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lots of people have said have a cr cards width between drive belt
and sprocket flange. after my alignment it was that way for a week.
it is now an 1/8 inch away, and pretty much centered. dealer says its fine.
is it ok with the forum gurus ? :bowdown:
thank you in advance.
It better be ..........because mine has moved every time I've looked at ( which is every time I get off :roflblack: ) ....Mike :thumbup:
If you to really see something scary: have somebody back your bike up, while you watch the belt move around... :shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
You'll need to sit down for a little while; after you see it! nojoke
Your owners manual gives the specifications. For the 2013 RT, it was from 1-5mm. Yours is about 3mm now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joyce47
then dont look. thanks :yes:Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
maybe they need an outside flange, too :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
i thought these were built with perfection in mind.
like im gonna stick my head back there and let someone back
over me. too many people want to.
It is better to have it stay within spec's when rolling forward 1 to 5mm cause usually when rolling back it will walk to the outside. Where you have it now you may see part of the belt hang off the sproket when backing up....:dontknow:
It should never hang off the sprocket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Looks like the dealer wrench messed up yet another item. There is zero clearance between the belt and sprocket flange on my bike. I can't see the inboard edge of the belt to check for scrubbing, but I suspect that there is some wear.
that looks a might tight by jingosQuote:
Originally Posted by Stumpy6Guns
You hafta push fairly hard to get a credit card into the gap between the flange & belt on my 2013 RT, but it's seemingly within spec; & while the flange does look like it gets polished a little every now & then by the side of the belt, there is absolutely no wear showing on the side of the belt!! I reckon you'd be able to tell pdq if the belt was pushed up against the flange hard enough to create wear - & I wouldn't be all that sure it'd be the belt wearing first, either!! :shocked:
But as others have said, if you think it looks bad (either way) when you've stopped after riding it forwards, back up a bit & check it out then!! I reckon they all move while backing, & backing up just a little can make the best of alignments look impossibly badly off!! :yikes:
So basically, if the belt runs entirely on the pulley while the Spyder is going forwards, it's probably OK!! If you ever see part of the belt hanging off the pulley, even (or especially??) after backing up a bit, then you probably need to get the alignment checked. But apart from that, you really just need to Ride More, Worry Less!! :thumbup:
That's how mine looks but when I feel the inside edge of the belt it feels fine. No fraying or wear that I can tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpy6Guns
Mine is the same way after doing a rear tire change to a general altimax. No indication of wear on belt or sprocket.
Ideally, you're right. But from a practical standpoint I can't see that it makes any difference as long as the belt stays between the flange and outer edge while moving forward. A bike will typically move backwards what, about 1000 feet for every 100 miles of forward travel? I don't see how that little bit of reverse travel with the belt partially off the pulley can cause any real problem. JMHO! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
Is there any relationship between the belt gap and the alignment of the tire to the frame?
Here's why I ask - the shop manual front end alignment pretty much ignores the rear tire. The front wheels are aligned to the frame. My belt took 3/4 of a turn of the right screw just to get it off of the flange, and it needs a bit more to get it where it should be. This shifted the rear wheel's alignment to the right, inducing a slight vehicle pull to the left. I haven't experienced a problem, but it has to be there. The bike handles differently than before I worked on it.
If the belt is riding on the rear sprocket within spec, is the rear wheel aligned to the frame? I suspect not, since there are other variables in play.
This is why the laser alignment is better. All three wheels are in the proper relationship to each other, ensuring that the bike will track true. Ignoring the rear wheel and aligning to the frame almost guarantees an error in alignment, unless the belt tracking is a precise indicator of rear wheel alignment to the frame, which I strongly doubt.
Mine looked just like that after a tire change.
I was told it was fine and have put about 7,000 miles on the bike since then with no change. Still looks just like yours.
The belt alignment and tension is supposed to be correct before an alignment. That is what I was told anyway.
Since there are adjusters on both sides of the axle it is practically impossible to get the rear wheel 100% aligned to the frame. The reason for having the belt aligned and tensioned properly before doing a laser alignment is so that it does not get thrown out of whack if you get the belt aligned later. I checked my alignment a couple of times while on a long road trip when the rear wheel had to come off, it was off just a bit each time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpy6Guns
I have had my belt "centered" for some time just like yours. Since I have moved it into that position, I have experienced very little rumbling in that 70-74mph range. In fact, when the dealer changed out my tire earlier this spring, I told the service manager to adjust the tension, but leave the belt centered. The service manager said the belt was well within BRP's specs and left it as I had it.
Gunner
I set the tension and belt alignment with the rear wheel in the air, and it was perfect until I rode it about 100'. Now the belt is back against the flange. What did I do wrong?
If your tension is where you want it don't touch the left side, on the right adjuster if the end cap is loose you need to snug it up then adjust right pulling axle back about 1/4 turn road test and do it again if necessary. If that end cap isn't tight or snug the axle will move forward as you tighten the axle nut.
I'm thinking that smacking the end caps with a small (1lb) deadblow mallet several times during the tightening process would keep the wheel in place as well.
I have a 36mm crowfoot on order. My socket is just a tad shallow, and I don't get full engagement on the nut. It tends to hurt my body if it slips off while I am torquing that mother down!
Having a flange on the outside of the pulley would not be a good idea. The belt is not supposed to touch the inside flange. Same would be true for an outside flange. The inside flange is just a reference for adjustment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joyce47
The only way to align the rear wheel to the frame is if you are also able to move the engine. If you align the rear wheel to the frame it is guaranteed that the belt will not track correctly on the sprockets. You align the rear pulley to the front pulley, and the front wheels to the rear wheel. That is why the frame is completely ignored by the ROLO laser alignment system. Instead, that system aligns the front wheels to the rear wheels which is the only way to get correct alignment on the Spyder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpy6Guns
But some are still using the frame as reference and that is a big mistake.
I have found the best way to adjust the alignment on the rear wheel is to always adjust outward. In other words, I always make adjustments by tightening the adjusters. Never by loosening. First, I set my axle nut with a great deal of friction. Loose enough so the adjusters will move it. But tight enough so that there is no way it will move on its own.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpy6Guns
If I go to far (tightening an adjuster) then I will loosen that adjuster, smack the rear tire with a dead blow hammer until the axle moves forward taking up the slack on the adjuster and start over. I've had pretty good luck getting the belt adjusted correctly that way.
Of course you need to check belt tension often during the process. A properly aligned belt is no use if the tension is not also correct.
East Bay Service
Who provides the best service in the SF Bay Area? I need belt alignment for my 2016 RT.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't know much about dealers in Cali, but when I was traveling through a couple of years ago Elk Grove Powersports was really good to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by philsteinhauser