrench< cut in half for use

Or maybe a 36mm hammer wrench...............

What year do you have, Jim? They really tightened those nuts up from 2013 on. I needed to get a 3/4” drive and a 2.5’ breaker bar to get my 2016 Limited loose. They jumped from roughly 90 pounds to roughly 160 pounds from 2013. :shocked:

Pete

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Originally Posted by Rattlebars

Here are the parts I bought and made. Advantage is getting a torque wrench for 180 pounds in the mix. Minimum for the belt is 1mm or 0.04"

>36mm socket which works with the oil filter too<

>1/2 inch torque wrench / breaker bar<

>36mm box/open end wrench< cut in half for use

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Ok, I give up . . . I've got a 36mm box/open-end wrench but what's the reason you cut it in half ? (I've also got a 3/4" drive torque wrench with 36mm socket in my tool chest - breaker bar too). Obviously I haven't had the occasion to loosen my rear axle yet so this is useful information.

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Originally Posted by LifeLongRider

Ok, I give up . . . I've got a 36mm box/open-end wrench but what's the reason you cut it in half ? (I've also got a 3/4" drive torque wrench with 36mm socket in my tool chest - breaker bar too). Obviously I haven't had the occasion to loosen my rear axle yet so this is useful information.

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With a cut wrench you can flatten the end of a water pipe down some and use it as a cheater. If you don't saw the wrench in half you can only double wrench for a cheater, which is a good way to need some new skin on your knuckles.

If you have the 3/4 inch breaker bar you shouldn't need a cut off wrench. You can just put the cheater pipe on the breaker bar if you need more umph.

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Originally Posted by Gwolf

With a cut wrench you can flatten the end of a water pipe down some and use it as a cheater. If you don't saw the wrench in half you can only double wrench for a cheater, which is a good way to need some new skin on your knuckles.

If you have the 3/4 inch breaker bar you shouldn't need a cut off wrench. You can just put the cheater pipe on the breaker bar if you need more umph.

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Thanks, that makes perfect sense. If I remember correctly, my 3/4" breaker bar is 24" I believe which should be plenty long enough. My 3/4" drive torque wrench is 34" long.

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Originally Posted by LifeLongRider

Thanks, that makes perfect sense. If I remember correctly, my 3/4" breaker bar is 24" I believe which should be plenty long enough. My 3/4" drive torque wrench is 34" long.

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One thing about that......... you may want to carry a cut off wrench with you. You can always find a piece of pipe somewhere (hardware store, plumbing supply, Lowe's, etc.) to use as a cheater. It would be a lot easier to store a sawed wrench on the bike than to try to find a place to carry a 2 foot breaker bar.

I took mine off two days ago, used a socket on a 24" breaker bar and a 4 ft long piece of 3/4" water pipe.

Ditto for re-torquing it

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Originally Posted by LifeLongRider

Ok, I give up . . . I've got a 36mm box/open-end wrench but what's the reason you cut it in half ? (I've also got a 3/4" drive torque wrench with 36mm socket in my tool chest - breaker bar too). Obviously I haven't had the occasion to loosen my rear axle yet so this is useful information.

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I think the whole deal is that you can easily put it in the tool bag and travel with it! If you have room for the breaker bar and socket ev:ohyea:en better on your body!!

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Originally Posted by LifeLongRider

Ok, I give up . . . I've got a 36mm box/open-end wrench but what's the reason you cut it in half ? (I've also got a 3/4" drive torque wrench with 36mm socket in my tool chest - breaker bar too). Obviously I haven't had the occasion to loosen my rear axle yet so this is useful information.

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It's pretty long so it's easier to store on the bike in two pieces. You need to hold one side of the axle while turning the other side nut. The open end will go over the right side nut while still keeping the cotter key installed for belt tensioning. If you have bags installed, the wrenches fit nicely while a socket is a b**ch. If you watch the video, it will be clear as to the advantage of cutting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_Ewxr7qwqo