I am going to get the ECU flashed on my 2020 RTL, and the instructions for ECU removal were for an older style RT.
Can anyone tell me if the ECU is in the same place, and if it comes out the same way?
Thanks in advance.
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I am going to get the ECU flashed on my 2020 RTL, and the instructions for ECU removal were for an older style RT.
Can anyone tell me if the ECU is in the same place, and if it comes out the same way?
Thanks in advance.
From looking at cheapcycle parts schematic it appears to me it's in the same location, near the horn assembly. Left front above and just to the rear of the left front tire. Price kinda confirms the part, $1k. Just took mine out and Wict-it's instructions for removal are very helpful. This is for the 1330.
https://bc5ea35f-0a76-4e03-8a52-544a...9d11136ca1.pdf
I have another question, for those of you who have gone witht he stage 2 flash, i see you need to use the cat deleat pipe. How much louder is that when you are crusing down the road? My wife I likes the fact that the bike is quite when running down the road now and she says she doesnt want to have to listent to a loud pipe all the time.
Removing the cat will increase the exhaust volume a bit. It isn't annoying but it is louder than stock.
From all I've read, it sounds like the RLS cat delete would be the quietest, especially with the included baffle installed. He has a sale going on now I believe..
get the rls cat delete i have it on both mine youll like it
If you don’t mind me asking:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatcycledaddy
Who are you looking to to reflash your PCM?
The ECU doesn't need removal on the newer 1330's. Give Monster Fuel Injection a call.
https://www.monsterfuelinjection.com
Monster fuelQuote:
Originally Posted by bikerchris1270
May want to look at the Power Vision 3. No ECU removal and can re-flash anytime between up to 4 maps, including OEM so you can back out to stock if needed.
Just shipped my ECU off to Wick-It. On the phone I was told the stage 2 flash will work well with any/or no modification. It is self adjusting kind of like the OEM set up. With OEM cat and muffler the exhaust note will be almost the same but engine noise will increase slightly. That's because they need to modify your intake cover by drilling two holes in it to allow more air inflow. Those ponies you add need more oxygen to perform because they really suck the air. The only drawback for me was that you can no longer lug the 1330 with the flash installed. You (must) keep the RPM's between 3500k and 4200k to make it safely perform. To me that means 6th gear is no longer useful unless I plan on doing 80 MPH during most of my cruising. Hard to believe but that's what I was told.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatcycledaddy
Wick-it uses flash that's provided by Monster Fuel Injection so you'll be good to go. If you went with stage 2 you would have to send them part of air box.
2 dogs that is not true you can ride as always have
That's what I thought. And I hope you're right, but why would they at Monster and at Wick-It both say the same thing? However, like you, I have my doubts. I'll just have to learn it after I get it by listening and feeling how it runs at all speeds in all gears. I was always under the impression the SE6 downshift was programmed into the ECU when it needed to. Apparently that's not part of the stage 1 &2 program. I guess I'll just have to wait and see. Thanks for the input.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboy
I had ask Monster Fuel the following question, "We do a lot of riding out west towing a camper trailer running all back roads, and a lot of times can only find 87 0ctane.
I was concerned with going with the stage 2 in that scenario.
What are your thoughts?"
Here is the responce I got.
Running 87 octane with either tune, Alot determines on how you drive. What rpm and gear you use. And what you don't do.
The extra torque of stage 2 would benefit with passenger and trailer.
If you are not a person that is technically inclined and aware of engine, then stage 1 might be better. But if you are mechanical understanding guy then stage 2 would be better for you.
It is also possible for you to get the handheld and gave the ability to switch tunes. I would give you standard stage 2 along with a detuned 87 octane stage 2.
The cost of handheld flasher is $350 usd. (On top of tune)
So this would be $850 usd. Convenient and adaptable. But more money then just $350 usd for stage 1.
Monster Fi
It sounds to me like this might be the way to go.
I did not ask about having to use a cat deleat pipe, but on their web page it says that should be used so I was assuming that would have to be done.
Have you considered the Power Vision 3? The ECU tune can be changed anytime with up to 4 stored in the PV3, including the OEM tune - if needed to return to stock.
Here's what I got from Wick-It regarding the same concern. When I chipped my Harley I carried a bottle of octane boost to supplement a tank full of gas until I could find a station that had 91. Wick-It said a good idea, but there's too many fake-a-loo octane boosts out there to choose from that DON"T really work. They recommended an additive called "Boostane" as the better choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatcycledaddy
https://www.google.com/search?q=boos...hrome&ie=UTF-8
Not really. I have heard nothing but positive reviews from Monster, and have heard a couple of bad things or problems with the power vision.Quote:
Originally Posted by RayBJ
After doing research:agree:. Monster/Wick-It have the best reviews regarding trouble free and consistent performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatcycledaddy
I have (3) tunes stored in my PV3. Takes about 10 minutes to flash them in. Other than the initial connection cord snafu, never an issue. If I were to ever sell my F3S and buy another, I'd flash my f3S back to stock, keep my PV3/spend $100 on a tune license and reuse for the next Spyder. It's also nice having one of the best Dyno Jet tuners 100 miles away :)