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I installed a Lamonster cat delete pipe with an akrapovic muffler. It sounds great but I can’t seem to get the “donut” gasket to seat. I can feel the exhaust leaking at the donut gasket at idle. I have tried wiggling the cat-delete up and down but could not get a good seat. There is movement in the donut gasket. Any advice would be appreciated.
Are you talking about where the cat delete attaches to the header pipe,or where it attaches to the muffler?
Where the cat-delete attaches to the header pipe. There are 3 springs holding it in place there.
The springs should provide enough force to seal. Assuming you used a new donut gasket it maybe defective. It`s a hassle I know, but I would try another new donut. I had read past posts that talk about Honda having a better one that fits, but I do not know the part number. You can try doing a search to try and find that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikearmentano
Thanks
Found this for the donut "Honda GL1800 gasket is 18392-MAM-000"
I was under the impression the Honda gasket is for the earlier V twin Spyders, but could be wrong.
Consider trying this, unclamp the muffler end. Then with the bypass pipe cool, kind of orbitally wiggle the bypass pipe, trying to seat the gasket, this would be with the springs installed. The graphite gasket may better conform by doing this.
Not sure how you installed the springs. Hopefully you did not over stretch them to lessen their tension.
As a last resort, give a call to Lamonster. Maybe possibly when they formed the ball cup it was not formed completely. He is a great sourceof info and stands behind his products.
Thanks. I will try to orbitally rotate the cat- delete. Yesterday, I jacked up the spyder, disconnected the muffler clamp, and reconnected and tightened the clamp while applying upward pressure on the union at the muffler clamp. The symmetry around the donut gasket looked fine while lifted. The joint seemed tight as well but after I lowered it, the joint became asymmetrical again with the gap greater at the top and tighter at the bottom of the joint. Go figure! I will call Jacob at Lamonster today for advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Sunce the joint is spherical, it can be fine with uneven edge gap but obviously the spherical cup must seal against the gasket. Unless you are feeling or seeing exhaust leaks, it may be fine. With being there to actually see it, makes it tough to truly say.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikearmentano
some times a little high temp rtv will help. the gasket will take the shape and seat in after a while I would think. But ive used the rtv on my snowmobiles in the past.
I do feel the exhaust leaking slightly from the top of the joint. Is there any downside to using high temp RTV? I assume that it should be applied with 2 beads around the entire gasket on each side (cat-delete side and header side) is this right?
There is a gap between the donut gasket and the pipes. I can actually wobble the donut gasket a little. I guess I will ride it for a few hundred miles and see if it seats.
I had the same problem when I installed the cat-delete. With cold engine, I backed off the bolt that connects the header pipes to the exhaust pipe. I actually marked the clamp & pipe so I had a reference as to where it should be. I moved the pipe a little so the connection to the cat delete lined up perfectly. Before tightening the header/exhaust pipe bolt I made sure that connection also lined up as before. A bit of a balancing act between the two joints. Started engine & check for leaks at donut & header connection. All good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikearmentano
Treva, is the header pipe just in front of the cat-delete pipe? If so, I have 3 springs instead of a bolt and clamp. See attached pics.
I can see in those photos the donut gasket was not installed properly on the header pipe before installing the bypass. The donut must sit flush on the end of the header, then install the bypass to it. Since it has been clamped in this crooked position, it will no longer seal, you will need a new gasket.
I agree with James. The graphite donut gasket was not properly seated. It should be slid flat to the formed lip.
James may be correct that a new gasket is needed, however with care you might be able to gently work tne gasket into proper position without requiring replacement. It will simply depend on how deformed the edge that was not seated is altered from round.
As for other comments about Honda gaskets, I am not sure that fits a 1330 engined Spyder. As you read, other gladly offer advice trying to help, but unfortunately are not realizing they are on the previous models and the newer Spyders are different. Hence the comment about the bolted vs spring joint.
Thanks jcthorne!
Thanks PMK! I ordered the OEM gasket, part number 514054174. Other than there being a little extra noise, is it ok to ride the spyder with the leak? I am wondering if it could be harmful to the engine.
I would reseat the gasket before riding. The engine will survive fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikearmentano
The exhaust leak will eject hot exhaust gases while riding. I would fear heat damage to nearby items or painted surfaces, or worse yet a possible fire.
Reaeating the gasket is only a slight pain, and far less than the risk of riding with it unseated.
Personally, I believe once seated you might be good to go for a long time.
Mikearmentano, Yes, the pipe which connects to the cat-delete via the 3 springs. If you follow that pipe towards the engine you will find the clamp & bolt, which has a 13mm socket head. This clamp/bolt is just below the metal heat shield covering the header pipes/exhaust pipe connection [ the 3 pipes which exit the engine & converge into one ]. If you still have the same problem after fitting the new gasket, you may have to try my suggestion. Good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikearmentano
Thanks Treva