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Does anyone have a good reason why we are supposed to run our Spyders at idle for 1/2 hr before checking the oil? Yes, I know it is a dry sump, but when you shut the engine off, the oil will drain back to the sump in just a few minutes. You don't have to run the engine for 30 minutes before shutting down.:dontknow:
The recommendation on Page 125 in the manual says ride 9 miles, and and let idle 10 minutes, check within 2 minutes and gives Reliable oil level for your 1330 engine. I've tried other ways and the oil always varies...... this way has always worked with no surprises, 5 years and 3 1330's running for me....
Your right. I knew that. Why did I suddenly think it was 25 minutes? Now to figure out a way to see the oil on the dipstick when you have fresh, clean oil in the sump. Easy when the oil is nice and dirty, not so easy when clean.:banghead:Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroPilot
I think a lot of idling is worse for an engine than being off by a 1/16" of an inch on the dipstick. The best time to do an oil level check is at the end of a ride or during a ride at a gas station. You only need to let it idle for 30 seconds or so to get the oil level balanced out between the dry sump and the reservoir. And you don't have to wait that long to check unless you're using BRP or similar oils that tend to foam a lot. If there is any foam at the top of your dip stick, you need to wait until it's gone.
Yes, the oil will drain back into the dry sump somewhat. But it doesn't happen all that fast as I believe there is valving that is designed to prevent this from happening. But you have at least 2 minutes. And I would say you could do a fair amount longer without issue. All of the parameters surrounding the BRP check recommendations are probably far into the safe zone with a good deal of safe space provided.
The dry sump system is a pain, its to bad they couldn't use a sight glass some how!
There are three scavenge pumps in the engine that return oil in the dry sump system to the oil tank. That's why the operator's guide says to run the engine at idle for 10 min after bringing it to normal operating temperature; to let the scavenge pumps do their work. That's normal operating temperature of the oil too, not the coolant which registers on the Temp gauge. The scavenge pumps are simple gear pumps and the guide says to check the oil level within two minutes because once the engine is turned off, the weight of the oil in the tank and gravity begins to force oil back through the scavenge pumps into the crankcase. If you wait more than 10 minutes you have no idea how much oil has flowed back into the crankcase. The two minutes has been determined to be an adequate time for the oil level in the tank to have dropped to a level that will still give you an accurate reading of the level relative to the Min mark on the dipstick. Since after two minutes, say 10 minutes for the sake of argument, if you attempt to measure the amount of oil on the dipstick there is no way you can accurately know how much oil has drained back into the crankcase and therefore what the total volume of oil is in the engine. That's why you are not supposed to check the level in a cold engine because of the risk of overfilling it if you take the level shown on the dipstick as accurate and add oil to what you think is a low oil level.
Wow Jaybros that was a quite in depth answer....3 scavenger pumps in these motors? What is the point of that? because BRP didn't want to put oil channels to the crankcase?
What oil pan?Quote:
Originally Posted by mavrik
If you have a 1330, put 5qts in it and ride it like you stole it. You don't have to check the oil because it doesn't use any. At least mine doesn't and that's what other people on this site have said. Well, maybe check it every now and then just incase you get a small leak you didn't know you had. Besides, you've got and idiot light on the dash that will tell you that you are low on oil if you lose any.
I agree with 2dogs that five qts and riding off in whatever manner one chooses will be fine because the 1330 ACE engine just does not use oil. It is also wise to check the level periodically because, IMO, betting on the idiot light is not wise because when it comes on it's time to stop the engine immediately. If you're in East Arm Pit on the far side of beyond replenishment oil might be hard to find.
When I change my oil I always add 5 quarts and then another 8 ounces. Then I check every 2000 to 3000 miles. Has always worked for me.
Shawn Smoaks...shows that in his video also (if you don't know who he is check out youtube, he is a very accomplished mechanic at a spyder/bmw dealer and video individual) that he fills his machine up with 5 quarts and goes for a ride, he knows that level will be totally fine but checks it anyway after driving it quite some time only to add about 8oz.
If you do find yourself stuck in East Arm Pit in need of oil, any diesel grade oil will be ok. It should not contain the additives and slickeners that normal car oils have in them now days which will harm our wet clutches. It will mix ok and get you home in good shape.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
I can attest to that! Last spring I decided to check the oil level after my RT had sat without starting all winter. The dipstick was totally dry. I did not add any oil but headed right out for a ride and checked the oil after. Right on the full mark!Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
No, you have an Idiot lite that tells you don't have oil pressure. By that time it may be too late!!!!
The dry sump engine system is used on motorcycles and many other recreational vehicles because it allows for a compact engine design that can sit low in the frame. That lets the engine mount a lot lower to the frame and give you a lower center of gravity because you don't have another 4 or 5 inches of oil pan on the bottom of the engine. The oil reservoir can be located any place in the frame that is convenient. It is not real problem checking the oil like it is supposed to be checked. The same reasoning goes into having the cylinders slanted forward. That allows for a long stroke without increasing the height of the engine or raising the center of gravity. A sight glass would not do any good at all. It would not be any more accurate than the dipstick unless to ran the engine for several miles and then checked the oil. You don't have to stop at exactly 9 miles and check the oil. You can just get in the habit of checking your oil when you stop for gas or when you get home and shut it off in the garage. The reading will be accurate.
In court testimonies during a previous incarnation I watched more than one judge toss out a plaintiff's claim when he/she responded that they did not turn off the engine immediately when the no oil pressure light came on.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcoats1
:coffee: All very helpful Options and TIPS. BRP has this oil check on the MONEY. I have a 2016 RTL and Always check the Oil after a run. My 2.....:thumbup: