900 Ryker Loose Front Wheel

Was riding and heard a new "clicking" sound from the right front wheel area. Stopping and inspecting showed the wheel nut was loose. I nursed it home a couple miles and called my dealer. (Maxim Powersports, Merrillville Indiana. Great Folks)

They send a tow truck out the next day and took mine with the issue and my wife's, without an issue, just to be sure. Checking the torque on all four front wheel showed my right front was the only loose one. But I did learn some interesting tech bulletin steps. The dealer said the nuts should be retorqued after 500 miles as everything will be seated by then. He also said, and I thing this is the real take away. When you tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque and the hole for the keeper pin does not line up, TIGHTEN the nut to line up the hole. This is different from every other similar nut and keeper set up I have seen in 40 years of wrenching. That said I can accept that it would make a huge difference if someone slightly backed off the nut to align the hole for the red clip. Hope this helps everyone.

I have orederd the socket and will be checking the torque every 100, then 250, then 500 miles until I am satisfied with the nut staying torqued. Also I will be putting a small white paint dot at the top of the nut so any movement wil be easily spotted.

Safe riding everyone
Mac

FYI, an SAE 2 1/2" socket fits perfect. $22 at Northern Tool. I will be checking mine also but just picked up my Rally Friday.

Hello Mac,
what do you mean by those sentences?

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When you tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque and the hole for the keeper pin does not line up, TIGHTEN the nut to line up the hole. This is different from every other similar nut and keeper set up I have seen in 40 years of wrenching. That said I can accept that it would make a huge difference if someone slightly backed off the nut to align the hole for the red clip.

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Can you insert a picture with a description? Thank you very much.

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Originally Posted by Batmobil-F3

Hello Mac,
what do you mean by those sentences?


Can you insert a picture with a description? Thank you very much.

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There are hole's all around the axle where the safety/keeper pin has to be inserted. What he is saying is once you reach the torque value if the hole's don't line up tighten the nut a little more until they do line up, don't back off the nut to make them align because if you do that you aren't meeting the torque specs. The torque value is actually 221 ft. lbs +/- 11 ft. lbs so you have some tolerance in the value.

Wheel torque update

It has been 3 months since my wheel nut worked loose. I have ridden several hundred miles and am happy to report the wheel nuts have stayed torqued. I checked the over the weekend and all three are at 221 ft pounds.

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Originally Posted by amachoward

Wheel torque update

It has been 3 months since my wheel nut worked loose. I have ridden several hundred miles and am happy to report the wheel nuts have stayed torqued. I checked the over the weekend and all three are at 221 ft pounds.

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cool....

I have a Rally with less than 300 miles on it. It's been raining a lot. I like the Rally but did not like the partial rear fender as it throws dirt and water up on the passenger. I ordered a rear fender on line for about $63 and decided to install it myself. It requires that you take the rear wheel off. AND you have to have a socket to fit the hub nut. Anyway, I purchased a 2 1/2" Klutch socket from Amazon (it shipped from Northern Tool) and also ended up buying a torque wrench that would handle 250lbs. Long story shorter, when I took the hub nut off, it was way too easy to come off. It took little effort, so I know it was not torqued to specs. Before I take it out again, I plan to check the torque on my front wheels, as well as the TIRE pressure. They look kind of low, but it might be my imagination.

Interesting....Rykers come shipped with the rear wheels already installed. Dealer just installs front wheel and a few other things, so your low torque rear nut was most likely out of the factory in Mexico.

A Can-Am made in Mexico? Shouldn't it be named a Mex-Can?:yes::yes:

When researching Can-Ams, I did hear rumors on one or two YouTube reviews of Rykers that the wheels coming loose was not an uncommon issue. I think mainly owing to the one-lug wheel design. I could definitely see a new owner or two not heeding the maintenance schedule & skipping the retorquing of the wheels @ 500.

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Originally Posted by Knight

When researching Can-Ams, I did hear rumors on one or two YouTube reviews of Rykers that the wheels coming loose was not an uncommon issue. I think mainly owing to the one-lug wheel design. I could definitely see a new owner or two not heeding the maintenance schedule & skipping the retorquing of the wheels @ 500.

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Yep, and those owners will be the one's bashing CanAm about a bad design and probably don't even own a torque wrench. You can't fix stupid.

Another good reason to order the RPS socket nut :)
Can-Am Ryker Wheel Socket Tool

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Originally Posted by KC61

Yep, and those owners will be the one's bashing CanAm about a bad design and probably don't even own a torque wrench. You can't fix stupid.

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I agree, BUT I don't think there are very many folks that own a 250lb torque wrench, unless they have a specific use for it. Just saying. Most folks that own a torque wrench usually settle for one that only goes to about 150lbs. I had to purchase the socket 2 1/2" AND the torque wrench. And I doubt I will ever use either for anything other than my Ryker. If I did not have those tools, I would definitely take my cycle back to the dealer and have them check the hub nuts for torque. Although, if they do not read these comments on the forum, they may not even realize the potential problem.