2012 rs
Help tried to do a home alignment with the tie rods now I'm in limp home mode any help would be appreciated local dealer is backed up for months
Printable View
2012 rs
Help tried to do a home alignment with the tie rods now I'm in limp home mode any help would be appreciated local dealer is backed up for months
If you spun up any of the tires while you had the ignition on while doing the alignment, or maybe even ran it in gear with the rear tire raised, then yep, you'll get those warnings because ALL three speed sensors weren't registering the same or nearly the same speed at the same time! :lecturef_smilie: . No biggie tho, just (carefully & gently ;) ) take it for a ryde, saaay, about 100 yds down the road & back, and if that was your problem, those warnings, codes, & limp home mode will reset & you'll be fine! :thumbup:
If that doesn't resolve your problem, then you've probably disturbed, disconnected, or broken one or more of the speed sensors or the notched index ring that they use to determine tire rotation speed found on each of the rims/hubs.... it could even be just that you've mis-placed or incorrectly installed any of the spacer washers used to keep the sensor at the correct 'flying height' above the index ring! These sort of problems can be a little harder to diagnose &/or remedy, but they still are usually resolved just by fixing/replacing the offending component & then ryding it for a bit, so they aren't really catastrophic - just a pain in the butt until you can get them sorted & get back to ryding! :rolleyes:
Good Luck! :cheers:
Not sure but on my rt which is different when I totally lifted my spyder on the jack and turned the key on while doing my swaybar and brakes it put it into limp. I drove it around the block and turned it off. Let sit for a minute and turned it back on and it went away. Did you turn it on while the rear wheel was off the ground?
Peter just beat me. Must have been typing while he posted
He's a fast, long winded bugga!!:thumbup:
Thanks gonna try in the am
The only thing I touched was the tie rods
Deleted
So now what
Did you touch the tie rods; spin any wheel, disc, or hub by hand, or drive the rear wheel with the engine; or do anything in your wheel alignment process with the ignition on? :dontknow: . What about doing anything with the engine running &/or it in gear? :dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by Supaholaya
Have you taken it on that (careful & gentle) ryde of, saaay, 100 yds or so yet? If not, then do so now. If so, then please tell us what happened?? :dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by Supaholaya
Failing all or any of that resolving your issues, then as mentioned here:
So you'll probably need to carefully check the speed sensors to make sure they're clean; located properly; spacers in the correct position; and that their wiring is patent & properly connected. You should also check those notched index rings on each wheel to make sure that they aren't bent, damaged, misplaced, or even just clogged with mud or grease or whatever. :lecturef_smilie:Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
And if you do or have done any or all of that, then please, come back here & tell us what you found, did, or what happened. :thumbup:
Over to you! :cheers:
Deleted
Like PMK said, you need to drive it for a few minutes. You don’t need to go fast. It needs to be driven “on the ground” not in the air. You only need to touch the wheels or rock the wheel while in the air when changing the tie rods and it causes the sensor to fault. Guaranteed you rocked the wheel or bumped the wheel with your back or belly it while rolling under the bike. It should reset its self if you drive it. Drive for 3-5 minutes. Turn off let it sit for a minute and turn back on and see if the check engine light goes off. The light will “not” go off while driving, it will only go off once you drive it to allow the censors to adjust and record , turn off and then go through the starting procedure (eco, foot on brake, start button, can am screen, gauges) It should unless you damaged a sensor.
And if that all don't work, a trip to the dealer or some one with Buds will probably be your next move! When I had my bike lined up the mechanic did set some thing right, I got maybe a half mile down the road and all the bells and whistles were going off, turned around, ten minutes latter back down the road happy as a clam!!! Good luck!!
It's been raining real hard soon as it stops gonna go thru those steps and it didn't do it right away like ten minutes into the ride
OK took it on slow ride and lights popped on about 20 or 30 yards into the ride I shut it down let everything reset and tried again and only got a lil further before lights came back on I'm gonna try and check sensors next
Deleted
Thanks guys still gotta check sensors
Not to stir anything up. But I would discourage anyone from doing their own, home grown front end alignment on a Spyder/Ryker. Because you run a great risk of making your alignment worse. I know there are those who say they've gotten good results from doing a non-laser alignment at home. I don't mean to be mean. But I have to admit a good deal of skepticism about this. I'd love to have them check their results with the ROLO Laser system.
Lamont and I spent a lot of time and effort. Meticulously measuring, checking and finely adjusting our alignments more than once. We tried several different, non-laser approaches, including more than 1 recommended by BRP. Plus ideas that we came up with along the way. None of them worked very well. The best we were able to do was get close. On most vehicles. close is good enough. But not with the Spyder. It's either spot on, or it's wrong. As far as I know, the ROLO laser alignment system, with a good tech, is the only way to get a Spyder/Ryker alignment right.
Whether or not I'm right in this. The fact remains that if your adjustments bring any sensor outside of its parameters. It's going to give the computer fits. And cannot be fixed without BUDS. I understand that it has not yet been determined if your sensors will reset or not. I hope that they will. But even then, you really don't know where you are without BUDS. If a sensor is close to the edge of it's assigned limit, and if things change over time, you may start throwing codes again at a later date.
I don't meant to discourage here. I'm giving you worst case scenario. But it is always good to be informed. I am all for doing your own work. I think it is generally the best way to go. But there are places it's best not to go. We each will decide for ourselves where to draw the line. Lamont and I thought it wouldn't be that hard to get an accurate alignment. We discovered that it was far from easy.
I understand that you are knee deep into this now. I wish you good luck and sincerely hope it works out well.
You've actually gotta ryde it a bit with all those lights/warnings etc on before shutting it down in order to get them to reset if they're going to - it's the ryding while the warnings are present that will (hopefully) eventually turn the wheels at the same speed enough to convince the computer that whatever transient error made it sense that your wheels were turning at different speeds etc has now be end resolved! :lecturef_smilie:Quote:
Originally Posted by Supaholaya
So with the lights & warnings etc actually on, ryde it (carefully & gently) at least 100 yards or so BEFORE shutting it down again! If you shut it down the moment the lights/warnings crop up again, that particular reset will never happen even if it could..... :sour:
But BajaRon does have a very good point! Maybe it's time to find someone to align it properly and sort out BUDS? :dontknow:
I'm in Philly all the can am shops are booked for months where can I find this rolo alignment in going to do like one of you said and start from the bars and work my way carefully out
Thanks for all of the support guys I'm overwhelmed feel like I'm chatting with brp you've built my confidence even with the bad news
I actually tried quite a few times sometimes I could get maybe half a mile before it tripped again
Netsley tire is not to far from you. They do excellent service. After the light comes on go for 10 minutes more while it’s on. You’re not going to hurt anything. I went about 8 miles and after I shut mine down for a minute and turned on it went away. Netsley tire has a great reputation and I bet they can align you. You might have to trailer to them.
Look at this place if its not to far "click: https://smithmarineusa.com/Dealer-Se...Spyder-Service
Is this a gud program to buy wanna buy buds
http://www.brpdiagnostics.com/canam-...-diagnostics/#
They are booked for the summer