So spark plugs air filters engine oil and filter, final drive oil, gear box oil plus a long set of ball end hex wrenches for final cost me less than $60. If your able to do it yourself you can save a lot of money and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I had also bought this wrench https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-S...1837112&sr=8-1 to change the rear shock. That was quite easy with the wrench. I did all this over a period of a few days cause I'M not young any more.
Smart man! If one is good and confident with tools, it pays in many ways to DIY. We read way too many "I got it out of the shop and all hell broke loose" stories on this forum. I don't know how old you are, but I'm 83 and do all my own maintenance and accessory installing. Usually when my 10 year old great grandson is around so I can teach him the ropes.
I am only 67, a young man compared to you, congrats. Things where a lot more simple to work on years ago, weren't they?
Oh you know it kid! It was so nice to open the hood of a car and see the pavement on either side of the engine. Besides the engine and what's on it, the only things residing there were a radiator, battery, brake master cylinder, steering column and maybe an oil filter.
To me, doing my own maintenance is cathartic. When the weather is too ugly to ride I can stay in the garage and tinker. Raising the front of the Ryker enough to access the drain plugs will not be as straight forward as it was on my Two=wheel bikes but I think I have it figured out. I can raise the wheel with a scissor jack enough to place a 4x6 block under the tire and will have a stable work platform with good access. With hydraulic valve adjustment everything will be very simple. I am probably going to reduce my service interval to 5K rather than 6K because the math is easier.
Yes I agree these are way different than most bikes. The first time I do a job takes a little time, after it is done once it becomes more easy for me. But on some newer motorcycles you have to pull the gas tank and more just to change plugs.
Hardest part of working on a RT is undressing it!!:roflblack: You want to work on the back side, but you have to open the front side!!!But like you say after you do it a time or two, it's not so bad!!
You mention “final drive oil”, I’m not sure how the Ryker is set up, but what is that?
The rear of my ST is all sealed bearings, is the Ryker different?
Ryker has shaft drive instead of a belt like the Spyder.
would be interesting if your belt is still within the tolerance, mine should last significantly longer than planned .. (10.000 miles now)
It seems to me any decent cvt belt should last at least 24,000 miles, but I may be proved wrong. I might be taking a risk but I will take the chance.Quote:
Originally Posted by chris56
Hi RICZ good man well done and at 83 you are brilliant and it's good to pass on your knowledge best regards Nico 75
You can not stop growing older, but you can stop growing old. I ride with two clubs where everyone is younger than me, by a lot and when I am with them, I'm thinking I'm one of them. I also have a need to keep my wrenches active and I will soon be installing a sway bar and while it's up on the lift, a bump skid too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by poli
Ah, gotcha.