Reset Brake Failure Warning Message??

Ok guys, so here's the challenge for the day......

I was sitting at a light two days ago, and I let up on the brake to drift a little forward and when I stepped back down on it to stop, the pedal went down with almost no pressure, I let up and stepped down again, and it had full pressure...... and the warning light came on and I have 'Brake Failure' scrolling on the screen.

I came home, turned it off and 3 hours later I went out to fire it up, still had the message there..... so tonight I went out, added a little brake fluid (it didn't really need any) I ran it around a little and it seems fine but I still have the message, so when I got back, I broke out the tools .... bled the brakes all around..... added more fluid,..... This did nothing...... :rolleyes:

So then I got the great idea of pulling all the fuses and cycling the key on....... in hopes of resetting something, that got me nowhere, so I disconnected the battery, and turned on the key trying to drain the power out of it........... guess what?

I still have the brake warning but now my clock is reset. :banghead:

Is there any way of resetting this warning light without having to take a 2 1/2 hour long trip to the dealer? :barf:



Any ideas? :dontknow:

You can't even bleed the brakes on this thing without hooking it up to the BUDS. You need to take it to the dealer.

I was afraid I was going to get that answer :banghead:

Does anyone know how to clear this fault message, I have had it twice, the first time it cleared itself, this time it is still there.

I have a ride of over 1400kms round trip to my nearest dealer, a long way to go just for an error message reset.

It appears to come on if I release the park brake and apply the foot brake gently immediately after.

I rang my "local" dealer but he can't help, other than the long ride.

Does anyone have a list of the Fault code meanings or know where I can find them. I ahve a fault code of OC1282 and wondered what it was for?

I live in Central Qld Australis so I am a long way from anywhere.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cbeaul

LPS FAULT CODE
(Braking sytem)
-Put ignition switch at OFF
-Wait 30 seconds.
-Turn ignition switch to ON
-Press firmly on brake pedal until you ear a clic from LPS switch or that you get 3500 kpa in system.
P.S.: You will first hear the brake light switch. Continue to put more pressure until you hear a second clic that will come from the LPS.

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Isn't that funny...... IT WORKED!
Got rid of my warning message last night, saved me a dealer trip!

Well, using the on/off and push the pedal trick, never helped.

BRP Aust have been on the phone everyday trying to help. :chat:

The last suggestion was that because I had adjusted the rod from the brake pedal to the master cylinder to adjust the brake pedal height, was to return the rod back to its original length. :2thumbs:

Guess what............problem solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No more warning message.

:clap::banghead::yes:

Well, I sorted the problem with the assistance of BRP Australia, when I bought my Spyder I talked to the dealer about adjusting the position of the brake pedal, which I did by altering the length of the linkage rod from the pedal to the master cylinder, after a week of discussions with BRP Australia (and they were great) they suggested that I return the pedal to its original postion and surprise, surprise no more error message, sounds stupid but it worked and has been ok for a few weeks now.

Veeery innnnteresting!

When I was doing the hand brake modification, that NEXUS devised, I of course read the Spyder shop manual :read: section about the braking system, before I started the project. I began to understand some of what has also been posted in this thread about how it all works.

Since I had to remove the whole brake pedal/foot peg assembly to drill out the mounting bosses I was afraid I might inadvertently trigger the LPS warning, :yikes: if I forgot and turned on the ignition while I had the LPS switch unplugged. To avoid that possible senior moment, I took the key out of the slot and put it on my workbench. :thumbup:

In the manual it says that the brake adjustment rod should be re-adjusted any time the brake pedal assembly is removed and then re-assembled. They have a special measuring fixture that has to be temporarily put in place of the whole master cylinder itself - what a hassle! I definitely didn't want to deal with that, and I don't have the measuring fixture anyway.

I decided that since there is not a lot of clearance (read slop) in any of the assembly mounting holes, my safest bet would be to not disturb the rod adjusting nuts (doesn't have to be loosened to remove the pedal assembly) and everything would go back in place where it was originally. It seems to have worked out OK that way. :yes:

BTW - In the manual it tells how to reset the error message, just as it has been described here in this thread. HOWEVER, it then goes on to say that it has to be hooked up to the BUDS, after that reset procedure, and something checked again. I don't remember exactly what it says to do then.

It is beginning to be a great pleasure now, when I have to work on one of my antique British bikes, after this sort of thing on my Spyder. Wow, on those I don't even have to remove any panels - it's all out there. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trikester

It is beginning to be a great pleasure now, when I have to work on one of my antique British bikes, after this sort of thing on my Spyder. Wow, on those I don't even have to remove any panels - it's all out there. :D

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I certainly agree...Whitworth tools and all!
-Scotty http://forum.thestompbox.net/images/smilies/1a_snow.gif

Quote:

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Originally Posted by matusky

Isn't that funny...... IT WORKED!
Got rid of my warning message last night, saved me a dealer trip!

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Same thing happened to me..The brake pressure went down, then back up,and the brake failure came on. After reading the reset fix, I topped my brake fluid off and tried the reset steps and It Worked! Brake failure light went away! i have a Rt 2011 SM5. Must be a common thing with the earlier year models. Im so glad I checked on here first for a fix. You guys are awesome! :bowdown:Saved me a trip to the dealer and God only knows what they would have told me to get my money.

I've been trying to get my brake failure warning to clear for about a month now, with no luck. The brakes feel great and always have. I repeatedly tried the reset procedure many times and even followed a video online of a guy resetting the warning step by step again no luck. My state inspection is due next month so I fear that I will have to take the Spyder to the dealer to get it reset. I hope they don't charge me too much for the service.

Haven’t been on for a long, long time due to wife’s illness. So, Spyder has been neglected just sitting in the garage. Well, being her primary caregiver for the last few years has the Doctor demanding I go do something away from the house for a couple of days for my health. Well, after ignoring his advise for too long, as I don’t like leaving her, I decided maybe a ride would be good. So, I got my 2008 washed and waxed and started her up and that anoying “Brake Failure” scrolling started. I had tried everythig 2 or 3 years ago when this started, but nothing would eliminate it. So, I decided to go on Spyder Lovers and see if anybody had come up with a fix for this. All I could find was this posted back in 2008...

LPS FAULT CODE
(Braking sytem)
-Put ignition switch at OFF
-Wait 30 seconds.
-Turn ignition switch to ON
-Press firmly on brake pedal until you ear a clic from LPS switch or that you get 3500 kpa in system.
P.S.: You will first hear the brake light switch. Continue to put more pressure until you hear a second clic that will come from the LPS.

It looked like a joke to me and figured somebody was laughing everytime they thought about posting this. But, I tried it anyway. And guess what? IT WORKED!

This is similar to post #5, but with a little more detail.

If you do not have any codes, but still have a brake warning, it is possible the low pressure switch has been activated. There are three switches in the brake circuit. 1. Brake light switch, 2. Hydraulic pressure switch, and 3. Low pressure switch (this is really a limit switch that just senses the pedal has traveled too far). This can be reset by the following procedure.


After a low pressure switch (LPS) problem has
been solved, it is necessary to clear the occurred
fault in the VCM as fo llows:
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Wait 30 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch ON.
rmr2011-086
www.green-manuals.com
4. Firmly press brake pedal until you hear a "click"
from the LPS sw itch or until braking pressure
reaches 3 500 kPa (508 PSI) .
NOTE: The 1st click will come from the brake light
switch. Continue to strongly press pedal to hear
a 2 nd click. This one will come from the low pressure
switch. You may not hear the click, just push the pedal real hard.
NOTE: Use B.U.D.S. to monitor brake pressure if
desired.
~
5. Turn ignition switch OFF.
6. Wait 30 seconds.
7. Turn ignition switch ON.
8. Validate fault was cleared.

I've tried that procedure several times. Each time I can hear the second click but the error remains. Maybe the hydraulic pressure switch has failed. If I have time this weekend I'm going to flush the brake fluid and try again to reset the error.

Success!! I finally got the brake failure warning to reset. I bled the brakes and it was clearly overdue. When I pressed on the brake pedal it took noticeably more effort to get the second switch to click during the reset procedure. When I turned the key back on I was thrilled to see the warning was gone. After seeing the brake failure warning for the past 2 months it was great to see it finally gone. While I had the warning, the brakes felt fine but they definitely feel better now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bwbarnes

Success!! I finally got the brake failure warning to reset. I bled the brakes and it was clearly overdue.

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Now you need to go to the dealer and have them finish the brake bleed process. It has to be done using BUDS. Not sure what it does but it may be to recalibrate everything so that the ABS and brake distribution system will work correctly. The BUDs procedure requirement is spelled out in the service manual.

You can bleed the brakes without buds you will just not bleed the ABS unit. But if there is no air in the ABS no problem.
If there is, you will have a soft peddle and brake faults as stated. You will need to see the dealer if that is the case.

You can also flush the system without BUDS but like above, you will not flush the ABS. ABS holds very little fluid anyway.

Bob

..."adjusting the position of the brake pedal, which I did by altering the length of the linkage rod from the pedal to the master cylinder,"...
Pictures, please? I have no idea what you are referring to. Thanks.

Thank You!
Worked perfectly ��

Whenever you check or top off your brake reservoir, the caps have to be put back on a certain way (proper facing direction) or it will also cause indications or brake problems.

Wow this one was started in 2008

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brutuss100

Whenever you check or top off your brake reservoir, the caps have to be put back on a certain way (proper facing direction) or it will also cause indications or brake problems.

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If you look down at the master cylinder reservoir 12 o'clock is dead ahead and the vent in the cap, the raised portion at the edge, should be at about 5:30. If it is facing forward, more in the direction of travel, fluid can leak out and eventually generate a warning.

This may help someone who can't get the scrolling error message to reset:

--Bleed all the brakes until you're satisfied there is no more air in them, then,
--There's a junction box (vehicle control module) in front of the block into which several hard brake lines merge. There's also a bleeder screw on top between the brake lines. If you remove enough tupperware, you'll be able to gain access to bleed this screw (it won't be easy!)
--Then try the press/hold process described above.

Worked for me!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bwbarnes

I've been trying to get my brake failure warning to clear for about a month now, with no luck. The brakes feel great and always have. I repeatedly tried the reset procedure many times and even followed a video online of a guy resetting the warning step by step again no luck. My state inspection is due next month so I fear that I will have to take the Spyder to the dealer to get it reset. I hope they don't charge me too much for the service.

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The fine folks at the Can am dealer in Winston=Salem, NC charged me $350 to "bleed the brakes"... Good luck - these folks are criminals