RT Hitch removal and belt adjustment
These are questions that come up all the time so I decided that since I needed to make some adjustments on my belt I would go ahead and take some pics and add captions to answer some of the questions that have been posted here many times before. As they say a picture is worth a 1000 words so I hope this will cut down on my typing. :doorag:
You start by removing the through bolt that holds the hitch on.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...8&d=1333639436
This bolt should slide right out after the nut is removed from the right side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...9&d=1333639437
Now you're ready to remove the hitch after the bolt is removed.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...0&d=1333639439
The hitch is going to be on there pretty tight so grab the ball and move it side to side till it breaks loose. Then pull it straight back being careful of the brake line and sensor wire on the right side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...1&d=1333639440
This shouldn't take much more than 5 min. to get the hitch off. Took me a little longer as you can tell by the time stamp.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...2&d=1333639442
The last time my dealer did a tire change and belt tension check I got out my Krikit and marked it where he had it set with the sonic gauge. This has worked well for me for many years and you can pick these up for about $20 bucks.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...3&d=1333639443
When the Spyder is on the ground go ahead and loosen the axle nut. When you have the Spyder in the air you can start making adjustments. As you can see from the picture I have the belt just off of the sprocket flange about 1-2mm. This can be a fight some times and you're better off making small adjustments to start with as it doesn't take much to move the belt.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...4&d=1333639444
After I get the belt where I like it I check the tension while it's on the ground it should be a little more when it's on the ground because the swingarm is now more inline with the counter sprocket.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...6&d=1333639447
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...7&d=1333639449
I don't know how many times I've been asked about removing the hitch bolt from folks that thought it was the axle. This picture is just to show you that the axle is under the hitch and removing the hitch bolt has no effect on the belt tension.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...8&d=1333639450
Just one more reason WE LOVE this SITE so dang much, THANK YOU for Share'n Lamont
I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum:firstplace: has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful :bowdown: Spyder Owners:clap: Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses :yes: Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT:2thumbs:
Belt Tension Limits per Midwest Manuals pg 483
According to Service Bulletin 2010-6 the "new" factory tension is supposed to be:
450 +/- 150 Newtons
(or a minimum of 300 to a maximum of 600 Newtons)
Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds
Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
300 Newtons = 67.4 lbs
450 Newtons = 101.2 lbs
600 Newtons = 134.9 lbs
However, this does not mean what you should be getting. It simply shows the difference between the numbers the dealer uses versus what may seem an easy mathematical "conversion".
WHY BRP chose to measure the belt tension with an expensive piece of equipment is up for grabs! After all, tension is tension. They just chose an expensive way of measuring it.
IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which logically may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means. Conversely, if one were to tension a belt to "x" pounds it would also have a reflective newton value.
***Thanks Scotty for the updated limits! I was not aware of them when I made my original post.
Under Tensioned Belt, Poor Alignment & Rear Wheel Torque
My belt was "flapping" and made for a terrible ride due to the vibration it put off. Too much "flap" under a load can cause the belt to skip over either the drive gear or wheel sprocket. Either could cause premature wear and failure.
A properly tensioned belt should be SMOOTH and not flapping. :thumbup:
However, there is a line between proper and over tension do not cross it or unseen wear may result. ;)
I found my belt was so under tensioned it gave me no reading on the Krikit (<100 lbs) and failed to have any clearance from the rear wheel sprocket and the rear wheel axle nut was not torqued to spec!
Seems we Owners are going to have to keep a sharp eye on our "professional mechanics"!
I tried alignment w/tire off ground
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StanProff
Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.
Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.
nojoke I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all:cus: broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete