Printable View
Hi, all. I am a first time spyder owner, but have ridden bikes since I was a teen. I was wondering if the rear sprocket in the picture needs adjusting for the belt to ride more centered? I was going to ride to the dealer that I bought it from, but it was there over 2 1/2 months with countless excuses for the delays when I had it there recently. Planning on riding this weekend, but didn't want to risk being stranded.
In simple words, the belt past the edge of the pulley is bad. Belt alignment needs to be accomplished.
Belts have a tendency to walk from side to side. PMK is correct. As long as the belt does not pass over the edge you're good to go. Be sure and check the position of the belt after you use reverse. Sometimes that will make the belt move to the other side of the sprocket. A quick check of belt tension is to use thumb and forefinger and twist the belt in the center of it's span one half turn. If it's too easy the belt is too lose, if you can't twist it, it's too tight.
:congrats::welcome:..and :agree: with 2dogs ……….. Look in your owners manual for the procedure to move the drive belt left or right ….1/4 turn should be enough ….. And check out BAJARON's web store ( his banner AD on the home page ) lots of great stuff and an in-expensive KritKit guage ( for measuring belt tension ) …..most folks here keep it lower than BRP spec. and find that they don't have Belt Vibes ( at least mine are gone )…...good luck …. Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dogs
To adjust the belt run-out loosen the Axel nut and faceing the rear of the tire turn the right adjustment screw clockwise 1/4 turn. DO Not touch the left adjustment. Then re-tighten the Axel nut. If your RT is 2014 or newer the torque is 160#.
Take a ride and then without backing up check the alingment. The closer you get to the inner pully flange the smaller your turn in on the adjustment screw. The best alingment would be the thickness of a credit card between flange and belt.
Has anyone installed the new belt Roller from Lamonster? I get some vibration around 65-70mph. Not too bad but wondering if anyone has installed just the new roller and noticed a difference. I have a 2018 RT, I’ve heard they’ve improved the stock belt tensioner (not confirmed) but I believe the roller is still tiny. My Spyder has been in the shop since Monday, I’d like to replace subpar stock parts before they fail to avoid these long downtime’s. Thank you.
I highly recommend NOT checking your belt tension using the 'Twist' method. It can be very, if not extremely, inaccurate while giving you a false sense of security. Though the drive belt tension on the Spyder is very forgiving. Getting it too tight will doom your bearings and create a potentially expensive repair bill.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dogs
Watch this 2.5 minute video. I sell the correct Krikit belt tension gauge for the Spyder belt, but that is not why I give this recommendation. In a side note, this demonstration video makes it seem that this gauge may be difficult to get an accurate reading. In reality, it is very easy to use and gives a very accurate, repeatable reading. If you just make adjustments to your belt to get it to ride correctly on the sprockets without checking tension (which must change as you adjust the belt) you may be creating another problem worse than the belt to sprocket adjustment.
I am in no way trying to discourage anyone from attempting this. This is a very do-able process. You just need to address all aspects to get it done correctly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z11wfc-0-hY
:roflblack: I don`t know but man that 1000 dollar measuring gage would look pretty snazzy on the wall above the tool bench , I can`t get near from all the other mess I have :yikes: ... ( just kidding you Baja ron , thanks for the link on the tutorial )
Hi Les, all good advise, except that he wants to move the belt in on the sprocket, so he would need to turn the right adjustment screw counter-clockwise.Quote:
Originally Posted by PW2013STL
You are completely correct. As you want to bring the right side of the tire inword to move the belt towards the pully flange.
So backing out the right adjuster will allow you to move the tire in on that side. I tap the back of the tire with a sledgehammer to move it before I tightened the Axel nut.
Thanks Mike for the correction!
Les
When making these adjustments does the rear wheel need to be off the ground ? Thanks guys
Dave
No. I do it with the Spyder on the ground.
Twisting the belt is only, and I repeat only, a cursory check. It is not an adjustment. And because the belt has only a short walking distance, the smallest adjustment can result in a huge change in the belt's position. Just simply loosing and retightening the axel nuts can cause the belt to change position. Adjusting the belt is done properly with the wheel off the ground. Use a gage to adjust the tension and when completed give it a test ride. Chances are the belt will not be in the same position on the sprocket in which you set it, but it should be close. If not, do it again until you get it where you want it. Believe me, after several hours of sitting on your butt straddling the rear tire you'll get better and better at adjusting the belt.