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Was installing a digital clock and voltmeter. While looking for a switched circuit to tie the clock with I found these just laying empty near the marker lights on the left side.
Everything is working, marker lights too, so anyone have an idea what the two leads might go to?
they are for the Passenger Seat Ejector
just kidding, i don't know, if you told us the year and model of your Spyder that might help.
Cruzr Joe
If you tie the clock to a switched circuit I think you're going to have to reset the clock each time you turn on the ignition switch.
Cruzer Joe,
You're right. I have a 2016 RTL.
JayBros,
The clock is tied directly to the battery with one wire to keep the clock running while turned off and to a switched circuit to see the clock while the bike is turned on.
Thank you. Learned something new!
Can't tell just what wires you found there, but I do know that the factory wired the later models for fog lights and a few other items, even if those items are not installed from the factory. The same wiring harness is used for those supplied with fog lights and those that come from the factory without them. The wires you see that are not in use are probably some of those wires for accessories not installed at the factory.
If you get the right accessories, you can often just add the fog lights, etc, by just plugging into the original factory harness and adding a switch.
This usually holds true in cars, trucks, and motorcycles of all kinds. The factory has one wiring harness and it goes in all the similar models. If the model truck you buy is a two wheel drive, you will still find the wires where the 4 wheel drive dash switches would have plugged in behind some blank on the dash. The fuse slots for all the things the vehicle did not come stock with are still there in the factory fuse boxes. Less expensive for them to have a few unused wires than to go through the hassle of having 10 different wiring harnesses for the same vehicles that are factory equipped differently.
Dan, Can you tell me what brand gauges you selected and where you got them. I'm considering doing the same thing to my and my wife's RTs. Tips on wiring would be very helpful as well. I'm a reasonably good DIY person but not a genius. Thanks, from San Antonio.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanY
Arion,
I certainly plan to post my how-to along with pics as soon as the project is completed. I have a 2016 RTL and the factory gauge plugs are different than any on the forum I could find on their "how I did it" posts and videos with older model bikes so I just avoided the OEM plugs altogether. I made a harness that can easily be removed later if needed and return back to factory OEM.
As to what type of gauges, I ended up buying the MotorMeter Racing 52"" digital clock and voltmeter on Amazon. The ProSport gauges were my original option but both gauges were DOA so I shied away from those. I wanted the blue digital style but the only digital clocks I was able to find were 24 hr readouts rather than my preference for 12 hr. It was a small tradeoff for the digital readout.
I am sure there are other gauges that can be found on ebay. I just haven't done much on ebay in years.
Gwolf,
I already have fog lights and are functioning properly. That was why it seemed strange to me.
I will guess since they are close to the fog lights. It is for models made for other other parts of the planet outside of north america. The lighting requirements for low beam are different. So instead of fog lights. They have low beam lights in that location instead. Takes a different bulb and a different plug to fit it. What is unusual, in your case, is that the plug terminals are bare. Normally in a female connector housing. In the ones that I have seen anyway.
I will just tape them for now unless I find a spot they were supposed to go. Yes, bare wire terminals like that seem somewhat odd.
I was wondering if it was for a pigtail to the horn, but truly do not know. Yes, very strange the connector housing has been removed..
From what I see the first thing is the plug housing the wires are supposed to be inserted into is missing. Just exactly where are these wires? Give us a pic from farther away. That'll help to figure them out. Those green things are rubber or plastic boots that go into the plug housing to make it waterproof. Check the wires with a voltmeter and see if one of them, probably the red one, is hot all the time or only when the ignition is on. What exactly are the colors of the wires, main color plus stripe?Quote:
Originally Posted by DanY
I also just installed a clock on the left side and a volt meter on the right. I bought GlowShift gauges from Amazon. Easy to install and can change colors easily just pushing a button on the face. I left the orange wire disconnected as that dims the gauges whenever the headlights are on and I rarely ride at night anyway. I also just bought heated jacket liner and heated pants liner. I ride with S.C.R.C. and we're supposed to go out riding this coming Sunday over into Missouri. I don't like being cold but I've just gotta get some wind therapy.:2thumbs:
. These two terminal wires are on the left side but do not have a similar terminal on the right side
Seeing this newer photo, I want to revise my first thought that it was for the horn. With the new photo, I suspect those are the two wires that are utilized for the frunks interior light. Not sure why there is no mating connector. Does your frunk light work? Requires key on or be in that shutdown mode until headlights go off, and the frunk lid must be open signalling the small microswitch on the opposite side.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanY
No time to photo mine at the moment, but when I installed two oem frunk lights into the trunk on our 14 RTS, I fabricated a splitter / pigtail I ran to the rear trunk. That location you show is exactly where my splitter ties in. Being two wires, that is power and ground for the light itself I believe.
If those wires have power with key on, which I doubt, then you have the chassis side of the circuit.
My guess is someone took the chassis side of the circuit for powering something else, and as a guess, your frunk lid switch is positioned to allow whatever circuit that is to remain powered while you have key on.
PMK,
I believe you're right ! Yes, it does have power and remains on after the bike is turned off but not after the headlights go out. I can't find the other connector which probably has both connectors together with no terminal wires running out the chassis side
I'm just going to use a replacement connector and insert the bare terminals into it and leave it be until another time. Not sure when i would ever need that light. I don't ride at night.
Based on what you described power wise after wringing out those wires, you have the chassis side of the connector.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanY
As a guess, someone removed the frunk and forgot to disconnect that connector. Likely the mating portion is stillon the end of the two wires coming from the frunk light. Should be in the general area, but may be buried behind the frunk when it was installed. At a minimum, insulate those wires to prevent shorting them out.
Yes, I did and thanks for the help.
I had no idea there was a frunk light. Still have no clue as to
its usefulness if it only stays on for 20 to 30 seconds anyway.
Ours has the frunk light also. I installed two BRP frunk lights in the trunk and wired to the same place as your missing connector. While slighly a pain, I simply unlatch the trunk and leave the key on when light is needed. The benefit of keeping the wiring like stock is there is no easy way to forget and leave a light on, killing the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanY
Normal operation is the light comes on when the frunk lid is open and the key is on. The ground side of the light goes to the microswitch just to the right of the lid latch. When the solenoid opener was available the microswitch took the ground side of the solenoid to ground when the lid was closed and the ground side of the light to ground when the lid is open. The solenoid opener was activated by pushing the park brake switch opposite of the park brake side. There were too many problems with people pushing the switch the wrong way so BRP decided since the electric solenoid opener was of limited value they deleted it. The harness is probably still all there up through 2019. The hot wire you have would have gone to both the solenoid and the frunk light.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanY
The light is on the front side of the frunk but is pretty puny so you haven't been missing much. Look here to see a real light for the frunk! https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=1#post1346972