Shifting Issues With My 2014

Would not shift into Reverse, did not want to go into Forward gears either. Much tinkering with the buttons to get it moving. Had to drive in first gear all the way to the shop (five miles).

They said it was fine and they could not get it to do what I said it was doing. Hey--who am I to suggest something may have been wrong with my 2014????? After I spent over $500, it worked for me for the next couple days--then it would NOT go into gear, NO reverse, and was "wonky" on the downshifts. All this, and I spent $537 for that one. They replaced the oil "again (last was 2K miles ago)" as well as transmission filter and the extra oil that went with that.

Two weeks later--it's doing it again. I am parking it for the winter-- and will determine what to do in the spring. NOT A HAPPY CAMPER--HERE. :(:(

I am thinking it may be vacuum hose related????????????

Unfortunatly...I cannot go to another dealer--there are none. I would like to make a scene and get it fixed--regardless--but I cannot burn that bridge either. :bowdown:[/QUOTE]

Any suggestions????????????????????? Thanks in advance.

On Facebook, Lamonster Garage posted this about the drink-to-go cup holders, if you have one. Not sure if it's related but......

This is just a FYI about drink holders.
This one was mounted to the switch housing of a RT. As you can see the bolt is bent because of the weight of the bottle of water bouncing down the road on that little bitty bolt/screw.

When Jacob worked at a dealership he changed out lots of switch housings because the brass bushing would break the Circuit board and cause all sorts of issues. To replace the housing is over $400. If you have a drink holder like this you might want to check that out

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CentralCoastCA

On Facebook, Lamonster Garage posted this about the drink-to-go cup holders, if you have one. Not sure if it's related but......

This is just a FYI about drink holders.
This one was mounted to the switch housing of a RT. As you can see the bolt is bent because of the weight of the bottle of water bouncing down the road on that little bitty bolt/screw.

When Jacob worked at a dealership he changed out lots of switch housings because the brass bushing would break the Circuit board and cause all sorts of issues. To replace the housing is over $400. If you have a drink holder like this you might want to check that out

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

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No accessories on the handlebars or switch areas. Thanks

Need to put it on BUDS and figure out if its the control switch and wiring or in the hydraulic control module and then go from there.

An UPDATE:

Owner of the dealership called me back this AM. Told me to bring it in and they would hook it up to BUDS. The BUDS diagnosis indicated that the "reverse interlock actuator stuck to retracted position--Unable to Downshift 3 times in a row"

My Problem: When I took the 2014 in for the problem--I suggested they look at the shift actuator. They DID NOT. Instead they blew me off. Had this happen on my 2010 RTS, so I think I know what I was talking about.

The service manager also told the owner they checked it with BUDS. They did not--had they done so--they would have been directed to the shift actuator and fixed it. DUH!!

Of course, they have to order the shift actuator. Going to call me and set up a repair appt. when it comes in.

This used to be my favorite dealer in the world. I have spent around $200K with them--counting five spyders, five motorcycles, and all the service that went with it. I bought my most recent motorcycle last June (the Vulcan 900).

PS. Thanks for the replies and suggestions with my current issue. :bowdown:

Owner of the dealership called me back this AM. Told me to bring it in and they would hook it up to BUDS. The BUDS diagnosis indicated that the "reverse interlock actuator stuck to retracted position--Unable to Downshift 3 times in a row"
This sounds a lot like an issue I had with my 2013 RT-L - granted not a 2014, but it had the same symptoms. It was the shift solenoid that worked/didn't work whenever it felt like working or not. Maybe the "Reverse Interlock Actuator" is tied to the solenoid? Once it was replaced, problem solved.