ONLY if you are still within the warranty period.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwolf
ONLY if you are still within the warranty period.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwolf
I wonder about this. Especially with the 1330 motors. Sometimes the bean counters override the engineers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwolf
The service interval on the 1330 is 9,300 miles. This, using the same motor oil that is recommended for the 998 models. From a fair amount of testing, we found that the BRP blended oil began to shear quite rapidly from 4,500 miles to 5,000 miles. It is also interesting that the service interval on the 998 is 4,500 miles. A prudent mileage given the testing figures.
From the independent oil analysis I've seen, the blended BRP oil service life runs about the same in the 1330 as it did in the 998. Which is not surprising. The results I've seen show the BRP blended oil shearing down to about a 20w oil between 5,000 & 5,500 miles. It does not appear to lose any more viscosity once it reaches the 20w point. But that means you're running a 20w, not a 40w as recommended, for about 4,000 miles with the recommended service interval. Is the 1330 fine with a 20w oil? If so, why recommend a 40w spec.?
There was a lot of pressure on BRP to extend the service interval with the new design. This extended service interval is prominently touted in the Spyder sales information.
Just interesting bits of information that really have no definitive answer that I know of to date.
this seams like the best plan my experience has been that syn oil is almost to good and won't let enough wear for break in of rings ,the ryker not sharing oil with a tranny and wet clutch will be easier on oil but of course the length of miles per start is what really determines the break down of oil , not for a real question that I was ask when I was talking up amsoil. Show me a picture of an amsoil refinery I don't know weather they do or don't but the point is that many oils are just a labelQuote:
Originally Posted by KC61
I don't know about just a label. I can tell you from real world riding and oil analysis that the BRP blend oil loses viscosity pretty fast in the 998. Mobil 1 10W40 was at 8,600 when I had it analyzed and showed loss of viscosity. The results with Amsoil at 9,666 miles showed no loss of viscosity and a recommendation to try running the oil to 12,000 miles on the next change. To be honest I was quite surprised the Amsoil did much better than the Mobil 1. 2016 F3L using Blackstone labs. Maybe I'll try the Spectro next.Quote:
Originally Posted by r1100rider
You are right. There is no Amsoil refinery. Nor is there a Ford, Chevy Toyota or BRP refinery. Refineries are like steel mills. They produce the basic products that customers ask for. From cheap steel to very high quality, expensive products. Sometimes all you need is cheap steel to get the job done. The problem comes when you use cheap steel when a higher quality is needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by r1100rider
Refineries make the base product. Individual suppliers like Castrol, Penzoil, Amsoil, etc., using the various quality and grades of the base oil they choose, make alterations to get the final product. Just like Chevy may take a plate of steel and make a fender out of it. And another company will take that same plate of steel and make something completely different with it.
I've been using AMSOIL for 20 years now. 20k interval in my cars and trucks. 10k or once per year in everything else, bikes, trikes, lawn, garden and tractor equipment. Heat is the biggest determent of oil. Oils main job is to remove heat from parts. That's why you should use a full synthetic oil on any air cooled engine. Fact is, jet engines will not work (for long) with dino oil. All jet and turbine engines require full synthetic oils.
I looked up Amsoil for these Spyders. Am I correct when I see a list price of $14 bucks a quart and we need 5 quarts?
Also where are you guys buying your Oil filters? And do I need an air filter as well?
I carry Amsoil and filter kits. I sell Amsoil at my actual dealer price. I don't make anything on the oil. So total cost varies by where you live and how much you get. But an average is $13.00 per quart delivered for 5 quarts and $11.00 per quart for 1 case (12 quarts). I do make money on the filter kits. But I try to price them fairly.Quote:
Originally Posted by acdcking12
A typical price for a full service oil and filter set is less than what you'll pay for a BRP package deal if you purchase 2 sets at a time. I figure, if you're going to use them anyway. Why not save the money? Amsoil has proven, over and over, in independent analysis, to be far superior to anything BRP offers.
You can see these items here on my Banner Ad Page. Not the only way to go, of course. But these are the products I use and have had tested. So I can recommend them with confidence.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rs-amp-Helmets
I may be switching to a 10w40 full synthetic next season as I already have numerous quarts on hand that I had purchased for my Honda Shadow and my Suzuki Dr650 before I sold them
I switched to full synthetic oil after my first oil change. I have been using the full synthetic oil ever since. I am using Valvoline 4T 10w -40 Full Synthetic. I have not had any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aufgeblassen47
Deanna
IMHO based on way too many years experience and no offence intended, dumb question, what possible reason would you not consider using full Synthetic. I can not think of any reason.
I have a habit of reading between the lines, sort of like thinking "outside the box".Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Therefore: Is BRP recommending a 40w oil because it needs a 40w oil, or could it possibly be that the engine really only needs a 20w oil, and BRP knows that their 40w breaks down to 20w, so that is what they recommend?
Expiring minds want to know.
.
Yes, pure synthetic, definitely.
No, on 9000 mile intervals.
I am going 6000 mile intervals on my Triumph Street Twin with pure synthetic, but at the same speed it's cruising about 3000 RPMs less than the Ryker.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nance-Schedule
Ryker oil, even pure synthetic, was dirty enough at 5000 miles.
Just my two cents
Motul was recommended to me for my Ducati, so that's what I've used. It's a synthetic with great reviews on youtube. When it's time, I'll use it.:2thumbs:
I m not switching to full synthetic. Hapy with the BRP synthetic blend. Change the oil once a year every 6000k.
There is always a debate on which oil is better, what viscosity is better, full or semi synthetic, etc. How many Spyders will get ridden enuff miles for any of that to come into play anyway. My bet would be ANY good oil, that meets the minimum specs, will carry the engine well in excess of 100,000 miles following the recommended change cycle.
All very helpful information. Enjoy your reading, but this post was started ......07/21/2019. .....:coffee:Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantera
These are our toys....and this is how we play . :ohyea:
Motoul 7100 is excellent oil. My Moto Guzzi 7II stipulated 10W60 and Motoul 7100 served very well, riding in temperatures up to 116 F (47C).Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy
It had a separate trans. The engine only held 2 liters.
Whether you purchase Amsoil from Ron for $11 a quart, Castrol from O'Reillys for $10 a quart ($10.99 not on sale?) or any other major brand that you prefer, pure synthetic is little, if any, difference in price over synthetic blend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Construction tech
Also, 10W-40 is only rated up to 104F
In the southwest USA, using 10W-50 is important for summer ambient. It performed well in my 2014 Honda CB1100, 2020 Ryker and now my 2022 Triumph.
I well remember Harley-Davidson dismissing pure synthetic, citing "bearing skate" as a concern...because H-D did not yet have their private label available.
If it is so slippery that a bearing won't turn, then how could a bearing develop flat spots?!? Just being sarcastic towards H-D, especially since they discontinued Sportster models that I liked.
May not be an issue for Spyders, but the Ryker, with CVT trans, is cruising at 6,000 to 7,000 RPMs.
First change went to my standard Rotella blue jug.
While I appreciate all the petroleum engineers on this site, I am keep with the MFG recommendations for my Ryker.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KnurledNut
I appreciate the comment but i dont buy oil by the quart… i buy the kit that BRP sells with filters and o-rings and i get a good discount since i m military in Canada where our climate is a little different than Nevada… this is what the BRP reccommends and happy with it��*♂️Quote:
Originally Posted by SportsterDoc
It still amazes me how tires and oil can get everyone twisted up in a ball like it dose, no matter how old the tread is!!:popcorn: